Cover+water pump question

[MoparMark91]

Hey guys so as u can see in my buils thread i got the cover and water pump assembled on block. I purchased the bolt kit from mancinis racing. When i went to put the 2 bolts located under the water pump in they barely grabbed and one didnt, they are 2 1/4 length so i decided to step them up to 2 1/2 if im correct i think they will be fine but wanted to get 2nd opinion

 

[RAT ROD AL]

Hey guys so as u can see in my buils thread i got the cover and water pump assembled on block. I purchased the bolt kit from mancinis racing. When i went to put the 2 bolts located under the water pump in they barely grabbed and one didnt, they are 2 1/4 length so i decided to step them up to 2 1/2 if im correct i think they will be fine but wanted to get 2nd opinion

I was told by a machinist that you should have as much thread holding (length ) as the diameter as the bolt. At least.

 

[kursplat]

as long as they don't bottom out before they're snugged up, your fine

 

[AJ/FormS]

And don't jam the long ones into the cylinder walls behind there, that would be a beotch.
but seriously, on an SBM, those two underneath are not that long. Pull the pump off and check the threads in the cover; maybe they are half stripped out, and in need of thread-repair.

 

[pishta]

I found threaded rod works the best for a few reasons: you can screw them in hand tight, then nut them and cut to fit with a zip wheel> you can use them to stack up the components (case, pump, alt bracket) to hold them on before you nut them> they are cheap: 1 30" rod will cut to every bolt needed. They are low grade but your not putting alot of torque on them. also youll never get one so stuck from rust that you strip the threads or break the bolt. They get nasty in old water only motors. Also you can seal the water jacket threads and not worry about leakers when you pull a part off. Only downside is when you pull the parts back off, youll have to pull them off the rods, or use jamb nut and unscrew the threaded rod like a bolt.

 

[MoparMark91]

Thank you guys for your help and input but i realized just now laying here in the middle of night lol, i might of messed up. I put thread sealant most of the bolts but i did not put thread sealant on the bolt that is behind the big water pump inlet/outlet. Is that bolt connected to water jacket? If so probably will need to pull water pump off and reinstall again. What bolts require sealant?

 

[kursplat]

...but i did not put thread sealant on the bolt that is behind the big water pump inlet/outlet. Is that bolt connected to water jacket?

i don't remember off hand, but one time i completely forgot to put that bolt in until everything else was done. i feel your pain if you need to pull it all off again

 

[sireland67]

Yes that one goes to water.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I don't use any sealant with the factory captive-washer bolts, except the four long bolts, one of which holds the powersteering bracket, cuz coolant tends to seep out there if you don't. And without sealant on the threads, coolant tends to creep past the threads and into the cavity from there to the outside edge of the cover, where the water cooks out and the glycol then remains and fills the cavity, dries up, and seizes the bolts in there; making it very difficult to remove the cover many years later. The rest of the bolts get anti-seize. Except IIRC the one bolt on the Drivers side halfway down; I think that one also goes into the jacket.
I run a 7pound cap for several reasons, one of which is because the reduced pressure causes waaaaaaaaay less problems in the long run. But our daytime temps here in Manitoba-summers seldom exceed the 90/92, so our cooling systems have it easy.

 

[69_340_GTS]

Not sure if it's dumb luck or what, but I never put any kind of sealant on those bolt threads and I've never had a leak. Exhaust studs yes. But not the water pump bolts!

 

[AJ/FormS]

Not sure if it's dumb luck or what, but I never put any kind of sealant on those bolt threads and I've never had a leak. Exhaust studs yes. But not the water pump bolts!

With the factory bolts, lots of times, perhaps most of the time, they don't leak; the captive washers seal pretty good. Except the one at the P/S bracket which has a kindof oval stamped hole. But you also cannot see if the glycol is plugging up the tubes, and/or corroding the shanks..

 

[gzig5]

I was told by a machinist that you should have as much thread holding (length ) as the diameter as the bolt. At least.

There are several variables that go into the decision such as material fastened, bolt grade, thread diameter, thread pitch, etc but a good rule of thumb is thread engagement should be 1.5x thread diameter. I usually shoot for 2x. Fine threads are stronger and can get away with less than coarse, if going into aluminum I go for 2x -3x or a steel insert, and on and on and on. One of the biggest variables is who is going to be the next monkey on the torque wrench and does he give a crap.

 

[kursplat]

One of the biggest variables is who is going to be the next monkey on the torque wrench and does he give a crap.

yup, don't know how many times i've had that old bolt going into an old hole (insert rude joke here) and you just know it's not going to hold the specified torque. sometimes you need to trust the torque wrench in your elbow