408 cooling issues

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famous bob said:
The reason it heats up on the road is the thin shroud . Been there done that !
Or an unsealed carb to scoop pan.
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Yep,
I didn't seal the scoop to the throttle body. I had it sealed when I had the supercharged engine but haven't gotten around to sealing it on this one. The engine is coming out this weekend (for the 3rd time) to fix a reoccurring main seal leak, maybe I'll just address it then.
 
superchargeddrt said:
Yep,
I didn't seal the scoop to the throttle body. I had it sealed when I had the supercharged engine but haven't gotten around to sealing it on this one. The engine is coming out this weekend (for the 3rd time) to fix a reoccurring main seal leak, maybe I'll just address it then.
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I feel ur pain , I have a rear main leak , but goiung to wait till winter, so I`ll have something to do. I hate being cooped up in cold weather .
 
famous bob said:
I feel ur pain , I have a rear main leak , but goiung to wait till winter, so I`ll have something to do. I hate being cooped up in cold weather .
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Yeah this has GOT to stop. 3rd time since I put in the new engine. I only have 700 miles on it. I bought one of the Wagner dual flow PCV valves. According to their testing it keeps the crankcase under vacuum 99% of the time. It's expensive $129.00 but if it saves me from ever replacing another rear main seal then I'm in. Here's the link in case you're interested.

Dual Flow Adjustable PCV Valve – M/E Wagner Performance Products
 
superchargeddrt said:
Yeah this has GOT to stop. 3rd time since I put in the new engine. I only have 700 miles on it. I bought one of the Wagner dual flow PCV valves. According to their testing it keeps the crankcase under vacuum 99% of the time. It's expensive $129.00 but if it saves me from ever replacing another rear main seal then I'm in. Here's the link in case you're interested.

Dual Flow Adjustable PCV Valve – M/E Wagner Performance Products
Click to expand...


Wow. I thought you had that leak licked. What a bummer.

I think I mentioned in another thread about how to fit the rear main seal so it doesn't have too much crush. When you take yours apart, are you going to look at how much crush is on that seal? I'd like to see.


Sorry for the thread hijack.
 
yellow rose said:
Wow. I thought you had that leak licked. What a bummer.

I think I mentioned in another thread about how to fit the rear main seal so it doesn't have too much crush. When you take yours apart, are you going to look at how much crush is on that seal? I'd like to see.


Sorry for the thread hijack.
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Yeah it was good until I took it on its first highway drive to Carlisle. I got about 100 miles out and I started noticing smoke coming out from under my car. Now I tried to reason to myself that the smoke was actually coming from my buddy Larry's '64 Barracuda (because I was following him and it does smoke) but no such luck, I passed Larry had them look and sure enough it was coming from under my car (not out of the exhaust). The first thing I thought was the connectors at my remote oil filter adapter were leaking but when we pulled over and looked it was coming from the center of the engine and leaking bad enough that I had it flat bedded 100 miles back home. I will take pictures of the seal. Do you have a link to your thread on how to fit the seal? I'll keep you posted. Sorry as well for hijacking the thread. We can move this conversation to the tread I started for it.

Well It Leaks AGAIN!
 
superchargeddrt said:
Yeah this has GOT to stop. 3rd time since I put in the new engine. I only have 700 miles on it. I bought one of the Wagner dual flow PCV valves. According to their testing it keeps the crankcase under vacuum 99% of the time. It's expensive $129.00 but if it saves me from ever replacing another rear main seal then I'm in. Here's the link in case you're interested.

Dual Flow Adjustable PCV Valve – M/E Wagner Performance Products
Click to expand...

I used to never have rear main seal problems on my two hemi`s, they were the hard side seal types. I am going to use those again next time ------????
 
sport74 said:
So an unsealed hood scoop allowing fresh air into the engine bay adds heat? I'm confused
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Will pressurize the engine compartment out on the hi way, the air pressure in there will fight incoming air thru the rad. .
Some people may get by w/ it , guess it depends on how much engine heat and rad. u have too .
I have never seen one that didn't at least benefit cooling , that is sealed .
 
sport74 said:
So an unsealed hood scoop allowing fresh air into the engine bay adds heat? I'm confused
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I've heard that also and it might be part of my problem. I'd like to make a pan that seals the carb to the scoop and see what happens.
 
ress
BrianT said:
I've heard that also and it might be part of my problem. I'd like to make a pan that seals the carb to the scoop and see what happens.
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IMG_0474 (1).JPG
 
That's more than likely the source of the problem. It didn't seem to run that hot with the carb... After going to fuel injection, I cut the hole in the hood for the scoop. That'll be the first thing I try.
 
Ok so this was what we came up with for sealing the hood to the carb/ throttle body when I had the supercharged engine. Just have to change the height of the foam under the scoop.
0_IMG_20160617_171915129-2672x2004.jpg
 
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famous bob said:
Cookie sheet ?
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No it was actually a 1/8" piece of steel.. It had to be stiff enough to not flex when the foam pushed on it. We tack welded a air cleaner base to the plate, painted the plate black and used chrome door edge guard on the edge to dress it up. Make the edge guard on the long side as it will shrink after it heats up.
 
Check out Demon 408's post on the kit he made for his carb to hood seal. Just finished mine and it's great. Search for "N96 One-of-None 1972 Demon Fresh-Air Hood".
 
So I finally got my issue resolved. The fan controller is flaking out.... I went with a cheaper one instead of the Dakota digital one that was highly recommended. It doesn't turn the single fan on anymore, however when I give the A/C signal and both fans turn on, if you remove the A/C signal the second fan turns off but the primary fan will stay on. I will be replacing it with a dual relay: primary controlled by the Fitech and secondary controlled by the A/C signal. Thanks for all the advice and help!
 
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