Trying to identify brakes

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billsdartgt

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The 69 Dart I bought a few months ago was originally a manual drum brake car all around, at some point it had the front swapped for a disk setup, don't like it much as they notched the lower control arm to give clearance to the brake hose, anyway here is a picture of some numbers on the caliper, haven't found anything from google, anybody able to tell what these are off of?

IMG_3872.JPG
 
caliper looks like a 73-74 B body, 2 pin
there is a caliper or two available with the correct hose location for A bodies...I dont remember but someone will...
had the exact same issue on initial build of my demon
I changed to slider calipers because I had them and the brackets available
 
caliper looks like a 73-74 B body, 2 pin
there is a caliper or two available with the correct hose location for A bodies...I dont remember but someone will...
had the exact same issue on initial build of my demon
I changed to slider calipers because I had them and the brackets available
Ya that's a 73 up B body pin type caliper.
If you stay with the pin type, you need 70-74 E body calipers. (70-72 B are the same, too)
If you have the calipers mounted towards the Front, the B & E body flex hoses work.
If you have calipers towards the Rear, i can't give you a hose recommendation, as i don't know, what they use for rear mounted calipers.
Good luck.
 
Ya that's a 73 up B body pin type caliper.
If you stay with the pin type, you need 70-74 E body calipers. (70-72 B are the same, too)
If you have the calipers mounted towards the Front, the B & E body flex hoses work.
If you have calipers towards the Rear, i can't give you a hose recommendation, as i don't know, what they use for rear mounted calipers.
Good luck.

The 69 Dart I bought a few months ago was originally a manual drum brake car all around, at some point it had the front swapped for a disk setup, don't like it much as they notched the lower control arm to give clearance to the brake hose, anyway here is a picture of some numbers on the caliper, haven't found anything from google, anybody able to tell what these are off of?

View attachment 1715388029

I just went thru this myself, , that is a 73/74 style caliper. Good news, the 71-72 B body pin types work as well, but have the hose mounted in a different location that allows it to clear. As for hoses, the B and E ones will still work, but ONLY with the 71/72 B body calipers. May have to swap the calipers from right to left, regardless of what they are showing on the box to get the banjo bolt to clear.
 
well all good info, the calipers are on the front of the rotor, a few more questions though, I'm new to the old Mopar scene, and haven't learned which is which with the A, B, C, E bodies just yet.

as another note, car has BBP all the way around.


if there is a different hose, what specific model car would I try and order from?
if there is a different caliper and hose, what specific model would I try and order from?

Both sides had a leak on the copper washers, I am rechecking everything right now from front to rear, need to change the routing on the rear line to the axel then I plan on bleeding the entire system, if I could do away with the hokey hose connection I would like to do it before the full system bleed

I would really like to have a set of 4 piston Wilwoods up front actually
 
well all good info, the calipers are on the front of the rotor, a few more questions though, I'm new to the old Mopar scene, and haven't learned which is which with the A, B, C, E bodies just yet.

as another note, car has BBP all the way around.


if there is a different hose, what specific model car would I try and order from?
if there is a different caliper and hose, what specific model would I try and order from?

Both sides had a leak on the copper washers, I am rechecking everything right now from front to rear, need to change the routing on the rear line to the axel then I plan on bleeding the entire system, if I could do away with the hokey hose connection I would like to do it before the full system bleed

I would really like to have a set of 4 piston Wilwoods up front actually

A bodies are the 64-76 Darts, Dusters, Scamps, Valiants etc. the Early 64-69 Barracuda's.
B Bodies are the Chargers, Road Runners, GTXs, Satellites, etc
E Bodies are the 70-74 Challengers and Barracuda's
C Bodies are the New Yorkers, the later Polaras, Furys, etc.


If you stay pin type caliper, I used the 71 Charger style and it worked. same with the hoses. though I would measure to make sue before buying hoses.

As for Wilwoods, they come usually with hoses and everything as one giant kit.
 
Wilwood makes nice kits, put their 4 piston caliper/disks on all 4 corners on my 66 mustang, that and a wilwood M/C and have nice full manual disk brakes.

Thanks for the info
 
You want to swap the spindles, and mount the calipers to the back if you want to run a sway bar on your 69 otherwise the calipers will hit the bar. If you do this and use slider type A body calipers that are available at rock auto, you will need a different brake hose. Dr diff has this hose. I have also been told that 69 Camaro front disc brake hoses are the correct length for a rear mounted 73-76 A body single piston caliper but have yet to verify this. FMJ slider caliper brackets will work, however FMJ calipers have the line fitting in the wrong spot for your application.
 
I would really like to have a set of 4 piston Wilwoods up front actually

Dr. Diff sells a kit with a caliper adapter that is made for your spindles and Wilwood calipers. He sells a complete kit (which you don't need) on his website. He also sells just the adapters, hardware and hoses on eBay. You would need to source the calipers. It only works with the 11.75" rotors, and at least 15" wheels, so if you have the 10.87" rotors, you'd need to get the bigger ones. He also says that the calipers have to be mounted to the rear on A-bodies. Do this by swapping spindles to the opposite sides.
Give him a call, and see if he won't sell you just want you need.
Maybe it's just me, but I'd be changing those lower control arms.
 
since I don't know for sure and don't want to assume, would the spindle also have come from the B body? I have ready about changes needed when doing the swap to disc such as the upper A arm to get the bigger ball joint, any way I can tell for sure what my whole assembly is?

I think I am gonna name the car "The Blue Mutt", its like Johnny Cash built this car, one piece at a time.
 
Dr. Diff sells a kit with a caliper adapter that is made for your spindles and Wilwood calipers. He sells a complete kit (which you don't need) on his website. He also sells just the adapters, hardware and hoses on eBay. You would need to source the calipers. It only works with the 11.75" rotors, and at least 15" wheels, so if you have the 10.87" rotors, you'd need to get the bigger ones. He also says that the calipers have to be mounted to the rear on A-bodies. Do this by swapping spindles to the opposite sides.
Give him a call, and see if he won't sell you just want you need.
Maybe it's just me, but I'd be changing those lower control arms.


Yeah, I don't like the wack job on the control arms, their on the list to be swapped at a later date, need to replace the strut rod bushings but for now I want to at least get the car back on the ground and drive it. Havent driven since the original test drive the day I bought it.
 
since I don't know for sure and don't want to assume, would the spindle also have come from the B body? I have ready about changes needed when doing the swap to disc such as the upper A arm to get the bigger ball joint, any way I can tell for sure what my whole assembly is?

I think I am gonna name the car "The Blue Mutt", its like Johnny Cash built this car, one piece at a time.

There's several pictures in this article that have measurements that will help you determine what you already have. To figure out your spindles, you may need to pull the rotors to measure the spindle diameter.
DISC-O-TECH: Stop on a dime from Mopar Action and Rick Ehrenberg
 
Thanks all, some good info and plenty of reading, gonna test out the brakes hopefully next weekend, if they work reasonably well will probably keep them, later on I think I will swap side and get the calipers towards the rear
 
front or rear mounted your current calipers wont fit without the...ahem... "clearancing".
 
If he's already got "B" body calipers, the most likely thing is that there are also 73 up B body spindles on the car.
Pictures of the spindles, without the caliper and rotor installed will tell, what you have here.
Most likely a disc swap from the donor car, whatever it may be.
 
well damn

You can keep everything you’ve got except for the calipers and hoses. Replace the calipers and hoses with a set intended for a ‘70-‘74 Challenger or a '71/'72 Plymouth Satellite and you should be fine. Those calipers have a larger diameter piston than the 73-75 A-body calipers did, and those brakes in good working order should stop your car quite well. There are some folks that like the pin style better, the sliding surface on the caliper brackets for the slider style calipers can get pitted and damaged. If that happens the calipers can hang up, and you either need new brackets or you repair the surfaces. With the pin style you just buy a new set of pins.

The caliper you need to work with your current pin style caliper brackets looks like this-
IMG_6835.jpeg


IMG_6836.jpeg


IMG_6837.jpeg


You can see the line is offset to the side instead of being right in the middle like the 73/74 B-body caliper. Hopefully these pictures can help you ID the calipers you need, we all know that just because you specified a certain part doesn't necessarily mean that's what'll be in the box.

As for the lower control arm, while I'm not a fan of that notch they cut the placement of the notch is in one of the least critical areas for load bearing on the LCA. It's ugly, but it shouldn't significantly weaken the arm. If you can weld, it would be a pretty simple repair to weld a patch back into that flange. As long as the rest of the control arm is in good shape that's what I'd do.
 
You can keep everything you’ve got except for the calipers and hoses. Replace the calipers and hoses with a set intended for a ‘70-‘74 Challenger or a '71/'72 Plymouth Satellite and you should be fine. Those calipers have a larger diameter piston than the 73-75 A-body calipers did, and those brakes in good working order should stop your car quite well. There are some folks that like the pin style better, the sliding surface on the caliper brackets for the slider style calipers can get pitted and damaged. If that happens the calipers can hang up, and you either need new brackets or you repair the surfaces. With the pin style you just buy a new set of pins.

The caliper you need to work with your current pin style caliper brackets looks like this-
View attachment 1715388161

View attachment 1715388162

View attachment 1715388160

You can see the line is offset to the side instead of being right in the middle like the 73/74 B-body caliper. Hopefully these pictures can help you ID the calipers you need, we all know that just because you specified a certain part doesn't necessarily mean that's what'll be in the box.

As for the lower control arm, while I'm not a fan of that notch they cut the placement of the notch is in one of the least critical areas for load bearing on the LCA. It's ugly, but it shouldn't significantly weaken the arm. If you can weld, it would be a pretty simple repair to weld a patch back into that flange. As long as the rest of the control arm is in good shape that's what I'd do.


It looks like if I could use the spindles I have new parts would be under 150, that's worthwhile. Would the new calipers work if I swapped sides to have the caliper mount to the rear?

As far as welding goes, I have a nice Miller 140 Autoset, but I am much better at rewelding, my grinding skills are perfect though.

That swap would be perfect for my new proclaimed Mutt theme, A-Body car with B and E body parts LOL
 
Would the new calipers work if I swapped sides to have the caliper mount to the rear?

Yes. The calipers are left and right, and you'll want to switch them side to side to keep the bleeder screws on the top.
Cardone 184065 & 184066 are $40.99 on Rock Auto. That includes core charge, but not shipping or tax. There's always a 5% discount code. Search this site or Google for it.
These calipers use screw in hoses, not the square end with the banjo bolt.
 
Every thing for those calipers is twice the price. here is what I would use. I have these left over from my Duster . I had 73 Road Runner hoses The caliper and hose bracket are mounted o the front of the spindle. So when you move them to the back the hose will fit on the rear mounted bracket on the rail. as stated above 67-72 cars the need to be mounted on the rear. Unless you are using the narrow 73 up or after market stabilizer bar. They are called stabilizer on the front anti sway on the rear. If your front sways you have problems.

These spindles and brakes are here and available but must be picked up with cash. hoses were new as were the calipers and bearings and joints. Two of the pictures are of when the car was white as it was coming apart for paint and the new motor.

They have a couple of car shows and 1/4 mile passes. Like new they would come with the uppers. You can have someone come and get them and have them ship them . I will not sell on this site at this time. I also have complete sets from 73 cars that are as they were removed for less money.

DSCN1673.jpg


7.jpg


8.jpg
 
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