What puller are you using on the crank damper?

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Krooser

Building Chinese Free Engines since 1959...
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I have a few pre-'09 engines i need to diassemble. I need to know what damper puller you guys are using...

I have used the one from O-Reilly's loaner program... no dice.
Then I bought one on Amazon that was guarateed to work... that didn't do it. I tried to modify the arms to give it more clearance around the damper sides... still no good.

My friend has a professionsl one he bought from the matco guy. I'm going to try that maybe tonite...

Pix would be great.
 
I sold many when I was a MAC dealer. It was a short legged puller with long rods for the forcing screw..
 
Lisle. Going on 30 years and works like day 1..... It all about the bolts, lubed threads, and a little patience. For extremely minimal use HF would get my money...


JW
 
This is designed for the new balancers. There are no bolt holes for the old pullers.

HDPP9750A.jpg
 
IMG_20190908_194935078.jpg
Well O'Reillys loaner did not work....nor did the one I bought on Amazon that supposed to be for the Hemi.

None of the new style worked.

So I dug deep in one of my tool chests and came up with the kind that's not supposed to work....and it worked!
 
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View attachment 1715391582 Well O'Reillys loaner did not work....nor did the one I bought on Amazon that supposed to be for the Hemi.

None of the new style worked.

So I dug deep in one of my tool chests and came up with the kind that's not supposed to work....and it worked!
Works as long as you don't pull the balancer apart.
 
Works as long as you don't pull the balancer apart.
Darn near 190K on it so that is a chance I can take.

I have the exact same puller O'Reilly loans out...and I had theirs, too. DID NOT WORK. These early danpers, at least the two truck ones and the one Durango one I have are different than the newer ones. The 2014 5.7 I have out of a Challenger is different and I think that the new style would work OK. But not on these old ones.

I spent about an hour grinding a relief in the puller arms on the one I bought in hope they would clear the wide part of the damper but that was a lost cause...

Anyway I finally got the engine disassembled... learned a bit as this was the first Gen III I've pulled apart. The amazing thing was the main bearings still look new... you may have seen what the rods looked like. Good cross hatch in the cylinders, too...likely due to the low tension rings. Cam looks good. Lifters, too.

I like the timing chain tensioner deal...

The goofy thing was I could not get the crank to turn even after I had all the main caps off... must have had a hydraulic lock going on with the oil on the bearings. Once I tapped the crank with a hammer it broke free and turned fairly EZ.

Now it's off to one of the shops I deal with... going to see if the crank can be saved. I want it turned down to 1.888 so I can use the Pankl rods I have in stock. This guy has done a few for me and always gets the work done on time and budget. Might have the block washed and mag'd, too.

Yeah, Yeah I know it's a nodular iron crank but that doesn't bother me. Never had any issues with those in the 351-C's I raced for years.
 
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Here's the puller I got from Amazon... identical to the one from O'Reilly's. NO soup for you!

gen III puller.jpg
 
I use a simple cheap steering wheel puller , bolts into the pulley holes , no arms to distort or screw up the damper ----
No holes in these new dampers. I tried the five different pullers I had handy until I remembered my stash of seldom used tools in one roll cab...that's why we never throw anything away!!!!

AND IT'S APART... and really looks good. The main bearings could be reused...I'm saving them in case I need a real cheap rebuild down the line.

While there was a big disaster inside that motor it all looks good... no sludge to speak of...washed up great with super clean. The cooling system is clean, too. I noticed that the coolant passages don't go very far down around the cylinders... it's like a hard filled block. Pretty strong IMHO.

I called my valve supplier... tried to order new stuff but the blanks are on order...60 days out for sure. That's OK. Going to send the cam out for a grind... looks good, too.

All in all I'm pleasantly surprised at this engine.
 
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No holes in these new dampers. I tried the five different pullers I had handy until I remembered my stash of seldom used tools in one roll cab...that's why we never throw anything away!!!!

AND IT'S APART... and really looks good. The main bearings could be reused...I'm saving them in case I need a real cheap rebuild down the line.

While there was a big disaster inside that motor it all looks good... no sludge to speak of...washed up great with super clean. The cooling system is clean, too. I noticed that the coolant passages don't go very far down around the cylinders... it's like a hard filled block. Pretty strong IMHO.

I called my valve supplier... tried to order new stuff but the blanks are on order...60 days out for sure. That's OK. Going to send the cam out for a grind... looks good, too.

All in all I'm pleasantly surprised at this engine.

How does one bolt the pulley on w/ no holes in it ??
 
The crank pulley and the dampener are one integrated unit. Uses a serpentine belt.
View attachment 1715392242
Exactly. No threaded holes for the puller to bolt to. You need a 3 jaw puller with short jaws to pull off the 3 webs on the balancer. The rods in the kit go in the crank bolt hole and push off the bottom of the drilled passage in the crank snout. Some cranks are drilled a few inches. You don't want to push against the front of the hole because it can damage the threads in the end of the crank. Proper tool, proper use!
 
Oh by the way, when you re-install the balancer, use a installer tool and not a hammer and a block of wood or worse yet, a impact wrench and the balancer bolt.
 
Oh by the way, when you re-install the balancer, use a installer tool and not a hammer and a block of wood or worse yet, a impact wrench and the balancer bolt.
I’ve used all the methods mentioned but by far the easiest is a little heat helps it slide completely on.
 
Oh by the way, when you re-install the balancer, use a installer tool and not a hammer and a block of wood or worse yet, a impact wrench and the balancer bolt.
Geez...I have a factory Miller 2X4 just for that purpose....
 
guys the picture above tells you the answer. invert the prongs they catch the dimples on the back side(69 340 gts #17 above) and the pully walks right off with a long rod. I made a long rod out of threaded rod and then used the bolt provided with the kit. you will damage the pully if you try to grab from the outside edge. I wish I had a picture of what I had for mine. I googled it and found I was doing it wrong.
 
guys the picture above tells you the answer. invert the prongs they catch the dimples on the back side(69 340 gts #17 above) and the pully walks right off with a long rod. I made a long rod out of threaded rod and then used the bolt provided with the kit. you will damage the pully if you try to grab from the outside edge. I wish I had a picture of what I had for mine. I googled it and found I was doing it wrong.
None of my pullers would grab the backside.... I'm not worried about wrecking a 13 year old pulley with almost 200,000 miles.

This deal was a real head scratcher. 60 years of engine work and I never had such grief.
 
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