Problem removing inner valve springs

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Dusten

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I will be breaking in a new cam (292\ .501) so I am trying to remove the inner valve spring per recommendation. So I bought the air hose that screws into the spark plug hole, and the proform rocker shaft mounted valve spring compressor for small block mopars. My air compressor pumps the cylinder up to about 80-90 psi and the valve spring compressor tool is easy to use. My problem is when I compress the spring the valve goes down with it and blows highly compressed air out the intake/exhaust port. How much psi do you need to hold the valve stem in place? 90 is the max my air compressor goes up to. I would think 80-90 psi would be enough. Is there something I am missing? Any other way to hold the valve stem in place when I compress the spring down. I really don't want to take the heads off to remove them. 340 with x heads.
 
You have to unlock the valve locks first. You do this by tapping on the valve spring retainer a few times with a small hammer. The retainer. Not the valve stem. Tapping the stem just locks the valve in harder. Tap the retainer and then try it again. Make sure the piston is at TDC on the cylinder you are on in case the valve falls.
 
Put a rope in the spark plug hole. And bring the piston up slowly. Now the valve won't fall in the hole.
 
It's hard to keep it at TDC it has to be perfect. Put the piston down and fill the cyl with air 90 PSI is great. Then tap the edge of the retainer till it pops loose, you will hear the difference. Now you can compress the spring. DON'T remove the air or the valve will fall into the cyl.
 
I will be breaking in a new cam (292\ .501) so I am trying to remove the inner valve spring per recommendation. So I bought the air hose that screws into the spark plug hole, and the proform rocker shaft mounted valve spring compressor for small block mopars. My air compressor pumps the cylinder up to about 80-90 psi and the valve spring compressor tool is easy to use. My problem is when I compress the spring the valve goes down with it and blows highly compressed air out the intake/exhaust port. How much psi do you need to hold the valve stem in place? 90 is the max my air compressor goes up to. I would think 80-90 psi would be enough. Is there something I am missing? Any other way to hold the valve stem in place when I compress the spring down. I really don't want to take the heads off to remove them. 340 with x heads.
Hello Dusten,
Just as info use a nylon hammer to tap with so as not to dammage any thing.
8 oz. Soft Face Hammer-57-594 - The Home Depot
Happy Mopar :)
Arron
 
I heard using a socket over the spring cap and a rap with a hammer works. I like the rope idea. Thats old school
 
I've always put rope in the cylinder and spun the crank until the piston stopped. No worries of losing the valve that way and you can hit the retainer as hard as needed without the valve moving.
 
And....Make sure you put rags in the holes so those little buggers don’t fall in your engine. A magnet helps to contain them. I like using a socket like Tooljunkie mentioned.
 
I've always put rope in the cylinder and spun the crank until the piston stopped. No worries of losing the valve that way and you can hit the retainer as hard as needed without the valve moving.
How long of a rope does it take?
 
THe rope does work fine, but yall are makin this so difficult. He HAS air. AIr works great as long as he brings the piston up to TDC on the cylinder he's working on. It's not hard at all.
 
Keep a real close eye on the valve keepers when you shock the retainer, they have been known to fly off in directions unknown, use the rope deal. It will take longer to do, but it is a much more positive way to NOT loose the valve.
 
THe rope does work fine, but yall are makin this so difficult. He HAS air. AIr works great as long as he brings the piston up to TDC on the cylinder he's working on. It's not hard at all.

Why does it matter top or bottom the rockers are off and there is no f!@#ing around just hook up the air, the piston will go down and there will be the same air pressure.
 
Why does it matter top or bottom the rockers are off and there is no f!@#ing around just hook up the air, the piston will go down and there will be the same air pressure.

SO he won't have to pull the head off to get a valve out that's dropped all the way down in the cylinder. If he turns each piston up to TDC as he's working on them, he needs no rope and really no air. BUt since he HAS the air, he may as well use it.
 
Just a side note- when you tap the retainer with the hammer, it should be on one side of it, not on all sides like using a socket. The idea is to '****' it slightly to one side to "break" any seal formed by the retainer/keeper. Now they can be removed easily.
 
I have had lots of engines turn over with air applied to 1 cylinder when I was doing valve seals. Ofcourse they had lots of miles. Kim

With the plugs still in? I'd have to see that with my own one good eye.
 
I have never once in my life ever seen shop air in ONE cylinder turn an entire engine.

When I was diagnosing a leaking exhaust valve in a Ford 352 engine I hit it with air and the engine turned.
The rope is soooo much safer, especially for someone not really familiar with doing it.
Couple of feet of 1/4 nylon rope works perfect.
I have done it just using the piston at TDC and no air or rope either one, but it was a little bit more of a pain in the backside because you have to keep the valve up when putting the springs back on.
Just a little pressure to one side on the stem helps, but the rope is fail proof.

If you want ship your eye over and I'll show it.:rofl:
 
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