Steve Agrella
Well-Known Member
Thinking of going this route if it will work, the QA1 is designed for 67=72 was wondering if anyone has adapted one to work on 74
I believe on there website it says you can use it, but you have to change over to the earlier idlers etc, pitman arm and so on.Thinking of going this route if it will work, the QA1 is designed for 67=72 was wondering if anyone has adapted one to work on 74
I just checked moogs website and the pitman arm and the idler armI got two Qa1 k members being used and one old CAP,,,,,in 71 dart...71 duster...and 71 Demon...I love all the extra room that it give me....
It will fit if you use the earlier engine mounts.....not sure why you would need to change all the other stuff...the steering mounts and idler arm mounts are the same.
Since when is round tubing weak. There is only tubing on the front mounting points. The back ones are very similar to stock.I don’t know why anyone would want to use this K. The mounting is what I feel is seriously lacking. The OE k has double wall precise holes with tapered washers. The QA1 has sloppy tubing and long bolts creating a cantilevered mount. How is it that Mopar make 100s of thousands of Ks that fit perfectly and QA1 has to use tubing for mounts. Seems sloppy and weak to me.
I cannot remember all the reasons. I just know it will work on the later years, you just have to change a couple things.that is correct...but if he takes his pitman arm and idler arm along with his drag link.....
why would that not work?
that is correct...but if he takes his pitman arm and idler arm along with his drag link.....
why would that not work?
I don’t know why anyone would want to use this K. The mounting is what I feel is seriously lacking. The OE k has double wall precise holes with tapered washers. The QA1 has sloppy tubing and long bolts creating a cantilevered mount. How is it that Mopar make 100s of thousands of Ks that fit perfectly and QA1 has to use tubing for mounts. Seems sloppy and weak to me.
I went with the QA1 K member and their upper and lower control arms, hope it all works out.
They’re not weak.
The way the QA1 K-frame is located isn’t as precise, that is true. Rather than just bolting it up like a stock K you do have to take care to make sure it’s centered because the K to frame mounts have more play. Or room for adjustment, depending on your point of view.
It can make for an extra step when you’re installing your engine or headers, or doing your final wheel alignment only to find you can’t get the numbers you want on one side because the K is shifted slightly to one side or the other. So it can add some extra drama to your build if you don’t get it centered the first time.
As for why, plenty of those 50-ish year old original K members aren’t straight anymore. Or have rusted, or have been damaged, bent or broken. And the QA1 does give some additional clearance vs. a stock K, which can be useful.
I run reinforced stock K’s on my cars, and I do like them once I’ve added some welds and gussets. A buddy of mine has a QA1 K though and it’s a quality part. It just have to make sure they’re centered up. If I needed a K-frame for some reason I’d buy a QA1 vs. trying to find an original and hoping I got one that wasn’t bent or damaged, and then doing all the work to clean it up, seam weld and gusset it.
It’ll work fine, you just have to pay attention to keeping it centered when you install it and be prepared to adjust the K-frame on its mounts if you do run into any clearance or alignment issues.
While I usually agree, mounting with long bolts which cantilever is not a strong mount.
In all my years, I have never seen an original K that didn’t fit.
This is my friends hemi ls car. It runs 9.20s at 147mph 1.26 60ftWhile I usually agree, mounting with long bolts which cantilever is not a strong mount.
In all my years, I have never seen an original K that didn’t fit.
Exactly , lots of newer car designs utilize this type of sub-frame attachment , however using much thinner steel than QA1. Some modern vehicles even have isolated rubber around the ferrule , Look at a modern LX rear sub frame.I used a machined washer from a late RAM P.S. rack mount hardware that fit the tube perfectly in the front and extra thick 5/8 washer on the rear K bolts and torqued to 135 ft.lbs. with upgraded , slightly longer grade 8 , large flange bolts. Really locked in K .The front end stiffness of my B body is noticeably more ridged.Very happy with the set up. Ill get some pics , also the steering link doesn't rub my oil pan any more.This is my friends hemi ls car. It runs 9.20s at 147mph 1.26 60ft
Look closely at the k member. Looks the same as qa1 to me.
View attachment 1715398381
I run 640 HP stroked 440 on a fiberglass front end all supported by a QA1 front end. Multiple hard landings and launches spanning several years. Still running strong no breakage. Low tens in 1/4 all day everyday.Thanks again for all of the input, you guys are so generous with your knowledge, I’ve learned a lot on here thank you
Hey @Jim Lusk, how many original K frames have you straightened?