oil pressure at startup and the fix

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When my car would start the oil pressure would take 5-8 seconds to turn out the dummy light. Many people told me this was the norm but, it seemed odd to me.

After doing a ton of research I saw that there was supposed to be a standpipe anti drainback on the oil filter housing and that the oil pressure relif valve could stick as well. I assumed someone removed the standpipe to make it easier to get the filer on/off.

Did my first change yesterday and turns out I was correct. Standpipe was misisng.

I had researched ahead and bought the wix 51806 filter with the internal standpipe. Did the change and fired it up. Near instant oil pressure with this and the magnum starter!

I'll end up returning the Mopar performance high oil pressure spring kit as I don't think I'll need it. Unless it's worth it for a bone stock engine.

Thanks to all who posted this info.
 
Hmm, that never affected mine.
Took 2 sec tops.
Remember that is at the filter outlet, so the engine see's it after that..you are seeing the oil sitting in the fliter

But if that fixed your issue, that's great news. I did run a high volume pump on mine and it was a new motor.
 
Edit :. I'm also running delo sk/sn 15w40 or rotella 15w40 , whatever I have on hand that I also use in my diesel rover. Live in northern California and it rarely gets below 55 here
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Hmm, that never affected mine.
Took 2 sec tops.
But if that fixed your issue, that's great news. I did run a high volume pump on mine and it was a new motor.
Click to expand...

It had a lowish quality filter on it as well , when I did the change it was totally empty from sitting. Could have also just been a crap filter
 
on a stock motor it's usually not a good idea to run a high pressure pump.
 
Naplm00 said:
It had a lowish quality filter on it as well , when I did the change it was totally empty from sitting. Could have also just been a crap filter
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yes. I don't know what brand filter you were running. If you do some Internet research, you'll see which brands to stay away from. Fram oil filters were among the very worst in filtration ability, check valve and bypass quality. Some say they've upped their game, but they lost me as a customer a long, long time ago. I run a full size wix 51515 on most everything(mopar) I can.
 
It's was from the previous owner, was a ph8a equivalent oreillys microgard black canister.

Drainback flap wasn't damaged

Wix 51515 is what I was going to put on it , it's the filter I use on my rovers. But after a ton of research I swapped over to the standpipe filter
 
It will also be a good idea to service the oil pressure relief valve to make sure it's not partially stuck and bleeding off pressure, as described in these two threads: thread 1, thread 2.
 
I was going to and do the high pressure spring but since the oil pressure is near instant now , should i bother?

to be clear ill be returning or selling the spring

@slantsixdan can you activate my slantsix forum id>?
 
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Usually no need to put in a higher-pressure spring — but do service that valve; they should get some attention every few decades whether they need it or not :)

I'm not a moderator or administrator on slantsix.org .
 
Naplm00 said:
When my car would start the oil pressure would take 5-8 seconds to turn out the dummy light. Many people told me this was the norm but, it seemed odd to me.

After doing a ton of research I saw that there was supposed to be a standpipe anti drainback on the oil filter housing and that the oil pressure relif valve could stick as well. I assumed someone removed the standpipe to make it easier to get the filer on/off.

Did my first change yesterday and turns out I was correct. Standpipe was misisng.

I had researched ahead and bought the wix 51806 filter with the internal standpipe. Did the change and fired it up. Near instant oil pressure with this and the magnum starter!

I'll end up returning the Mopar performance high oil pressure spring kit as I don't think I'll need it. Unless it's worth it for a bone stock engine.

Thanks to all who posted this info.
Click to expand...

I will take the oil pressure spring kit if you still have it and it is complete. PM me and let me know what you want for it.
 
Just put a mechanical gauge on it, wont see a dummy light turn on anymore. You can tell alot about a motor with a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
 
Slantsix64 said:
Just put a mechanical gauge on it, wont see a dummy light turn on anymore. You can tell alot about a motor with a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
Click to expand...
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I was going to suggest that too, to see what its really doing. Could have been a half faulty sending unit !!
 
slantsixdan said:
It will also be a good idea to service the oil pressure relief valve to make sure it's not partially stuck and bleeding off pressure, as described in these two threads: thread 1, thread 2.
Click to expand...

Dan, correct me if I am wrong, but didn't Chrysler remove the tube stand in later slant engines? I've noticed through the years some had them and some did not.
 
No, once the standpipe came along (first version in '62) Chrysler put the standpipe on every Slant-6. Aftermarket pumps have pretty much always come without the standpipe -- they just have a male/male thread adaptor to mount the filter.
 
slantsixdan said:
No, once the standpipe came along (first version in '62) Chrysler put the standpipe on every Slant-6. Aftermarket pumps have pretty much always come without the standpipe -- they just have a male/male thread adaptor to mount the filter.
Click to expand...

Maybe that's what I am thinking about. I knew somehow I had seen some missing.

Also I'll add this.......for "whatever" it might be worth. I've noticed a difference in the location of the oil pressure switch on some models. Some are mounted in the block, like my 64 and some I've seen screwed directly into the oil pump. The ones in the block could take a few more seconds to see pressure, I would think. Like I said.......for "whatever" that's worth. Probably nothing. lol
 
id really rather not put a gauge as the interior of the car is perfectly original and its for my girlfriend...a gauge really wouldn't do much for her. I will however hook one up to check and do a few drive arounds, i have a VDO and sender that will fit the stock hole.

I did also replace the idiot light sender when doing the tune up.

@RustyRatRod ill send you pm. The spring kit was $15 you can have it for that.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I will take the oil pressure spring kit if you still have it and it is complete. PM me and let me know what you want for it.
Click to expand...
Just an FYI, My "Killer6" had ~90psi. cold w/ 10W30 with that kit installed in a new pump......a bit much.....but I never tried shim washers to bring it down some....it also seemed to ruin senders & the anti drain-back rings in the filters. I installed a remote mount filter kit & mounted it where the coil used to be,....accessible thru the K-frame from underneath. Don't know how that would shake-out in an early-A..............
 
Put an accumulator on there and you'll have pressure as soon as turn the key, even before you crank the motor!
 
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