Engine paint removal

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Edsrt

Edsrt

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Just trying to clean up my block to repaint but the original black paint is super tough to take off. I just got the block back from the machine shop witch it was hot tanked so some of the paint is peeling but very thick. So I mask off the machined surfaces and try to wire brush and taking forever to make a dent. So I was wondering what other have done to prep a used block for paint.
 
Edsrt said:
Just trying to clean up my block to repaint but the original black paint is super tough to take off. I just got the block back from the machine shop witch it was hot tanked so some of the paint is peeling but very thick. So I mask off the machined surfaces and try to wire brush and taking forever to make a dent. So I was wondering what other have done to prep a used block for paint.
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Zip strip... It's a chemical stripper that you brush on and let sit for a bit, then it will peel the paint... However, you need to wash the block real good afterwards to get any of it off before priming and painting the block...

Or just prime and paint over the original paint... If it's stuck on that good, your new paint should stick to it and it won't peel later...
 
Paint over it if it is stuck on there that well. If you have brass freeze plugs, primer them. Put all the paint on thick.
 
You could also spray with oven cleaner, wrap block in saran wrap and let sit for a day or 2, then pressure wash....good.
 
It comes powder coated from the factory. PC'd before the machine work, so machined areas are bare. I've prepped, epoxy primed and painted over PC'd blocks in the past, and had the layers come off the PC finish in sheets. Now, I use chemical stripper; wire brush; pressure washer BEFORE hot tanking. Hot tanking afterwards pretty well guarantees you got it all off.
 
Find a machine shop that has one of those ovens that bake the paint and grease off. Then it gets blasted with steel shot and the block comes out looking like a new casting. Awesome setup but its hard to find a shop with it.
 
paint stripper let it sit, Then brake clean so it dry's. After it dries use different size wire wheels. using the whels after it dries stops that paint stripper from flying all ocer you and the shop. I do this on buttoned up motors,

Fresh builds should go in a oven dry up and burn everything off. Then thoroughly cleaned in a hot tank. Then rinsed with soap and water in a rinse tank.

This motor was cleaned while it was buttoned up with stripper, Painted and then I install all the core plugs. Same engine same car

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Oldmanmopar said:
paint stripper let it sit, Then brake clean so it dry's. After it dries use different size wire wheels. using the whels after it dries stops that paint stripper from flying all ocer you and the shop. I do this on buttoned up motors,

Fresh builds should go in a oven dry up and burn everything off. Then thoroughly cleaned in a hot tank. Then rinsed with soap and water in a rinse tank.

This motor was cleaned while it was buttoned up with stripper, Painted and then I install all the core plugs. Same engine same car

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The before picture looks pretty good. Are you sure you drive on Pennsylvania roads ?
Lol
 
I bought the car from an 81 year old man . It was an 11 sec drag car. it sat inside most of its life since new. I brought it home to use the car to put everything in the car from my orange Duster which got wrecked. But I found a very clean new bare shell since. The brown Duster had a 408 in it , That picture above is after I pulled and traded the 408 . That motor above is a 318 I put in with all the proper parts a 340 motor would have on. I put the motor in it and no one wanted the car the way it was with the BB disc brakes roll cage and 488 with a spool. It had so many holes drilled under the hood for race parts it looked like swiss cheese. So I decided to fix her up a tad and re pulled the 318 and painted it. One thing led to another and I thought I'll just clean and paint everything.

The car was almost totally rust free. Right front fender had Damage to be repaired but I did it right

A little elbow grease and they all look good. Total investment in the whole car so far is around 4K. That will include paint and Decals

This is the 408 in the car below when I bought it. And the low mile 318 I put in from 68 barracuda that we took a front clip from for a customers Fast back. Here is the thread for the brown Duster. I will sell the car when it is done. It would probably not bring what its worth because of the 318 904 in a 340 car. So it is far from numbers matching. But I found the Data plate.
Finally paint

I was going to take offers when it done. Still working on it. The elbow grease is getting low at my age. I Have a guy coming Sunday to make an offer as it sits.

You'll find out once you paint your motor you'll want to clean and paint everything.

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Hellcat Cuda said:
It comes powder coated from the factory. PC'd before the machine work, so machined areas are bare. I've prepped, epoxy primed and painted over PC'd blocks in the past, and had the layers come off the PC finish in sheets. Now, I use chemical stripper; wire brush; pressure washer BEFORE hot tanking. Hot tanking afterwards pretty well guarantees you got it all off.
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Thanks I was wondering if it was powdercoated the guy at the machine shop thought it may have been some kind of epoxy paint .some of the edges look like they would peel of but they don't. I may use stripper on a small area .
 
MoparMike1974 said:
Find a machine shop that has one of those ovens that bake the paint and grease off. Then it gets blasted with steel shot and the block comes out looking like a new casting. Awesome setup but its hard to find a shop with it.
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This IS a good method. However, (to the OP) be very careful who you trust your block to for this. I've seen cracked blocks because of guys who cool the block down too quickly.
 
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