Dana 60 under 73 swinger..need id

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So I'm thinking for the money it's going to cost me to get this to 5 on 4 and 1/2 I might as well go buy an exploder.8.8 axle

You're outta your mind if you think you can get a whole NUTHER rear end cheaper than a pair of axles and drums. NO way in hell would I get rid of that Dana. It's almost always cheaper and easier to use what you HAVE.
 
It sounds like the axle came in the car when he bought it, so it’s already been fitted. Why go thru and have to find a straight 8.8 and then deal with getting it all fitted when the axle he has will work just fine?

Exactly.
 
You're outta your mind if you think you can get a whole NUTHER rear end cheaper than a pair of axles and drums. NO way in hell would I get rid of that Dana. It's almost always cheaper and easier to use what you HAVE.
yep and he's got one of the better Limited slips in it too. That's like finding gold in the trunk of junkyard car!
 
yep and he's got one of the better Limited slips in it too. That's like finding gold in the trunk of junkyard car!

Yeah and people want him to get rid of it. That's like kickin a gal to the curb cause she swallows.
 
You're outta your mind if you think you can get a whole NUTHER rear end cheaper than a pair of axles and drums. NO way in hell would I get rid of that Dana. It's almost always cheaper and easier to use what you HAVE.
Yep. Call Cass at Dr. Diff and see what he can do for you.
 
It might be a little tricky to get the right axles because we really don't know what it is or what it came out of.
 
Why would you use this axle? Was it really cheap?
IF you plan to drag race it with the hopes of getting into the 10s, I could see the appeal. The Dana 60 is nearly indestructible in a light car BUT it is heavy and takes HP to spin. Same with a 727 VS a 904. I had a buddy with a 340/416 Challenger that chose a Dana 60 before stepping down to an 8 3/4" axle.
Yeah, you can change the axles, brakes, fit a drive shaft and make it work but you are getting away from a CHEAP build. The axles alone could run you $400 or more. You could get an Explorer 8.8 from a self serve yard on a half price special for well under $200. That gets you disc brakes and the right lug pattern.
Good luck.

Agree with your comparison of a 904 to a 727 and the parasitic loss. However you have it backward between the Dana 60 and the eight and three-quarter and other rear ends. The Dana 60 is more efficient and Weight Wise within 40 pounds or so of a fully loaded 8 and 3/4.
I've hauled women around that weigh more than the difference between a Dana 60 and and 8 and 3/4.
 
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Here's a positive axle I.D.Diff Wizard | RANDYS Worldwide
Being a Trac-Lok model, I would think it would be a 30 spline HD service model ordered for utility or government work. I'm thinking Mopar 8-3/4 or Dana 60 housing ends because of the oddball jeep axle bearings and housing ends and then drum or disc brakes of your choice.
 
Here's a positive axle I.D.Diff Wizard | RANDYS Worldwide
Being a Trac-Lok model, I would think it would be a 30 spline HD service model ordered for utility or government work. I'm thinking Mopar 8-3/4 or Dana 60 housing ends because of the oddball jeep axle bearings and housing ends and then drum or disc brakes of your choice.

That’s a good point, the housing ends may need to be swapped out as well to make everything work with the standard axles and brakes.

Even still, the cost of having new housing ends put on that Dana would still be less than trying to start all over again with an 8 3/4 or even an 8.8. The 8.8 will still need a driveshaft modification and new perches at the minimum, not to mention new brake lines etc for the disks. And if you use an 8.8 un-shortened you may need different wheels too because of the backspace requirements. Sure in a Duster you can run a full width 8.8, but like running a B-body 8 3/4 if you want to run wider tires you need a bunch more backspace.

There’s some money to be spent either way, and with the good Dana in hand already I’d just spend some money on it to make it right.
 
You will also need to know the offset of the flanges to line up with the brakes
 
Don't put any money or time into that dana.
I'll trade you an 8.8 out of a explorer for it.
Then we can both build what we want.
 
Don't put any money or time into that dana.
I'll trade you an 8.8 out of a explorer for it.
Then we can both build what we want.
I was wondering when someone was gonna make that offer!
 
Don't put any money or time into that dana.
I'll trade you an 8.8 out of a explorer for it.
Then we can both build what we want.
Damn, beat me to it, LOLOL! This is a thread I'm thankful for, though. Another option in the land of Dana and easier to handle than the full floating variety. I have an appointment with a junk wagoneer I need to go look at now.
 
Here's a positive axle I.D.Diff Wizard | RANDYS Worldwide
Being a Trac-Lok model, I would think it would be a 30 spline HD service model ordered for utility or government work. I'm thinking Mopar 8-3/4 or Dana 60 housing ends because of the oddball jeep axle bearings and housing ends and then drum or disc brakes of your choice.

It's not a trac-lok. It's a Dana Powerlock. Big difference.
 
Okay, thanks, I got lost in the terminology there for a moment...

Notice how his carrier has FOUR spider pinions on an "X" style cross shaft. VERY strong. That thing probably comes very close to a spool on dry pavement in a straight line launch. If I had that, wouldn't no amount of forum gurus talk me into pullin it out. lol
 
Notice how his carrier has FOUR spider pinions on an "X" style cross shaft. VERY strong. That thing probably comes very close to a spool on dry pavement in a straight line launch. If I had that, wouldn't no amount of forum gurus talk me into pullin it out. lol

Personally I would pull the axles an take them and the drums to a machine shop and see if they can drill them to 5 on 4 1/2.
If so you can run 5 or 6 inch deep back spacing ford rims.
 
There’s a hot rod article from 90 something titled “the flying anvil” about swapping a Dana for an 8-3/4 with the same gear ratio and drag testing before and after in a dart. The times were very close to the same, meaning that the extra weight of the Dana (unsprung weight at that, the worst kind!) was offset by the increased efficiency and reduced housing flex. It really doesn’t get any better when it comes to an axle for performance usage.
 
Ok more news on the Dana 60
Rear passenger wheel cylinder is fried..




It's really small for a Dana 60
3/4" bore wheel cylinders

Btw
27.75" equal length axles
55.5" wms

I know I need to replace it
but how to ID it for the part shopping is another question I tried that J truck approach that didn't work out
Also I believe they are 10 by 2" drums

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