Doug Thorley Headers with SB Trick Flow Heads

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Dennis Hilliard

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Durango co
I have put the newer Trick Flow heads on my 72 Duster 340 and the Dougs headers bang the torsion bar on the drivers side, 3 tubes hits drivers side, 1 tube on the pass side hits the torsion bar, one tube hits the man steering box.I am not going to blame the headers just yet, I am calling Trick Flow in the morning and ask them if the head is slightly wider. That is what it could be short of the headers being screwed up. I have had to raise the motor about 1/2" on both side to get things where it is drivable .This is just a warning for people who are thinking about using these heads. Something is not the norm here. If I had known this before hand I would have bought cheaper headers the bend up. The good old after market.
 
Had to do the same. 414/360 with borgeson box, trick flow heads, mity mounts, 1.14 bars. So far I've massaged 5 of 8 tubes and bent the drivers header with a pipe in the collector.

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I am running stock bars, also have the clearance issue with the drag link nut, and idler arm nut. I can't believe these cars would be that much different that some say they fit, no problems and then this. Should have bought the 250.00 headers. I am going to call Trick Flow In the morning, have you talked to them?
 
Dennis Hilliard said:
I am running stock bars, also have the clearance issue with the drag link nut, and idler arm nut. I can't believe these cars would be that much different that some say they fit, no problems and then this. Should have bought the 250.00 headers. I am going to call Trick Flow In the morning, have you talked to them?
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PM memeber lead69 and talk to him. He has Tf heads on his engine and it's in the car and running. I don't think he had to do anything special to get the headers on, but I wasn't there when he installed his engine.

I doubt it's the heads. TF spent a ton of time and money developing the head. It's highly unlikely they made the head outside of the blueprint.
 
How old are your engine and trans mounts? I have Doug's and they clear everything including PS and Z-bar (modified of course) but i have all new Poly mounts too. I have Speedpro/Procomp heads.
 
Dennis Hilliard said:
I have put the newer Trick Flow heads on my 72 Duster 340 and the Dougs headers bang the torsion bar on the drivers side, 3 tubes hits drivers side, 1 tube on the pass side hits the torsion bar, one tube hits the man steering box.I am not going to blame the headers just yet, I am calling Trick Flow in the morning and ask them if the head is slightly wider. That is what it could be short of the headers being screwed up. I have had to raise the motor about 1/2" on both side to get things where it is drivable .This is just a warning for people who are thinking about using these heads. Something is not the norm here. If I had known this before hand I would have bought cheaper headers the bend up. The good old after market.
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Did you have the headers installed in the car with factory heads and then switch over to trick flows?
 
Somethings going on here and I dont think its the heads. I had edlebrocks and trickflows and j heads and the headers were always in the same place. Now the cars themselves are a nightmare as far as production tolerances.

On my four speed duster with dougs headers and the correct tti z bar there was no room to spare but the z bar cleared.

Now my four speed dart with dougs headers and tti z bar would not work and I had to bend the z bar a fair amount but in both cases the headers were identical in relation to the steering box and t bars?,fun stuff.

Both cars had spool mount k frames and both cars were within a 1/16 of an inch of ttis measurements.If you have not checked those measurements that is the first thing that needs to be done.
http://www.ttiexhaust.com/PDF/II_TTI636A.pdf
 
lead69 said:
Somethings going on here and I dont think its the heads. I had edlebrocks and trickflows and j heads and the headers were always in the same place. Now the cars themselves are a nightmare as far as production tolerances.

On my four speed duster with dougs headers and the correct tti z bar there was no room to spare but the z bar cleared.

Now my four speed dart with dougs headers and tti z bar would not work and I had to bend the z bar a fair amount but in both cases the headers were identical in relation to the steering box and t bars?,fun stuff.

Both cars had spool mount k frames and both cars were within a 1/16 of an inch of ttis measurements.If you have not checked those measurements that is the first thing that needs to be done.
http://www.ttiexhaust.com/PDF/II_TTI636A.pdf
Click to expand...
Good info, I have new motor mounts, the trans mount is older but looks good. I may try and raise the rear of the trans a little.I put the headers on the same time I did heads so I have no reference to how they would fit a stock head. Man it hurts to have to bend a nice set of headers.
 
lead69 said:
Somethings going on here and I dont think its the heads. I had edlebrocks and trickflows and j heads and the headers were always in the same place. Now the cars themselves are a nightmare as far as production tolerances.

On my four speed duster with dougs headers and the correct tti z bar there was no room to spare but the z bar cleared.

Now my four speed dart with dougs headers and tti z bar would not work and I had to bend the z bar a fair amount but in both cases the headers were identical in relation to the steering box and t bars?,fun stuff.

Both cars had spool mount k frames and both cars were within a 1/16 of an inch of ttis measurements.If you have not checked those measurements that is the first thing that needs to be done.
http://www.ttiexhaust.com/PDF/II_TTI636A.pdf
Click to expand...
So if the measurements are off what do you do? I am hitting the bars on both sides so moving the motor from side to side is not going to work. I have raised the motor 1/2" already, that helped some but still hitting, Hard to believe these cars are that much different. Maybe mine is bent or something, I am about to give up here.
 
Dennis Hilliard said:
So if the measurements are off what do you do? I am hitting the bars on both sides so moving the motor from side to side is not going to work. I have raised the motor 1/2" already, that helped some but still hitting, Hard to believe these cars are that much different. Maybe mine is bent or something, I am about to give up here.
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The k frame or engine mounts have to be moved to get it right but with you hitting on both sides that's tough.Check for square as far as if the trans is is kicking off to one side more,I have seen that as well where the k frame and/or mounts were causing the engine and trans to not be square in the chassis.

If the engine measures correctly then with the car level check the transmission output shaft with an angle finder and I would not bring the trans any higher than 1.5 degrees down,that's the ideal spot,if its lower you can shim it up to that point.

Last (and hopefully this is not the case) I had a set of coated Doug's headers that were flat wrong.I had bought them on sale during the holidays and went to install them in the spring and various tubes hit in weird places.I went around with Doug's (its actually pertronix) for a while,they admitted that it happens and even knew of a bad batch going out at that time but they kept telling me to get a hold of some guy that was the "mopar guy".After a few weeks of this I gave up but that is another story.

I hate to say it mopar are one of the worst for header fitment and if you search you will see quite a few threads on this but the only thing they have in common is its a mopar lol,everyone seems like a different situation.If all this fails see if someone close to you has a set of headers (even wrecking yard crap) you can try out or try summits cheap headers then you will know for sure.
 
The single BEST thing all these moron header manufacturers could (if they had a brain the size of a pea) would be STOP building one piece headers.

It's 2020 and they STILL want to build those junk headers in one piece. And that includes the much lauded Dougs and TTI's. I've actually been on the phone more than once with TTI and BEGGED them to stop doing it. They just don't get it.

Each header should be 4 pieces. For example, the number 1 and 7 tubes should be singles, 3-5 should be a single set of pipes and then the collector should slip on. Same for the passenger side.

If they did that, they wouldn't make the IGNORANT compromises they do just to build an idiotic one piece header. It's just stupid.

For a long time I've been cutting the collectors off of headers and using slip on collectors. Then splitting the flanges.

Again, you won't convince the header manufacturers that's the correct way to do it. They are THAT stupid.

That would alleviate many ills using headers. Number one being not being bound to compromises built into one piece headers.
 
^^^^good Lord you must be doubling up on your meds these days...
Or I forgot to take mine? I gave you another agree...
 
It's a loop de loop...
They don't put anything else out so we have to buy what they have when we have to have headers. (Unless you make them yourself and I'm sure one day that will come for me)
So they think well they're selling well why change anything? It's not like we can hold out on them I mean I guess we could but we don't...
 
"I have an idea-errr... (And Sir Charles Emerson Winchester the third voice..)
One person yelling is one thing but two thousand plus members and Lord knows how many non-member a body people we could possibly promote within the Forum to kind of get a formal email out to maybe one of the Lesser companies who can listen and appreciate the call..??..
And remember I'm just an idea man not a bandwagon leader...
 
yellow rose said:
The single BEST thing all these moron header manufacturers could (if they had a brain the size of a pea) would be STOP building one piece headers.

It's 2020 and they STILL want to build those junk headers in one piece. And that includes the much lauded Dougs and TTI's. I've actually been on the phone more than once with TTI and BEGGED them to stop doing it. They just don't get it.

Each header should be 4 pieces. For example, the number 1 and 7 tubes should be singles, 3-5 should be a single set of pipes and then the collector should slip on. Same for the passenger side.

If they did that, they wouldn't make the IGNORANT compromises they do just to build an idiotic one piece header. It's just stupid.

For a long time I've been cutting the collectors off of headers and using slip on collectors. Then splitting the flanges.

Again, you won't convince the header manufacturers that's the correct way to do it. They are THAT stupid.

That would alleviate many ills using headers. Number one being not being bound to compromises built into one piece headers.
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TTI small block headers are two piece...
 
67autocross said:
TTI small block headers are two piece...
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They are junk if the collectors are welded on. They are. I was going to buy a set but I asked that they leave the collectors off and I'd buy slip ons. They wouldn't do it.

Their loss. I paid big money for a used set of Hookers I had to rehab and I'm glad I did it.

I'm not paying 800 bucks for headers AND cutting off collectors AND buying new collectors.
 
yellow rose said:
They are junk if the collectors are welded on. They are. I was going to buy a set but I asked that they leave the collectors off and I'd buy slip ons. They wouldn't do it.

Their loss. I paid big money for a used set of Hookers I had to rehab and I'm glad I did it.

I'm not paying 800 bucks for headers AND cutting off collectors AND buying new collectors.
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we are getting off base here.
 
Dennis Hilliard said:
we are getting off base here.
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Dennis Hilliard said:
we are getting off base here.
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I think post three kind of covered it? Putting small dents in these headers is a very commonplace in a body Mopars.
A few people get away with not denting them, but most don't.. Of course it always hurts worse when you paid more for the stuff...
A special message is there at 2 minutes and 10 seconds...
 
j par said:
I think post three kind of covered it? Putting small dents in these headers is a very commonplace in a body Mopars.
A few people get away with not denting them, but most don't.. Of course it always hurts worse when you paid more for the stuff...
A special message is there at 2 minutes and 10 seconds...
Click to expand...


I have installed a good number of TTI headers on 67-76 A bodies and the only set l had to dent was on a car with home made motor mounts. This includes different power steering boxes and torsion bars as large as 1.14”.
I used to think TTI was over priced until my friend had a custom set of stainless built for his car ...cost was more than the last engine I built.
 
67autocross said:
I have installed a good number of TTI headers on 67-76 A bodies and the only set l had to dent was on a car with home made motor mounts. This includes different power steering boxes and torsion bars as large as 1.14”.
I used to think TTI was over priced until my friend had a custom set of stainless built for his car ...cost was more than the last engine I built.
Click to expand...
With trick flow heads?..
 
I think the OP is probably going to work with what he has? I'm sure he's got a little coin tied up in these Doug's headers...
 
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