/6 running hot - what are your temperatures?

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I FOUND THE ISSUE!

so I was checking on a few things. Started with ignition advance. It's at 5* advance at 800rpm, and climbs almost to 20. so vacuum advance works.

I replaced my leaky bypass hose with 2 properly sized hoses and blocked them off with bolts.

Then as I was finishing up and filling it up with water, I decided to put some concentrate coolant in it, because sometimes it has additional cooling properties. With the engine running I noticed it puffing up out of the radiator... for some reason I NEVER saw this with just water.. sure enough, it's puffing A LOT and it was very hot air coming out of there.

So there we have it: a blown head gasket!

Picture 2 shows one of the puffs.

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I FOUND THE ISSUE!

so I was checking on a few things. Started with ignition advance. It's at 5* advance at 800rpm, and climbs almost to 20. so vacuum advance works.

I replaced my leaky bypass hose with 2 properly sized hoses and blocked them off with bolts.

Then as I was finishing up and filling it up with water, I decided to put some concentrate coolant in it, because sometimes it has additional cooling properties. With the engine running I noticed it puffing up out of the radiator... for some reason I NEVER saw this with just water.. sure enough, it's puffing A LOT and it was very hot air coming out of there.

So there we have it: a blown head gasket!

Picture 2 shows one of the puffs.

View attachment 1715392897

View attachment 1715392898

View attachment 1715392899

View attachment 1715392900
Glad you got it! Compression Test would of told you this as well.
 
Ok.. headgasket done. Check out my "Disuster" thread for that..

... but.......

FAIL.... still getting hot!

What's your take on this: If I spray the radiator with water as it's running. the temp drops rapidly.

1. low water flow?
2. low air flow?
3. inefficient radiator?
 
Ok.. headgasket done. Check out my "Disuster" thread for that..

... but.......

FAIL.... still getting hot!

What's your take on this: If I spray the radiator with water as it's running. the temp drops rapidly.

1. low water flow?
2. low air flow?
3. inefficient radiator?
Radiator
 
MINTY FRESH reconditioned radiator. Can watch the coolant flow through this like a hurricane. The radiator shop said It was clogged to the brim with BarsLeak..

I also:
1. added ATF (it was low and also in case the trans was getting hot and causing issues) (no change)
2. removed my condenser for better air flow (helped some)
3. added some richness (not sure if it helped, but the power delivery is better)

It's 95% fixed.. It's still getting a little too warm in my opinion. I went on a 20 minute drive after 10 minutes of warming up, and it was reaching the high end of the "normal" zone.

Can someone confirm what their temp is at their thermostat housing? after that drive mine was at 225*

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I am very pleased to announce that the issue has been resolved! I FINALLY got the thermostat installed, replaced the heater hoses with actual heater hose and not garden hose, filled er up with coolant and it never even considered getting hot after nearly an hour of running and driving.

so now we know! Bad headgasket, bad radiator and thermostat needs installed. Consider this one of the few posts on the internet with an actual resolution!

Thank You everyone for your ideas!
 
Small update.. I PROMISE I will get to the rest of the stuff after this week.. but last night I drained what was in it.. the water came out medium brown in color - not as bad as I thought. So my heater core hose has a T-fitting with a cap half way to the firewall. I unscrewed that only to find it LOADED with gunk. I pulled off both hoses from the block and rinsed out some seriously nasty stuff. My guess is the Heater core was housing some of my problem. I ran a small bypass hose and am now running with no heater core.

So the test drive: It took a lot longer to warm up this time - I thought it was almost fixed til about 10 minutes in. then it got hot FAST. Like it hit a threshold. As I got home, the bypass hose that I made for the heater core was whistling, so I apparently did not get that tight enough.

more to come.
 
One more thing to think about. If it still has the original steel shim head gasket,. It's possible that the water jacket restrictions are rotted out which let's all the water come up from the block at the front of the head instead of the rear. Since it sounds like you have an infrared temp gun, just check the temp front to back. If it's way cooler at the front it may need a new head gasket. Also I've had blocks so plugged up with sediment that a garden hose wouldn't flush it out. I used a 1-1/2" gas powered water pump with no tstat in and just kept swapping top to bottom rad hoses until the water came out clean. Don't be surprised if you have a rusted out freeze plug after you're done.
 
One more thing to think about. If it still has the original steel shim head gasket,. It's possible that the water jacket restrictions are rotted out which let's all the water come up from the block at the front of the head instead of the rear. Since it sounds like you have an infrared temp gun, just check the temp front to back. If it's way cooler at the front it may need a new head gasket. Also I've had blocks so plugged up with sediment that a garden hose wouldn't flush it out. I used a 1-1/2" gas powered water pump with no tstat in and just kept swapping top to bottom rad hoses until the water came out clean. Don't be surprised if you have a rusted out freeze plug after you're done.

The radiator guy said it was clogged with BarsLeak, or a similar leak stopper. It took a while to get the heater core flushed out to, and I'm not convinced that the heater core is flowing that well. I have another one, but it's with the AC HVAC box that I bought for when I convert this car to an A/C car.

The block has always flowed fairly clean water through it. Fortunately the issue is resolved.
 
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