1967 440 Barracuda

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Just acquired a 1967 Barracuda coupe. Solid California car with no drive train. I have a 440 and 727 in the corner of my garage. How feasible is such a project? What do I have to look out for? Have a lead on a 8-3/4 out of a B-Body. Will this fit without extensive modification?
Playing around with a few different ideas here including the RB, a small block (318, 340, 360) or a modern crate hemi. Seeking expert opinions and open minded.
 
Just acquired a 1967 Barracuda coupe. Solid California car with no drive train. I have a 440 and 727 in the corner of my garage. How feasible is such a project? What do I have to look out for? Have a lead on a 8-3/4 out of a B-Body. Will this fit without extensive modification?
Playing around with a few different ideas here including the RB, a small block (318, 340, 360) or a modern crate hemi. Seeking expert opinions and open minded.

Pics?
Not an expert opinion but the 440 will need exhaust manifolds (ebay) or headers (TTI or Schumacher), correct center dump pan with a dimple for the idler arm (440 source) , schumacher motor mounts, the 727 is no problem. Will have to cut a small square out of the LH motor perch to clear the oil pump.

8 3/4" Housing widths, flange to flange

A-BODY
  • '66-'72= 52 5/8”
    • BBP 7.25/8.25 = 51.5”
B-BODY
  • '62-'63= 53 1/4" (And '64 Max Wedge)
  • '64 = 55 5/8" (Exc. Max Wedge)
  • '65-'67= 54 1/4"
  • '68-'70= 54 15/16"
  • '71-'74= 57 7/8"
  • '71-'73 wagon= 59 7/16"
8 3/4" Rear end widths, drum-to-drum:

A-BODY
  • '66-'72= 57 1/8” (or 57 13/16” for BBP axles and brakes)
    • BBP 8.25/7.25= 56 3/4”
B-BODY
  • '62-'63= 58 1/2" (And '64 Max Wedge)
  • '64 = 60 7/8" (Exc.Max Wedge)
  • '65-'67= 59 1/2"
  • '68-'70= 60 1/8"
  • '71-'74= 63"
  • '71-'73 wagon= 64 3/8"
Spring perch widths (center-to-center)

A-BODY
  • '66-73= 43"
B-BODY
  • '62-'70= 44"
  • '71-'74= 47.3"
8 3/4" axle shaft lengths (measured from the tip of the splined end to the outside of the flange)

A-BODY
  • '66-'72= 27 11/16"
B-BODY
  • '65-'67= 28 7/8"
  • '68-'70= 29 3/16"
  • '71-'74= 30 5/8"
  • '71-'73 wagon= 31 21/64"
 
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I think finding an A-body 8-3/4 would simplify things. But there are a lot of 440 Barracudas around. I know one that looks basically stock, and one with a full tube front end. So there are options...
 
It’s a whole different debate about small vs. big blocks in an A body. Personally if I had it and a big block lying around, I’d already be be neck deep into the swap and about to drown. This is what I consider the go to on these conversions. BigBlockDart.Com
 
RB in a barracuda, you will most likely need to change the heater motor (Napa has a smaller diameter and shorter one) and if you have power brakes, your booster may hit the valve cover in the driver side.
 
Just acquired a 1967 Barracuda coupe. Solid California car with no drive train. I have a 440 and 727 in the corner of my garage. How feasible is such a project? What do I have to look out for? Have a lead on a 8-3/4 out of a B-Body. Will this fit without extensive modification?
Playing around with a few different ideas here including the RB, a small block (318, 340, 360) or a modern crate hemi. Seeking expert opinions and open minded.

Putting a big block in an A body car is an exercise in problem solving. If you like to do that sort of stuff then go for it. It helps to look at a few cars before you try it yourself since there are a lot of bad choices out there that people have made when building these cars. I'm in the final stages of my big block Duster project and it was a challenge. I've seen a lot of hack jobs so I knew some of the problems to avoid but I still struggled at times.
DSC_4017 (Large).JPG
 
^^^The best advice I have read on that topic^^^ with a very good build to look at. I especially like the addition of the larger radiator support.
 
I put a 413 in my duster and I'll never go back to a small block, i mean just look at how bad *** a big block looks!!
 
No problem with the blower motor. Manifolds are a TIGHT fit, but will work. My son's Dart and my '67 Barracuda...
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Jim, is that a B or an RB? It also depends on valve covers, I tried some aluminum ones but they would not fit, my stamped steel are a bit shorter and fit fine though.
 
^^^The best advice I have read on that topic^^^ with a very good build to look at. I especially like the addition of the larger radiator support.

Knowing what I know now I'd never do a street driver BB A body without putting in the aftermarket core support. It allows you to run a B body radiator with a shroud and a clutch fan. It does take some skilled labor since the factory core support has to be cut out and replaced but it solves a bunch of problems that people have with these cars.
 
I've seen larger radiators put in without changing the core support. While not ideal, the car did work and didn't overheat. I haven't decided which radiator that I'm going to run in mine, but I do have a '65 C-body 413 radiator that is practically a bolt-in (same width, but taller). I ran it in my old '67 Dart hardtop until the core sprang a leak. I may go aftermarket, but will likely use electric fans either way.

Both my Barracuda and my son's Dart have 440s with factory valve covers.
 
Knowing what I know now I'd never do a street driver BB A body without putting in the aftermarket core support. It allows you to run a B body radiator with a shroud and a clutch fan. It does take some skilled labor since the factory core support has to be cut out and replaced but it solves a bunch of problems that people have with these cars.

I was able to run a Mopar Performance clutch fan, 3 core 22” radiator and stock fan shroud in my M code ‘cuda. It was so tight that I had to put a piece of cardboard against the radiator fins in order to install the clutch fan.
 
Pics?
Not an expert opinion but the 440 will need exhaust manifolds (ebay) or headers (TTI or Schumacher), correct center dump pan with a dimple for the idler arm (440 source) , schumacher motor mounts, the 727 is no problem. Will have to cut a small square out of the LH motor perch to clear the oil pump.

8 3/4" Housing widths, flange to flange

A-BODY
  • '66-'72= 52 5/8”
    • BBP 7.25/8.25 = 51.5”
B-BODY
  • '62-'63= 53 1/4" (And '64 Max Wedge)
  • '64 = 55 5/8" (Exc. Max Wedge)
  • '65-'67= 54 1/4"
  • '68-'70= 54 15/16"
  • '71-'74= 57 7/8"
  • '71-'73 wagon= 59 7/16"
8 3/4" Rear end widths, drum-to-drum:

A-BODY
  • '66-'72= 57 1/8” (or 57 13/16” for BBP axles and brakes)
    • BBP 8.25/7.25= 56 3/4”
B-BODY
  • '62-'63= 58 1/2" (And '64 Max Wedge)
  • '64 = 60 7/8" (Exc.Max Wedge)
  • '65-'67= 59 1/2"
  • '68-'70= 60 1/8"
  • '71-'74= 63"
  • '71-'73 wagon= 64 3/8"
Spring perch widths (center-to-center)

A-BODY
  • '66-73= 43"
B-BODY
  • '62-'70= 44"
  • '71-'74= 47.3"
8 3/4" axle shaft lengths (measured from the tip of the splined end to the outside of the flange)

A-BODY
  • '66-'72= 27 11/16"
B-BODY
  • '65-'67= 28 7/8"
  • '68-'70= 29 3/16"
  • '71-'74= 30 5/8"
  • '71-'73 wagon= 31 21/64"



NEED TO ARCHIVE THIS , or whatever , make sure it can be found easily .
 
26" champion 2 core radiator and a jaguar clutch fan never gets hot and drove this thing almost 1,000 miles round trip only issue broke an exhuast hanger average speed was 65 mph at 3grand.
 
Knowing what I know now I'd never do a street driver BB A body without putting in the aftermarket core support. It allows you to run a B body radiator with a shroud and a clutch fan. It does take some skilled labor since the factory core support has to be cut out and replaced but it solves a bunch of problems that people have with these cars.

I agree, but I have a stock 340 form. S radiator support , just redrilled 4 holes , not cut out for the width of a 28x19 crossflow, with a clutch fan , and highly reworked shroud--------comes apart in the middle like a gm pick up.
The tanks are still behind the support. Drove it yesterday first time since putting the clutch fan back on , ran 193-203 --clutch is a ***** to get studs/bolts in and tightened.
I might go to an 18" fan this summer if needed, have a 17" alum. on it now.
IMG_0469 (3).JPG

I did start w/ an alum. shroud from Summit , but it has been reworked about 5 times for diff configurations while experimenting w/ all kinds or fans.
It is actually shorter than this now , to get the blades 1/2 in and 1/2 out .
The small tube hanging off the shroud was for air ducts running to the no. 1 and 2 header tubes ,trying to cool them , the raised port heads have them very close to the valve covers , not on there now.
I had to do the cardboard trick to. I even chucked the clutch up in my laythe and cut about .060 off the fins, surprising how uneven they were .

Any opinions on cutting the support out so air will hit the tanks ??
 
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I’m using Andy F’s motor plate, USCT rad support, TTI’s and a dana60. It’s not uncommon for people to use BBody 8 3/4. Even uncut. Not what I would do, but it can be done. I have to use the modified blower motor. The MP covers are too close. I also have manual brakes with the offset M/C. The USCT support has little sliders that move in to the size rad you pick. For now I have an electric water pump from PRP and an HHR electric fan. I had to beat in the corner of my pan to clear QA1 K, but that’s a different story
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That motor plate is worlds better than elephant ears, no contest. To satisfy my own personal kinks with a big block a body, blower motor clearance wouldn’t be a concern. I would want the heater control delete plates and the heater delete right hand cowl vent box. Im still hoping someone finds a pile of those in a warehouse.
 
That motor plate is worlds better than elephant ears, no contest. To satisfy my own personal kinks with a big block a body, blower motor clearance wouldn’t be a concern. I would want the heater control delete plates and the heater delete right hand cowl vent box. Im still hoping someone finds a pile of those in a warehouse.

Agree on the motor plate. Don't use raised port heads on a r/b , "no room" for a heater blower motor of any length . Off set mastercyl plate a must, I had to mill the lower rib off to get the cover of the drivers side anyway .
UNDER THE DASH HOTROD HEATER WORKS PRETTY GOOD.
 
RB in a barracuda, you will most likely need to change the heater motor (Napa has a smaller diameter and shorter one) and if you have power brakes, your booster may hit the valve cover in the driver side.

I am using a RB block with stock type Valvecovers and it cleared no problem. I am sure it will vary car to car however here is a pic of my end result....

JW

Image1907997190.jpg
 
Agree on the motor plate. Don't use raised port heads on a r/b , "no room" for a heater blower motor of any length . Off set mastercyl plate a must, I had to mill the lower rib off to get the cover of the drivers side anyway .
UNDER THE DASH HOTROD HEATER WORKS PRETTY GOOD.

That side is tight in regards to the MC. My setup is unique to most however with hydroboost it clears no problem....

JW

Image1902195370.jpg
 
AndyF said it best. A bunch of problem solving. Certainly attainable with even minimal mechanical skills but IMO my 2 post lift has been the game changer doing this. At my age in my mindset without the lift I would have zero interest in this type of undertaking but I do all things mechanical in a place of business full of equipment on a daily basis so my zeal is lost for working on cars now.

If you have the drivetrain and it's a good known piece, sure why not....

JW
 
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