Crimps in fuel line to carb

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GoldSwinger71

GoldSwinger71

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My 318 2bbl Dart has an (apparently?) 1 year only Rochester 2GV carb on top. I have an obviously sticky needle valve that's causing the engine to get gobs of fuel, so I started eyeballing taking it off to do a rebuild.

The problem is, I looked at the hard line coming from the tank (on the passenger side), and it's got several kinks in it (4-5) as it comes up towards the carb.

Is this something that would be worth it to cut out, flare it, put a union in, and make a new piece of hard line to the carb? Or should I just leave it be? As long as I can confirm that's a fuel source (there shouldn't be a return?) I could also use that as an excuse to put a fuel filter inline.

I'm very new to non fuel-injected stuff, and to be completely honest, I'm trying to apply skills that I've observed from the family through some basic wrenching of my own.

Thanks!

Daniel
 
You could do a flow test to see if the kinks are restrictive.
 
Your second sentence answers your question. You have a stuck needle thats allowing to much fuel into the engine.

Therefore the kinks in fuel line are not an issue. Your already getting more fuel than you can use?
 
GoldSwinger71 said:
My 318 2bbl Dart has an (apparently?) 1 year only Rochester 2GV carb on top. I have an obviously sticky needle valve that's causing the engine to get gobs of fuel, so I started eyeballing taking it off to do a rebuild.

The problem is, I looked at the hard line coming from the tank (on the passenger side), and it's got several kinks in it (4-5) as it comes up towards the carb.

Is this something that would be worth it to cut out, flare it, put a union in, and make a new piece of hard line to the carb? Or should I just leave it be? As long as I can confirm that's a fuel source (there shouldn't be a return?) I could also use that as an excuse to put a fuel filter inline.

I'm very new to non fuel-injected stuff, and to be completely honest, I'm trying to apply skills that I've observed from the family through some basic wrenching of my own.

Thanks!

Daniel
Click to expand...
I have a 71 dart swinger i also have the Rochester 2 barrel carburetor my car is air conditioning in my fuel filter is before the fuel pump because there's no room on the line to install one with the air conditioner there no problem with mine you're the first guy I heard that had that Rochester carburetor it's very rare good luck
 
I would fix both.
You can get a new, pre-bent fuel line for $65.00
No reason to run a 50yr old bent up fuel line. Inline Tube can set you up.
www.inlinetube.com
 
My 1971 Dodge Demon 318 had that carb it would bog at times coasting that ever so slightly getting back on the throttle. I learned 2 decades later that there was a TSB to enlarge the jets to fix it.
 
I've continued to dig into this, I ordered a fuel pump to carb stainless line, but based on my initial look (haven't matched it in the garage yet) it might not have the fuel inlet at the same location on the 2GV carb? Does anyone have a picture handy of the fuel line from the pump to carb (regardless of the carb model) ?
 
Factory 4bbl fuel line.

IMG_20160206_133252375.jpg
 
So after looking at mine, they spliced a fuel filter before the pump, and there's some janky stuff going on up to the Rochester 2GV. I see I'm going to be learning that bending and flare tool sooner rather than later.
 
GoldSwinger71 said:
So after looking at mine, they spliced a fuel filter before the pump, and there's some janky stuff going on up to the Rochester 2GV. I see I'm going to be learning that bending and flare tool sooner rather than later.
Click to expand...

Time to shake the 2bbl, and put a 4bbl on.
 
GoldSwinger71 said:
My 318 2bbl Dart has an (apparently?) 1 year only Rochester 2GV carb on top. I have an obviously sticky needle valve that's causing the engine to get gobs of fuel, so I started eyeballing taking it off to do a rebuild.

The problem is, I looked at the hard line coming from the tank (on the passenger side), and it's got several kinks in it (4-5) as it comes up towards the carb.

Is this something that would be worth it to cut out, flare it, put a union in, and make a new piece of hard line to the carb? Or should I just leave it be? As long as I can confirm that's a fuel source (there shouldn't be a return?) I could also use that as an excuse to put a fuel filter inline.

I'm very new to non fuel-injected stuff, and to be completely honest, I'm trying to apply skills that I've observed from the family through some basic wrenching of my own.

Thanks!

Daniel
Click to expand...

Kinks in the fuel line are flow restrictions... I would make a new line with clean bends...
 
GoldSwinger71 said:
So after looking at mine, they spliced a fuel filter before the pump, and there's some janky stuff going on up to the Rochester 2GV. I see I'm going to be learning that bending and flare tool sooner rather than later.
Click to expand...

A couple of things.........an everyday filter before the pump may introduce too much restriction, as the pump is doing "it's best" under vacuum to start with. There are (exist) special low restriction filters designed for suction side use

The other thing, is that you may have a lot of "crap" in the tank/ feed line that is causing the trouble, and the previous owner put a filter there to try and stop it.
 
You know how much fuel a stock 2bbl 318 is likely to require?
About a 3 cups per minute at between 4000 and 5000rpm, at WOT.
With 2.76 gears, this happens at ~50 mph in first gear. Nobody I know would ever do that to a streeter.
It will take you about 8 to 10 seconds to get to 50, burning an average of ~1.5 ounces per second at the very best it can do. You wanna guess how much gas is stored in that Rochester 2bbl?
I'll guess 3 to 4 ounces. Lets say the pump dies at WOT, and 3.5ounces is able to exit, that would be I'm guessing 4 to 5 seconds worth.
But at 1000rpm, in Drive/30mph, and cruising, say at 12 hp, you might be looking at 2 to 2.5 ounces per minute, so now, with no fuel coming into the bowl, you are good for almost 1.5 minutes of cruising.

The "kinks" would have to be pretty ugly to be a problem .

BTW; NEVER patch old fuel lines with compression fittings, especially on the suction side. Have you seen what that compression ring does to the line? If it sucks air, you will tear your hair out trying to figure it out. If it leaks raw gas........ maybe it will syphon all your gas out. But if it just empties the line, Yur in for a lotta cranking, and baaaack to hair pulling.
What about the pressure side? Well #1 yur gonna see it right away, and #2 if the engine is running with the hood up, chances are it will catch on fire right away, and you can file an insurance claim. Whatever the case, you can stop wondering why yur getting such rotten fuel mileage.lol
 
This spring I plan to drain the tank to see what lovely stuff comes out of it. I will also be replacing the fuel level sender (since the gauge doesn't work... might be the Instrument Voltage Regulator, replacing that first...) Yeah, some of it is purely cosmetic, but I'd rather have less of a patchwork of lines when it comes to fuel. I'll also be carrying a fire extinguisher with me... it's a habit from driving with tow straps, cold weather gear, jumper cables, etc.
 
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