My 360 build.

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Well I got it tore down completely now. I'm going to follow along with @krazykuda and his awesome how to that he was kind enough to put together. So far the crank bearing surfaces look awesome. Both the crank and bearings are marked .010 so I know what main bearings to get now. The rod bearings are not marked but I can read the part number. I have yet to try and find what they are.
View attachment 1715431446 View attachment 1715431447
The bores look good at .030 over. I'll hone them up and drop new pistons in with the stock rods and ARP rod bolts. I ordered most of the stuff I need like pistons, rod bolts, oil pump, etcon Summit's black friday sale saving a whopping 50 bucks but free shipping to Canada is always sweet!
View attachment 1715431448
If anyone wants a used MP 508 cam it's out and available too.
View attachment 1715431449
Looks like a new double roller in it so that is a bit of a bonus too! All in all it was a good couple hours in the shop!

Cley
89on35s I see you had the mopar 292/508 mopar cam. How did it run in your 360 before teardown? Was it dot to dot? Why not use it again?
 
Read the description on the speedmaster rods carefully.....wrist pin size is ,927
 
Give it a generous converter and cog ratio with a good compression ratio. If your car is light enough, it’ll run mid to low 12’s.
 
What oldkimmer said
but if you have the 508 run it and see how it works
do a compression check
then you know how much to change and which way to jump
new lifters or keep old with the matching lobe- egg cartons work marked correctly
rock the bottoms of the lifters together to make sure they are convex
cheers
 
The wrist pin on those rods are
.927. I know I have a set. They would have taken them back if It was within a year of purchase.
 
The 508 purple cam can be made to work well. Sure there are newer grinds with modern design. But this cam gets the job done even being an older design. But it is up to 89on35s what his needs are. Also idle will be a bit rough which many love but some don't.
 
I sold the 508 cam today. Likely go with a solid roller custom grind cam but I'll worry about that when I get the crank and pistons back in and can verify what my compression will be.

Cley
 
Merry Christmas to me from me!

Cley
20191227_104624.jpg
 
Just need gasket kit and bearings. Then I'm ready. Going to see about balancing next week now that I have everything I need for that!

Cley
 
What all will I need to bring for balancing? I wasnt expecting to need the bearings.

Cley

Crank
Pistons
Wrist pins
Rods
Rod bearings
Rings
Pin locks
Flywheel and clutch if you like 3 pedals
Flex plate if you don't like 3 pedals
Damper unless it's an ATI\FD\Innovaters West\Rattler style
 
Is there a way that I can remove the pistons from the rods at home? Can you just press them out? I should I get the balance shop to do it?

Cley
 
Is there a way that I can remove the pistons from the rods at home? Can you just press them out? I should I get the balance shop to do it?
Cley

If you don't mind destroying the Pistons you can take the pins out at home. Just have your machine shop remove them and install them.
 
So here is what I am ending up with. The rotating assembly is currently being balanced and I have all my parts except the Cam and Intake that are both on the way. The questions will start to fly now! First one is regarding ring gap on my KB107 pistons. How do I decide what it needs to be? I read somewhere on here that these particular pistons like a larger ring gap than some others but I cannot find the info for the life of me. Anyone have any thoughts?

Also, any guess what power it'll make? I know its gonna be better than what I have.

Cley

360 .030 overbore
Stock crank
Stock rods w. ARP bolts
HV oil pump with upgraded drive shaft
KB107 pistons
Speedmaster CNC heads
.027 thick Cometic head gaskets
Cam - Solid Flat Tappet, 230/236@.050, 264/270 adv, .453/.473 lift (1.5 rocker), 112 lsa. 108 int centerline, Lash .022/.024, Int. open @ 7 close @ 43,Exh open @ 54 close @2, 9 degree overlap @ .050. (Suggested by Oregon Cam Grinders)
Edelbrock Torker 2 intake
Holley 750 VS carb
Calculated 10.2 to 1 compression
 
So here is what I am ending up with. The rotating assembly is currently being balanced and I have all my parts except the Cam and Intake that are both on the way. The questions will start to fly now! First one is regarding ring gap on my KB107 pistons. How do I decide what it needs to be? I read somewhere on here that these particular pistons like a larger ring gap than some others but I cannot find the info for the life of me. Anyone have any thoughts?

Also, any guess what power it'll make? I know its gonna be better than what I have.

Cley

360 .030 overbore
Stock crank
Stock rods w. ARP bolts
HV oil pump with upgraded drive shaft
KB107 pistons
Speedmaster CNC heads
.027 thick Cometic head gaskets
Cam - Solid Flat Tappet, 230/236@.050, 264/270 adv, .453/.473 lift (1.5 rocker), 112 lsa. 108 int centerline, Lash .022/.024, Int. open @ 7 close @ 43,Exh open @ 54 close @2, 9 degree overlap @ .050. (Suggested by Oregon Cam Grinders)
Edelbrock Torker 2 intake
Holley 750 VS carb
Calculated 10.2 to 1 compression
This will clear 400 hp.
Go to the K. Website and look up your piston by the numbers- KB 107 - in the search bar. You’ll find gap instructions there.
 
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