Electronic ignition for Slant 6

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I did the GM HEI kit from username 'Trailbeast' about 3 years ago along with Magnecor cables and iridium plugs. Best mod I ever did on that slant. So easy too. The stock resistor, condenser, coil and ignition module all get chucked. Or you can leave the stock stuff in place as a backup ignition system.
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
I tried pertonix years ago and it didn't work.

the best luck I had was with as many used parts I could find laying around. I did get a electronic conversion harness off ebay and an auto zone remanufactured electronic distributor. 6 years later and almost 30K miles later and it will start right now. I did not upgrade anything else and kept it simple, just ran what is there and is still there now that still works great. Total cost was under 50 bucks (2012 prices)

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Harbor Freight, I have that exact same screwdriver.
 
69a100 said:
2 more pieces of proof that ABO people are just as ignorant & arrogant as the rest of the Mopar crowd! They know everything and their crap don't stink!
You can't even understand something simple that if a vehicle doesn't like a component, you have to give a person carp that they're wrong. YEAH, screw this group as well!
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Don't let the door hit you in the ***...Now go clean your room.
 
1) This thread, (& a couple of others) belong in the electrical & ign., even if We're discussing a Slanty..
2) This is a riot a post, really, "no it won't,...yes it will,....nuh uhh,....ah huh.......!!!!"holy F#@K!!!
3) That's great if You & ten of Your Buddies all had the same issue, and found the A-field E-Reg solved it for You, ....but You simply have no idea why.......& that is the question being asked of You...
4) Alternators and old-school regs., have condensors,....many of which may have given it up a long time ago,.....the resulting RFI could well be an issue,....but You really have no clue why do You????
5) I have no problem with a little name calling, if warranted & clever, and it tells Me much about to Whom I'm conversing when they duck behind it the moment they are questioned.
Cheers.......
 
Funny thing about us" Mpar folk, we can get really opinionated and sometimes a little pissy discussing:
1. This ign. thing
2. subframe connectors
3. oil!!!! ha
4. slants vs v8
5. Best way to make bar b q
6. Ah the list could be long!!!!

Funny a while back a life long back from my childhood days told me Mopar people are just plain anal! He has been 100 % GM for the last 60 yrs, but awhile back bought some of RR and Bees to do some work on and flip! I just said thank you I resemble that remark.

PS . RRR and I agree, nothing wrong with points. Just takes a small amount of looking after.

69a100??? If ya could buy some people for what they are really worth and sell them for what they think they are worth, ya would be a millionaire, with inflation, a billionaire. Maybe substitute, really know and think they know??

The story continues??
 
(If you want to see the second punchline, go to the source and hover your cursor over the cartoon)

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Ignitor I is older and requires keeping your ballast resistor. Ignitor II is more like GM's HEI (or Ford's TFI), so I would use that. I recall that Ignitor III offers multi-spark and rev limiter, but might be less reliable, plus may not even have a PN for a slant. Avoid the Crane Cams XR700. I had one on my 69 Slant and 65 383, but the control box failed on one (fortunately had a spare box in trunk) and the optical pickup failed on another, plus it is old electronics which requires keeping the ballast.

On my slant, I installed a GM 8-pin HEI & its coil, triggered by a Mopar e-distributor. I pulled parts from a 85-95 Chevy V-8 truck. TrailBeast here sells the new parts as a kit.
 
The GM HEI is definitely worth considering. I’m currently running stock Chrysler ignition components on my ‘75 Dart but, will be seriously considering the GM HEI setup if I run into any issues.
 
My car, being a 1965, had points when I bought it in 1983. In 1987, I upgraded to an electronic ignition from a 72 Scamp mainly because I was getting tired of pulling the distributor to do a tuneup and I had a free parts car. The Mopar EI system was mostly trouble-free except for a couple of ECUs that burned out on me over the years. The ballast resistors never gave me any trouble. Also in 1987, I also upgraded from a Carter BBS to a 9625 AFB and ran that until 2004, at which time I upgraded to a Quadrajet (using the OEM tuning from its 77 Pontiac donor car). See Quadrajet Upgrade.

It wasn't until 2017 did I get around to tuning my Quadrajet and got set up with great power and fuel economy. The AFB had better fuel economy than the BBS and the Quadrajet was better than the AFB. I often take long road trips (easily hundreds of miles per day) so fuel economy is important to me. The nice thing about my Quadrajet is that it has an adjustable part throttle fuel mixture and I found that it got a lean surge around 3.5 turns from the bottom. A lean surge comes from the ignition system not being able to reliably ignite a lean fuel mixture. Having read up on the GM 4-pin HEI upgrade, I thought this would allow me to get a hotter spark so as to be able to run leaner highway fuel mixtures. See Quadrajet Tuning.

I did HEI Ignition System Upgrade in 2018 and found that the HEI system does in fact have a much hotter spark than the Mopar EI system. It has no problem allowing me to fully lean-out my part-throttle fuel mixture by turning the APT all the way in (ie, 0 turns from the bottom) with no lean surge. I haven't driven my car much last year so wasn't able to do more carb tuning lately.

If your existing points ignition system has no trouble igniting your fuel mixture within your normal RPM range, you are not going to see any real performance improvement by upgrading to an electronic system (Mopar EI, Pertronix, HEI, etc). Its only when you start pushing the limits of the ignition will you start to see a benefit.
 
Jax_1975_Dart said:
... GM HEI setup if I run into any issues.
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If you grab parts at the junkyard, be sure to get the GM coil and the cable which runs from it to the HEI module. That will save fuss (plug & play). Also, take the little white connector for the pickup, cutting the wires as long as possible right at the GM pickup. The other Weatherpak connector is the 12 V feed (red) and tach output (wht). Cut those wires as long as you can. I mounted the HEI on an old PC CPU finned aluminum (cut to size), but just a flat aluminum plate should work since GM just heat-sunk it to the distributor body. Smear heat paste. A good ground wire to one of the mounting screws. Might also grab the knock sensor (1-wire) & module. The sensor will screw into your block drain (as in GM). If a slant, you need a 3/8 to 1/4 NPT bushing for the drain. A Holley Commander 950 can use the knock sensor and control timing of the 8-pin HEI, as can Megasquirt (I think).
 
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