Universal steering couplers

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Belvedere66

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Hey all, I have a 72 Demon with stock power steering box and stock column. My factory style coupler hits my headers and some had ground it down to a point where it's unsafe. I have a new stock coupler but it won't clear headers. I'd rather not fight with getting them off to beat the pipe in so I was wanting to find an easy replacement that would be a bit more streamlined and clear the header pipe. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg on a flaming river coupler. I'd like to be around $100 or less total cost with the least amount of modification as possible.

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I forget the year cut off, but some have a telescoping shaft, that extends down, so that extra extension piece isnt needed. 73+ maybe? My 74 didn't need it
 
I forget the year cut off, but some have a telescoping shaft, that extends down, so that extra extension piece isnt needed. 73+ maybe? My 74 didn't need it
I just used it after converting to manual last year, i had the old coupler on it still before i changed headers.
 
I had the same issue on my 69 Dart with a set of CPPA headers. I wound up using a u-joint type coupler from Flamming River.
 
Even though many have done it, the original coupler has plunge built in to make up for chassis flex. All cars of the era had something similar. When you convert to a solid coupling, you eliminate this feature and put all the load on your column bearing.
 
Even though many have done it, the original coupler has plunge built in to make up for chassis flex. All cars of the era had something similar. When you convert to a solid coupling, you eliminate this feature and put all the load on your column bearing.
Had this for 2 years and about 8 thousand miles tighter than the factory ever could be with ample header clearance.
 
Yeah that is my main question at this point. Do I get the 5/8" 36 spline or the 0.620" 36 spline?
 
Even though many have done it, the original coupler has plunge built in to make up for chassis flex. All cars of the era had something similar. When you convert to a solid coupling, you eliminate this feature and put all the load on your column bearing.

Some Mopars such as my e-body had a two piece shaft. I lubed mine up to allow slight in and out movement. Hopefully, that is enough.
 
The steering shafts are two piece anyway. So if it need to collapse or extend ever so slightly it will. The two pieces were only held in place by injected plastic.
 
I learned by pure accident how little it takes to collapse the two shafts, not thinking more than once I tapped the steering wheel to get the coupler on a steering box only to wind up with a column that was to short. I had to then tap them apart. I swear I think the plastic or nylon was put there to prevent a rattle.
 
I learned by pure accident how little it takes to collapse the two shafts, not thinking more than once I tapped the steering wheel to get the coupler on a steering box only to wind up with a column that was to short. I had to then tap them apart. I swear I think the plastic or nylon was put there to prevent a rattle.
It deteriorates over time.
 
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