My home inspection of Speedmaster heads

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j par said:
I would probably have at least 10 questions to ask these guys but no one's wanting to let go any secrets.. it's just the same four or five guys that have flow benches talk in their language to each other... That's why I called it chest beating because really everybody wants to just talk as if they know so much that this isn't worth their time to talk to anybody who doesn't...
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Jpar, you seem to have a sense of entitlement. Do you think they owe you this information? They are posting their results to us for free and you are complaining. There is plenty of head porting info on the net if you look for it. With pictures too. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0001-360-engine-head-porting/ https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0210-porting-383-440-aluminum-replacement-heads/ https://www.hotrod.com/articles/cylinder-heads-ii/
 
forphorty said:
Jpar, you seem to have a sense of entitlement. Do you think they owe you this information? They are posting their results to us for free and you are complaining. There is plenty of head porting info on the net if you look for it. With pictures too. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0001-360-engine-head-porting/ Porting 383/440 Aluminum Replacement Heads - Mopar Muscle Magazine https://www.hotrod.com/articles/cylinder-heads-ii/
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You're wrong I have no entitlement issues...
I've read it twice and learn nothing... Except for they seem to know what they're doing...
Well I shouldn't say nothing, but nothing about porting that's for sure..
I learned exactly what was told right here on this thread..
"Home inspection of Speedmaster heads"
Buying these on sale loaded is a good budget way to go for a small bump in performance over your stock heads..
By the time you loaded these up with expensive parts and had expensive work done to them you'd be at least at getting some promaxx shockers or well on your way to some trick flows...
now I'll say it for the hundred and tenth time I enjoyed reading what they did and I'm glad for them that they can do it but as far as helping me the only thing I learned was I did great by buying what I bought for what I expected..
I'll follow the tips on this thread and try to follow them..
I will follow 318willrun's way of going with these heads...
 
What you should have done was took one of them dirt spark plugs and screwed it into you nice new head and took a picture.
instead of just showed us you different heat range spark plugs. The threads are the same length on both, screw one in and take a picture.
 
Cudafever said:
What you should have done was took one of them dirt spark plugs and screwed it into you nice new head and took a picture.
instead of just showed us you different heat range spark plugs. The threads are the same length on both, screw one in and take a picture.
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I took what 12many said as the truth when he said that the spark plugs didn't cover those threads.. so I looked at the spark plugs he used and compared it to the new spark plugs that I now use..
and kind of like you said I don't want to screw in old oily spark plug into my new heads... See how nice I answered...
 
The question was the sharp thread poking out and if the spark plug screwed up that far.
The heat range had nothing to do with the sharp spark plug threads.
And, is why i suggested you put a spark plug in, because you have one in you hand, and you have the head and thread in question.
 
j par said:
yes I just checked my spark plugs and I used to run those Autolite 3924 so as well.. I tried one heat range hotter this year and used in NGK V Power 8..
Thank you for that tip all address that as needed.. also I'm wondering if this is more of a concern with cast iron than aluminum?..
I grabbed the two different plugs and took a picture real quick while I was out checking what I am running I forgot it's been a few months now.. and for some reason I can't find the book that I write them down in.. also I pulled the cover and looked inside my car and gave myself a shock as I forgot my seats are at the reupholstery shop...
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the next Heat range up is still pretty cold and insulator is still inside.. just not down in the hole..
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too cold a plug in my opinion.... loss of power in my opinion too.... but just my opinoin
 
toolmanmike said:
Did you figure out the valve length issue? If it's the seat causing the problem could you machine some off the stem to correct it or is .010 nothing to be concerned about?
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probably had to have the seat or valve ground a little extra on that one is all. I won't worry about the .010, its really not that big a deal.
 
318willrun said:
too cold a plug in my opinion.... loss of power in my opinion too.... but just my opinoin
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I'm creeping my way up onto hotter plugs. It's just what the recommendation of the machine shop that did some of the original work on my motor gave.. I was having problems with run on due to the higher compression of my motor.. ultimately I found out I just need more octane... As you know I've been getting it more street friendly so I can enjoy it more and get more familiar with it to diagnose...
 
Cudafever said:
The question was the sharp thread poking out and if the spark plug screwed up that far.
The heat range had nothing to do with the sharp spark plug threads.
And, is why i suggested you put a spark plug in, because you have one in you hand, and you have the head and thread in question.
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And back to answer I'm posed to 480...
I compared the two spark plugs to see there thread depth.. and just added a small bit of conversation about the heat range... Since the thread depth were not any different there wasn't any reason to doubt what 12many said...
 
The plug type used are the same for the SM’s and the TF’s. I don’t have a pic of a plug installed in the SM’s but here’s what I’m talking about. Radiused, no sharp edges and the plug electrode more exposed. Install a plug and see how the electrode is recessed and the amount of sharp threads are exposed.

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12many said:
And it’s in a TF head at that. I raised both eyebrows when I checked the SM’s with a plug. I index my plugs so at least the gap is exposed toward the valve, but just on looks alone yeah....hmmm! Maybe someone can run a plug in and post a pic to show this on the SM?
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I’ll try to screw a 3911 in mine today. I would run down there now before I leave but it’s on my flowbench
 
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