Universal steering couplers

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on a 65, the column is held on with a 2 bolt strap at your knees! A rigid mount would just slide the steering column in and out a few mm's. If your welding...how about a 3/4 drive U-joint? Weld a socket on the steering shaft and have a removeable "snap in" column.....nuts? You AINT gonna break it! (4000 in/lbs)
urrea-socket-adapters-5670-64_1000.jpg


Looks like weldable steering U-joints are cheaper than these......
 
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I used this one. But I used an aftermarket manual steering box.
New Steering U Joint Black Universal 5/8"-36 Spline X 3/4" Round 60 Style | eBay

Didn't want to weld it on permanently. So I drilled a hole on the column end, tapped the coupler and coupler, used a 3/8 grade 8 bolt and lock nut through the factory pin hole.
View attachment 1715445365 View attachment 1715445366 View attachment 1715445367
That's actually a really good idea because I've been trying to find and 11/32 Cobalt bit to drill a hole in the stainless steel coupler I purchased. But the pain is a oddball size how did you get a 3/8 bolt to fit snugly in the factory pin hole? I would have to probably tap the shaft and just make a smooth bore hole in the coupler because trying to tap stainless would be difficult.
 
So I've run into a slight snag. is there a way to remove the dowel pin at the end of the shaft without having to remove the entire column? I know it is in there pretty damn good but I don't know if anyone has had any luck getting it out while still on the car.
 
I used this one. But I used an aftermarket manual steering box.
New Steering U Joint Black Universal 5/8"-36 Spline X 3/4" Round 60 Style | eBay

Didn't want to weld it on permanently. So I drilled a hole on the column end, tapped the coupler and coupler, used a 3/8 grade 8 bolt and lock nut through the factory pin hole.
View attachment 1715445365 View attachment 1715445366 View attachment 1715445367
I used some garage ingenuity and fashioned a hand press out of a ball joint tool and some shortened bolts and thick washers. Dowel pin out, didn't have to remove my column to get shaft out. I'm going to tap the shaft, and use a 3/8"-24 set screw with loctite. My universal is stainless steel so I didn't think my tap bit could do the job so I was just going to drill a normal 3/8 hole and let the set screw fit tightly inside it on each end. The loctite should hold the screw in indefinitely but I could realistically take it apart if I ever needed my shaft out for whatever reason.
 
I used some garage ingenuity and fashioned a hand press out of a ball joint tool and some shortened bolts and thick washers. Dowel pin out, didn't have to remove my column to get shaft out. I'm going to tap the shaft, and use a 3/8"-24 set screw with loctite. My universal is stainless steel so I didn't think my tap bit could do the job so I was just going to drill a normal 3/8 hole and let the set screw fit tightly inside it on each end. The loctite should hold the screw in indefinitely but I could realistically take it apart if I ever needed my shaft out for whatever reason.
Sorry for the slow reply. Sounds like you got it though. That's exactly what I did, except my column was out. Good job on the dowel pin tool! Post a pic!
 
Hmmmmm, dick with the factory-designed steering system that's engineered with my safety in mind, or dent the aftermarket headers that are so poorly designed they don't fit in the first place.

Hmmmmm dent the headers or add a part that's not designed for axial loads transmission and apply repeated cyclical axial loads ...hmmmmm

Dent vs. Safety. Hmmmmm

Dent vs. Safety. Hmmmmmm

Yeah I'm outta idears on this one. Weld up the slip joints on your transmission output shafts while you're at it. The drive shaft will just flex and it'll be fine. Then you can brag that you did it better.
 
Hmmmmm, dick with the factory-designed steering system that's engineered with my safety in mind, or dent the aftermarket headers that are so poorly designed they don't fit in the first place.

Hmmmmm dent the headers or add a part that's not designed for axial loads transmission and apply repeated cyclical axial loads ...hmmmmm

Dent vs. Safety. Hmmmmm

Dent vs. Safety. Hmmmmmm

Yeah I'm outta idears on this one. Weld up the slip joints on your transmission output shafts while you're at it. The drive shaft will just flex and it'll be fine. Then you can brag that you did it better.

People been doing it for years. Don't be sceerd.
 
So i guess saving steering u-joints from cars that have two was a good idea after all. the u joint in the engine bay fails, the one under dash is like new.
some are slip-shaft style so i have the necessary parts to weld in. Or i will mill off the splined end and weld it to the better u-joint.
Did that on a dodge pickup about 20 years ago,still there still perfect.
 
Hmmmmm, dick with the factory-designed steering system that's engineered with my safety in mind, or dent the aftermarket headers that are so poorly designed they don't fit in the first place.

Hmmmmm dent the headers or add a part that's not designed for axial loads transmission and apply repeated cyclical axial loads ...hmmmmm

Dent vs. Safety. Hmmmmm

Dent vs. Safety. Hmmmmmm

Yeah I'm outta idears on this one. Weld up the slip joints on your transmission output shafts while you're at it. The drive shaft will just flex and it'll be fine. Then you can brag that you did it better.
Well I guess all of these people who have done it and all of the companies who sell these style steering joints are just killing everyone. My 2019 Mazda has a universal steering joint, as did my 2017, 2015, my 2000 Celica, my 11 Scion, our 07 and 19 santa fe's.....etc etc. I guess they are deemed not as safe as some **** coupler box designed by the same people who thought of bulkhead connectors, reverse thread lugnuts, and ammeters. I'll take my chances with my setup. I've got plenty of guys who supported my idea who have a lot more experience than I. Or pull engine just to get some crappy headers off that I don't plan on keeping anyway. I've tried map gas and lots of tools to try to dent the header pipe in, that was my first plan. So.....✌️
 
Sorry for the slow reply. Sounds like you got it though. That's exactly what I did, except my column was out. Good job on the dowel pin tool! Post a pic!
Yeah thanks for the idea man, I have a machinist working on all of the drilling and tapping tonight
 
Yeah thanks for the idea man, I have a machinist working on all of the drilling and tapping tonight
Good! Be careful in that death trap. Lol
I'll be out putting drum brakes on and cutting my steering u joint out of my car.
 
Good! Be careful in that death trap. Lol
I'll be out putting drum brakes on and cutting my steering u joint out of my car.
Here's a crude picture of the tool I used. And I was mistaken it was a tie rod end tool not ball joint. Similar but smaller I believe. Worked pretty great actually. Newborn and wife were sleeping above me so couldn't use any punches or hammers anyway.

IMG_20200108_223919_627.jpg
 
Also will be using this ER-16 flange bearing for the lower bearing instead of replacing the crappy plastic retainer that's currently missing.

IMG_20200110_122115_669.jpg
 
Did you just tap in in with a socket or something? Haven't tried anything yet, picked it up during my lunch break
Yep it's pretty snug, so if your column is rusty it will take some work with sand paper and a file to get a good fit. Then grease it up and tap it down with hammer and flat punch.
 
Well I guess all of these people who have done it and all of the companies who sell these style steering joints are just killing everyone. My 2019 Mazda has a universal steering joint, as did my 2017, 2015, my 2000 Celica, my 11 Scion, our 07 and 19 santa fe's.....etc etc. I guess they are deemed not as safe as some **** coupler box designed by the same people who thought of bulkhead connectors, reverse thread lugnuts, and ammeters. I'll take my chances with my setup. I've got plenty of guys who supported my idea who have a lot more experience than I. Or pull engine just to get some crappy headers off that I don't plan on keeping anyway. I've tried map gas and lots of tools to try to dent the header pipe in, that was my first plan. So.....✌️

People think metal fatigue don't be like it is but it do. Have fun.
 
Since my 69 Dart has a collapsible steering column , wouldn't that take care of the flex that people worry about?
 
Since my 69 Dart has a collapsible steering column , wouldn't that take care of the flex that people worry about?
There are those that say that is enough. I'm one of those living on the edge rebels. There are those that say no, Ma Mopar had it right from the factory. Stay away from the aftermarket u joints or design in a slip joint.

Your choice. I ain't arguing about it anymore. Other guys feel the same way and don't even respond to these threads anymore. Think I'll join them.
 
So i guess all those aftermarket u-joints they use in a bunch racing series just fail all the time? Maybe they should use the state of the art mopar coupler you know for safety.
 
So i guess all those aftermarket u-joints they use in a bunch racing series just fail all the time? Maybe they should use the state of the art mopar coupler you know for safety.

When your chassis is as rigid as a 'caged race-car, it's not required. When your car has a hundred thousand miles on a structure that wasn't stellar to begin with...well, someone makes it so you need to install it.

I broke up with her in 2011 but ok weird flex . Now we have personal insults. I think you need a timeout in the corner.

All I did was compliment her tastes. Sorry I hurt your feelings.
 
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