Mancini Stainless Steel roller rockers

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gm1236

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Any body using the Stainless roller rockers that Mancini sells. Are these any good or Chinese crap?
 
Any body using the Stainless roller rockers that Mancini sells. Are these any good or Chinese crap?


If you are going to buy rockers and you want stainless (I would and do run them) call Mike at B3 racing engines and let him sell you the rockers and his correction kit. You WILL need it. And Mike has the PRW stainless rockers.
 
We have some big time engine builders here agree that some of those chinese "crap" rockers are pretty good.
 
You can get a quality part from over seas. The problem is getting them to make it and make it cheap enough for people to purchase them.
 
Picture on their page tells me it's the same set that PRW and speed master sell.

Definitely Chinese made, I bought I set for $161 on Black Friday, cleaned and inspected them thoroughly, didn't find any issues, other than being a bit gritty.

I'd buy direct from SM for $240, if I wanted that particular set.

Mopar Chrysler SB 318 340 360 1.5 Stainless Steel Roller Rocker Arms W/ Hardware
Definitely the same set, thanks for the tip. Unfortunately they are out of stock. I’ll check back in a few weeks. I assume they are decent, Mancini doesn’t sell junk. From your reply it sounds like they are ok. Thanks for the reply.
 
If you are going to buy rockers and you want stainless (I would and do run them) call Mike at B3 racing engines and let him sell you the rockers and his correction kit. You WILL need it. And Mike has the PRW stainless rockers.
I met Mike at Carlise few years ago, really sharp guy. I’ll check out his stuff.
Thanks for the reply.
 
We have some big time engine builders here agree that some of those chinese "crap" rockers are pretty good.
I’ve had good luck with Eagle parts, like you said some of the Chinese crap is good. That’s why I was asking. Thanks for the reply.
 
So far, I like the PRWs, if that's what Mancini offers. The "Speedmasters" unless they have changed, are not the same piece. As a matter of fact, long before the PRWs, "Procomp" AKA Speedmaster (I think?) sold some that had a lock nut that no wrench I'm aware of would fit. I saw them at the Don Garlits MoPar show/swap meet back in the late '90s and ALMOST bought them from a vendor there. I was impressed with the bronze bushings and the shafts looked nice, but then I noticed the wacky adjuster locknuts and backed out before turning loose the cash. Easily swapped, but I just got that creepy feeling of inferior quality that I couldn't shake. The PRWs look as good or better than Comp Cams' to me (especially the unbushed, early Comps that are known to scuff/seize).
 
So far, I like the PRWs, if that's what Mancini offers. The "Speedmasters" unless they have changed, are not the same piece. As a matter of fact, long before the PRWs, "Procomp" AKA Speedmaster (I think?) sold some that had a lock nut that no wrench I'm aware of would fit. I saw them at the Don Garlits MoPar show/swap meet back in the late '90s and ALMOST bought them from a vendor there. I was impressed with the bronze bushings and the shafts looked nice, but then I noticed the wacky adjuster locknuts and backed out before turning loose the cash. Easily swapped, but I just got that creepy feeling of inferior quality that I couldn't shake. The PRWs look as good or better than Comp Cams' to me (especially the unbushed, early Comps that are known to scuff/seize).

Never heard of the comps scuffing or seizing . I run them with a solid roller on induction hardened shafts.
 
Never heard of the comps scuffing or seizing . I run them with a solid roller on induction hardened shafts.

They are notorious for it, the early UNBUSHED ones. They are frequently for sale on Ebay, scuffed. They can be bushed to repair/update them, of course, which is what Comp Cams eventually did. Who knows if unbushed ones might live with proper oiling or better quality oil, etc. I have even seen a few unbushed Iskys or iron W2s that were scuffed so....
 
They are notorious for it, the early UNBUSHED ones. They are frequently for sale on Ebay, scuffed. They can be bushed to repair/update them, of course, which is what Comp Cams eventually did. Who knows if unbushed ones might live with proper oiling or better quality oil, etc. I have even seen a few unbushed Iskys or iron W2s that were scuffed so....
273 could scuff.
Must have the correct shafts that have the oil feed holes in the right places to oil the adjusters, pressure point of the rockers bore aimed towards the spring.
I did buy mine cheap in 2006, like new $200 in murrieta ca...same day grabbed a rpm intake for 75, like new. Was a good day.
I've run them ever since. I replaced the Ohio crankshaft rockers with the comps.
I have some bushed 273 rockers as well from mopar performance "bushed for over 7000 rpm" with isky adjusters. Good stuff.
I also have some older prw,the flared pin roller ones. They dont clear springs with a od bigger than 1.460
 
273 could scuff.
Must have the correct shafts that have the oil feed holes in the right places to oil the adjusters, pressure point of the rockers bore aimed towards the spring.
I did buy mine cheap in 2006, like new $200 in murrieta ca...same day grabbed a rpm intake for 75, like new. Was a good day.
I've run them ever since. I replaced the Ohio crankshaft rockers with the comps.
I have some bushed 273 rockers as well from mopar performance "bushed for over 7000 rpm" with isky adjusters. Good stuff.
I also have some older prw,the flared pin roller ones. They dont clear springs with a od bigger than 1.460

You'd be surprised how many shafts are installed wrong, even by die hard MoPar freaks. LOL. I like the 273s, have used them (unbushed) with better adjusters to over 7000rpm with no problems (flat tappet cams with 1.43"ish springs). I brake cylinder FlexHone them and polish the pads. I especially FlexHone the bushing-less Crane/MP aluminum rockers, they are usually too tight and that anodizing sheds oil (my theory). People bash the Ohio needle bearing rockers, but a friend insisted on using them on his 446" RB and has run it forever, with 8005A Isky double springs and a .588" Lunati solid flat tappet. Did a freshen-up after 3 seasons and everything (except the #4 main bearing, it was in the copper some) looked fine, no needle pitting or visible shaft flaking.
 
Many rockers are inconsistent on there ratios...might be 1.5 or 1.58 or 1.53... I have read even the brand name offerings have their issues.

That said most import brands are not built to live with increased valve spring pressures.
 
Many rockers are inconsistent on there ratios...might be 1.5 or 1.58 or 1.53... I have read even the brand name offerings have their issues.

That said most import brands are not built to live with increased valve spring pressures.


I actually varied the ratio on my PRW rockers. They were slightly over 1.6 under load (1.61 to be pick the pepper out of the fly poop) and with the B3 correction kit I lost all of about .008 lift from lobe lift thought the pushrods and rockers.

Pretty dang nice really.
 
PRW and Speedmaster/Pro Comp stainless steel rockers....

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Any body using the Stainless roller rockers that Mancini sells. Are these any good or Chinese crap?

GM,
Here is a link to the PRW's that I purchased, it is a complete kit. No issues after 500 miles, very quite, did need to slightly add some clearance on the back side due to the retainer diameter. They adjusted great with custom length comp magnum push rods due to decked block.

FYI,
Marion

Performance Quotient PQx Platinum Series Shaft-Mount Rocker Arms 3331812

I think that I caught these on sale 2 years ago. I'm happy with the selection
 
I actually varied the ratio on my PRW rockers. They were slightly over 1.6 under load (1.61 to be pick the pepper out of the fly poop) and with the B3 correction kit I lost all of about .008 lift from lobe lift thought the pushrods and rockers.

Pretty dang nice really.

Are yours for ball/cup pushrods or ball/ball?
 
Are yours for ball/cup pushrods or ball/ball?


Ball and ball. For the W2 heads I have the MP rockers with the ball adjuster for a cup pushrod. I'm going to send them to Mike at B3 and have him convert them to cup adjusters. And I think he said he can install bushings in them.

I don't mind running aluminum on the shaft, but since they are there, might as well do that too. It's a nice upgrade.
 
You can get a quality part from over seas. The problem is getting them to make it and make it cheap enough for people to purchase them.
We spec it, they bid it and then they build it to maximize their profit, ie substandard metallurgy, loose tolerances, higher speed machining for substandard surface finish,crappy anodizing, etc.. IF the QC is there on our end (buyer does random lot testing) then no problem. Seen vids of a pallet of Chinese bricks that turned out to be compressed fired manure painted orange. They will rip you off, its their business nature. Ask anyone that has dealt with China or Indian manufacturing. This quote came from a Chinese expatriot.
 
If we or you spec a rocker arm, that’s what you should get and if they do what there supposed to do, there would be no problem.

The problem is, MONEY & LAZINESS on both parties with no one to blame but themselves.

If the American company doesn’t do there due diligence in checking the integrity and quality of the part speced that they ordered, agreed to and signed for, then shame on them. Bad for us. And the manufacturers of crap parts, well, shame on them but also good for them. Since they screwed the pouch and made out like a bandit and are no laughing all the way to the bank.

See! They did learn Business well.
 
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