This is what I have so far. More will follow in a few days.
Part 1
Here you go.......have fun like I did!
Parts List:
Fully Adjustable (LH & RH)
- 1-1/8" Rod Ends
- 1.5" 1/4" Wall Upper & Lower Bars
- 3" Wide Bushings 8
- All Hardware Use Grade
8- 9/16 4 1/2" Bolts
16- 9/16 Flat Washers
8- 9/16 Lock Washers
8- 9/16 Lock Nuts
8- 9/16 Regular Nuts for mock up
Lower Link Tabs are cut for 3" Axle
Upper Link Tabs need to be cut for 3.5" Axle to turn on the angle
Upper Shock Tabs with 1/2" Hole in them
Lower Bars - 21" (Center to Center of Bushing Holes)
Upper Bars - 9.5" (Center to Center of Bushing Holes)
36"x1.75"x3/16 wall minimum for Shock/Link Tower
16"x36"x1/8th" Plate steel for Link Boxes, Plates for shock tower
Boxing and Gusset material etc, etc
2 of these
http://www.jegs.com/i/Air-Ride/029/A113/10001/-1
1 of these comes with 2 in the package along with upper shock bolts
This only comes with the BILLET shock bracket.....dont get all tripped up like I did.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Air-Ride/029/SKW0901/10001/-1
8-zerk fittings, Tap and Drill bit from ACE HARDWARE
That is pretty much it. You can contact
whynotfab.com , create a user name and let Ricky know what you want him to supply. He will take care of it and you will have your link set up in a few days cut to your spec's.
Louis
Part 2
More........
I will do a follow up on measurements etc. It will take me a day or two. One problem I see is if your frame rails are different from production flaws it could end up wrong. Also I used a B Body Housing so my measurements would be based on them. As you start to put it together it makes more sense as an as Built Project, that is how I did mine anyway. It took me about 20-25 Hrs total to mock the whole thing up.
The pieces for the Link Boxes are as follows.
The finished product is 3 1/16 inside box measurements by about 12" long to catch a weld across the existing frame on the radius point.
4 pcs 5" x16 Fine tuned to fit
3 pcs 3" x16 Fine tuned to fit
I followed the frame rail by just clamping the first piece in the cut opening of the rail and using a scratch all to mark it. As you can see in the picture I held it down some and radius'd the edges to cover the bushing completely with the Plate. Most guys dont do that but I wanted the whole bushing to ride on material and not air. I used the hole in the existing frame rail to set the first link mounting hole and split the measurements I think 1 3/8's apart or whatever makes them the same distance apart, and I built them IN PLACE, not on a bench.
Louis
