Drum brake weights interfering with cragar ss wheels

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crawsfire

crawsfire

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Hard to believe these drums are so off that they require huge weights spot welded to the outer drum. My cragar ss wheels wont mount flush. Do you guys grind them down or remove them completely?
thanks
 
Well, I have been removing them since 70's without any ill effects.
 
If you remove them you could have the wheels and tires ballanced on the car.
 
I had to remove them in my 66 to mount these wheels. I didn't pay close attention when I first bolted them on. I didn't make it out of the parking lot before knowing something was wrong. Fronts only.

10-18-19.jpg
 
kursplat said:
does any place still do that?
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I would expect high end / performance shops have the tools.

I have never had it done. But removing 1/2 a pound of iron from the side of a balanced drum would result in a bouncy ride
 
Can someone explain specifically why weights were put on the drums?... I mean I figure it is for balancing but the weight would have to be mounted before the wheels so does that mean the weight is just to balance the brake drum itself?...
I have a vibration over 45mph that I am trying to eliminate. Pulled the rear passenger wheel and looks like there is a weight attached to the brake drum.
Tempted to pull the weight off but like to get some input from someone who knows more than me (that would include just about anyone -lol).
 
Fishing68 said:
Can someone explain specifically why weights were put on the drums?... I mean I figure it is for balancing but the weight would have to be mounted before the wheels so does that mean the weight is just to balance the brake drum itself
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You hit the nail on the head.

What I can't understand is how they can cast a drum and it be so much out of Ballance that it requires 2 - 2" long 3/8" thick weights
 
Dana67Dart said:
You hit the nail on the head.

What I can't understand is how they can cast a drum and it be so much out of Balance that it requires 2 - 2" long 3/8" thick weights
Click to expand...
Exactly. I have a little vibration but I couldn't tell you if it's the tires and wheels I installed (they were balanced already but I didn't check them) or something else. Whatever it is, it's not bad enough to worry about.
 
Thanks... well I will leave the weight on for now and focus on checking over the most simple items to review. Was under the car today checking the steering linkage and the drive shaft including u-joints and differential + transmission yokes. Noticed two things: 1) Idler arm is sloppy at the K frame mount - looks like the bushing has been squashed/worn out. 2) the output shaft at the transmission has some play.
Thinking the vibration is primarily in the driveline as it is most prevalent at speeds 50+ and goes away if I put the transmission in neutral and continue revving. Vibe is only a tiny bit in steering wheel and primarily in seat of pants.
So thinking there may be a bushing in the end of the transmission that is worn?
...Anyone know if that is what keeps the transmission output shaft/yoke from wobbling during rotation?
(Maybe I should start a new thread- Sorry don't want to hijack this thread but may be useful for others trying to diagnose vibration issues)
 
Fishing68 said:
...
So thinking there may be a bushing in the end of the transmission that is worn?
...Anyone know if that is what keeps the transmission output shaft/yoke from wobbling during rotation?
(Maybe I should start a new thread- Sorry don't want to hijack this thread but may be useful for others trying to diagnose vibration issues)
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$4.83. part #066
36066.jpg


Trans Parts Online 727 727 Transmission Parts
 
Thanks Pishta. Appreciate the link. Will do some checking on install procedure. Any tricks?... Thinking I should also change out the seal at the same time. looks like there are a couple to choose from.
 
Dana67Dart said:
You hit the nail on the head.

What I can't understand is how they can cast a drum and it be so much out of Ballance that it requires 2 - 2" long 3/8" thick weights
Click to expand...

I had just one of those on a front drum way back. A spot weld on either end holding it on. It practically fell off for me. Two rears recently purchased had none at all.
I didn't check mine then, but it might be interesting to know how much runout your uncut outer drum displays. Maybe an off center condition is causing the imbalance. After that what's left? The casting density?
 
Dana67Dart said:
You hit the nail on the head.

What I can't understand is how they can cast a drum and it be so much out of Ballance that it requires 2 - 2" long 3/8" thick weights
Click to expand...
Because only the inside is machined. The sand cast outside is left as-cast. There is probably a lot of run-out between the ID and the OD. The factory made them as fast as possible. Probably faster/easier to add balance weights later than it would have been to machine them more carefully on the lathes.
 
Most of the aftermarket drums for newer cars and trucks have flat spots milled in the drum in a spot which i assume is to balance, you shouldnt have a issue removing the weights.
 
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