10's on $5,000 ?

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I agree with the cheap motor 440 combos that use all stock parts. I helped a friend on some decisions for a cheap build and his 3800 lb roadrunner went 11.40s first outing with stock stamped rockers and stock pushrods using a 268. @ .050 duration .540 lift hydraulic cam and plunge cut ( not even bowl ported!) 452 heads from Herb McCandless. Carry some extra rockers and pushrods, and use a low oil pressure switch to cut power if you throw a lifter out of a hole Compression was hi (11/1?) With kb reverse dome pistons but it ran fine on pump 93! Take 600 lbs out of the equation and wulla, tens!!!!! A cheap stripped A body with frame connecters and some messaged stock springs might do the trick. I would look for the cheapest stiff shock you can find. Maybe a 3/4 ton shock might fit? Shackles have a huge effect on rear rise. Longer shackles that angle towards the back at the bottom really increase rise and may create too much. I used a mall to modify the front lip on a duster back in the 70s(hey, it was a boneyard body!) and you can get some big tires under there then! For a cheap rear a 8.8 with 4.10 stock gears works if you can narrow it and put a short axle on the drivers side. Those may be found in Ford Explorers 1996 to 2005? The axle is about $100 from rock auto.
 
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Question here is how much of a street car does this need to be?........2.76's>3.55's>4.10's?....converter, 2500>3000>4000stall?.

Doing just a few calcs here to give you some idea of what your looking at, these are the on track hp no's you'll need for 10.90's@122>
@3000lbs all in= 450 on track hp with a 1.52 60ft.....(low comp 400 with good heads etc. poss)
@3300lbs all in= 495>>>>>>>> 1.52 60....440
@3500lbs all in= 525>>>>>>>> 1.52 60....440

If you don't have a set up that can 60ft near those no's because of the street limitations you impose on yourself (gear/stall) you can add to those hp no's, or loose anywhere from .3>.5 or more sec's in ET. I know your not into any of this stuff 318, however these are reasonably accurate no's to follow, and will give you an idea of how much power you will need to make and the 60 needed and therefore help in choosing the parts needed, we all know the combo's needed to make these numbers so shouldn't be too hard. You probably know all this but perhaps it may have some use and it is more or less something that is set in stone as it were of what will be needed for you to achieve your goal with whatever you end up with for a car, motor and the chassis set up. You may not like what you see or agree but it is what it is as an NA only set up.
 
Question here is how much of a street car does this need to be?........2.76's>3.55's>4.10's?....converter, 2500>3000>4000stall?.

Doing just a few calcs here to give you some idea of what your looking at, these are the on track hp no's you'll need for 10.90's@122>
@3000lbs all in= 450 on track hp with a 1.52 60ft.....(low comp 400 with good heads etc. poss)
@3300lbs all in= 495>>>>>>>> 1.52 60....440
@3500lbs all in= 525>>>>>>>> 1.52 60....440

If you don't have a set up that can 60ft near those no's because of the street limitations you impose on yourself (gear/stall) you can add to those hp no's, or loose anywhere from .3>.5 or more sec's in ET. I know your not into any of this stuff 318, however these are reasonably accurate no's to follow, and will give you an idea of how much power you will need to make and the 60 needed and therefore help in choosing the parts needed, we all know the combo's needed to make these numbers so shouldn't be too hard. You probably know all this but perhaps it may have some use and it is more or less something that is set in stone as it were of what will be needed for you to achieve your goal with whatever you end up with for a car, motor and the chassis set up. You may not like what you see or agree but it is what it is as an NA only set up.
thanks. I had already gone over most of the numbers. Had no intentions of using 2.76's or stock converter. My stock 360 with stock converter and 2.94's cut's consistent mid 1.8's in a 3200 lbs Duster (without driver), so yes, I'm planning on a much better 60 ft with a lot more motor, gear, and converter
 
mmmm...I must admit he does have a knack of generating posts on a thread..perhaps I should post up a "what it will it run thread" on a totally new BB combo that we are going to be running this year BUT with all details....prob won't get anywhere near the replies:)
 
Big heads with big valves on top of low compression with small cubes?

A stock 400 with 75cc heads and .040 gaskets works out to 8.4:1cr(8.8:1 with a .020 steel shim gasket).

Doesn’t sound like a winning formula to me....... but it’s not my money.

It’ll require more gear and more stall, and be less forgiving on cam selection.
 
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Boight what??.. aluminum heads two months ago LOL...
I ment why I was commenting, one thing I do get a kick out of threads like this is when guys say it takes this much power to go this fast at this weight etc...some how I've never had it that easy. Get the Moroso speed power calculator out and the car "should " be going this fast and its struggling to run what it does. Theres only been a few times in thirty years that I've found fifty hp solutions, maybe its because you apply what you learned last time to the next time before there is a problem.
The challenge of building a 10 second car with no money soulds cool, makes me wonder how close I could get.
 
Get the Moroso speed power calculator out and the car "should " be going this fast and its struggling to run what it does

My experience is that when the numbers don’t work out, it falls into one of these catagories.......
-the dyno numbers are happy, or if the motor wasn’t dynoed, it doesn’t make what it was “supposed to” make
-actual track weather conditions are way way below “standard” conditions
-the “car” has issues

Usually....... it ends up being a combination of all 3.

My friends Stocker will beat the Moroso chart even in the middle of summer.
It just takes someone willing to keep tweaking the combo...... which means buying and testing a bunch of parts........ most of which will end up not working.

Most bracket guys bolt it all together....... and then iiwii.
 
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My experience is that when the numbers don’t work out, it falls into one of these catagories.......
-the dyno numbers are happy, or if the motor wasn’t dynoed, it doesn’t make what it was “supposed to” make
-actual track weather conditions are way way below “standard” conditions
-the “car” has issues

Usually....... it ends up being a combination of all 3.

My friends Stocker will beat the Moroso chart even in the middle of summer.
It just takes someone willing to keep tweaking the combo...... which means buying and testing a bunch of parts........ most of which will end up not working.

Most bracket guys bolt it all together....... and then iiwii.



Yep. If you dyno the stuff and actually KNOW what the car really weighs (on a scale not designed to weight 150,000 pounds) the Moroso slide rule is pretty close.

Like you said, a good Stocker or Super Stocker can beat it, but those guys are not your average racers, and they actually test, know their weight and run enough gear and converter (or clutch) that they can get the most out of their horsepower.
 
mmmm...I must admit he does have a knack of generating posts on a thread..perhaps I should post up a "what it will it run thread" on a totally new BB combo that we are going to be running this year BUT with all details....prob won't get anywhere near the replies:)
I just look to share the experience :)
 
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Big heads with big valves on top of low compression with small cubes?

A stock 400 with 75cc heads and .040 gaskets works out to 8.4:1cr(8.8:1 with a .020 steel shim gasket).

Doesn’t sound like a winning formula to me....... but it’s not my money.

It’ll require more gear and more stall, and be less forgiving on cam selection.
Isn't this what makes it fun? I mean, I could just buy a 575 hp crate engine and take the fun right out of it. :rolleyes:
 
I think guys get into trouble as soon as the first compromise is made fro money or street etc.. The cars just not going to run up to its potential.
 
I ment why I was commenting, one thing I do get a kick out of threads like this is when guys say it takes this much power to go this fast at this weight etc...some how I've never had it that easy. Get the Moroso speed power calculator out and the car "should " be going this fast and its struggling to run what it does. Theres only been a few times in thirty years that I've found fifty hp solutions, maybe its because you apply what you learned last time to the next time before there is a problem.
The challenge of building a 10 second car with no money soulds cool, makes me wonder how close I could get.

My experience is that when the numbers don’t work out, it falls into one of these catagories.......
-the dyno numbers are happy, or if the motor wasn’t dynoed, it doesn’t make what it was “supposed to” make
-actual track weather conditions are way way below “standard” conditions
-the “car” has issues

Usually....... it ends up being a combination of all 3.

My friends Stocker will beat the Moroso chart even in the middle of summer.
It just takes someone willing to keep tweaking the combo...... which means buying and testing a bunch of parts........ most of which will end up not working.

Most bracket guys bolt it all together....... and then iiwii.
I've never dyno'd an engine. Never will. ET slip works for me. Only calculator I use is the 1320 divided by my MPH to let me know how well the car works. I mean, all the gurus said my stock 360 Duster with 2.45's, stock manifolds, stock converter was a 15 second car. It went 13.9s. I added 2.94's and headers and it goes 13.3's consistently. Yep, same as a factory 440 6 pack car with 4.10 Dana. Hmmm.
 
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^^^^^^ It all started decades ago when people substituted hotrodding for $$$, now so many substitute $$$$$ instead of using hotrodding. But speed costs money, who can go the fastest for the least $$$$$ !!!??????????????????????///////////////
Divide the amount of fun into the number of $$$$ spent and the answer is!????????????????////
 
I think guys get into trouble as soon as the first compromise is made fro money or street etc.. The cars just not going to run up to its potential.
yes, street cars are not nearly as easy as a dedicated bracket car
 
^^^^^^ It all started decades ago when people substituted hotrodding for $$$, now so many substitute $$$$$ instead of using hotrodding. But speed costs money, who can go the fastest for the least $$$$$ !!!??????????????????????///////////////
Divide the amount of fun into the number of $$$$ spent and the answer is!????????????????////
great post!
 
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