Battery relocation- is it possible to just use "remote battery posts" in the engine bay?

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MRGTX

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I see these advertised as "jump starting posts" but can they be used as a standard part of the electrical system of the car (and allow you to preserve the original battery cables)?

This might add a bit of weight (a few extra feet of cable) and it might introduce some extra resistance since there will be one more connector in the system.

On the plus side, you could easily convert back to stock if you needed to, depending on the rules of a racing class, etc.

Is there a reason why people don't go this route? Maybe it just looks sloppy?

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Would it be cheaper to buy 2 new cables and keep them on the shelf?

Or, buy a couple of copper welding cable ends and mount them vertically to the battery terminal clamp bolts [5/16''] ? Cover them with rubber hoses!
 
Those are smaller diameter than batter terminals. At least mine are.

I bought the plug in type. (no exposed terminals) I don't like the idea of relying on the caps. I also put mine in the trunk.
 
Those are smaller diameter than batter terminals. At least mine are.

I bought the plug in type. (no exposed terminals) I don't like the idea of relying on the caps. I also put mine in the trunk.

Good point about those being smaller than actual battery terminals. That particular connector might not be a good option then.
As for exposed terminals, that's how they came from the factory, no?
 
Good point about those being smaller than actual battery terminals. That particular connector might not be a good option then.
As for exposed terminals, that's how they came from the factory, no?

yeah, but the factory ones weren't on the bumper.

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I use these. I work on a lot of miller welding equipment and replace a lot of em. Figured they’d work perfectly for remote battery terminals and they do.
 
Hard to see in the pic but....
Red, miller pt#274848
Black, Miller pt#274859
 
I retained all the factory cables and wiring under The hood. I mounted a bulk head for the Pos. cable as seen and ran the positive cables and wires to that. Negative battery grounded to the factory tab on the rear wheel well. The motor has its own ground to the body plus it is on steel mounts. The normally open relay you see is the one wire alternator shut off. Easy peasy!

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Is there a reason why people don't go this route?
I am only guessing, since I have never located a battery to the back. When you put a battery in then back, do you ground the negative terminal to the chassis in the trunk and then ground the engine to the chassis under the hood? If so, the route you are talking about would require running a heavy negative cable from the trunk to the front. probably not big problem since you are already running the positive cable, but that heavy copper wire is rather expensive.
 
Nothing like having wires right above the gas tank. If you smack the rear and the wire grounds out with gas leaking, kiss her goodbye. 55lb weight difference isnt gonna change anything much. If you wanna lighten it, use fiberglass. I realize nhra makes this rule once the car goes so fast but its the most stupid rule they have.
 
When you’re chasing 1/10s of a second moving 55 pounds makes a lot of difference. It’s a great rule. And it’s a rule for race cars not grocery getters.
 
Exactly! While just moving it relocates some weight, it doesnt lessen it. In fact that 30lb of extra 0 gauge is gonna add some. If you go under 12 sec your gonna add a roll cage too but in a street car it doesnt make a lot of sense. Metal can be replaced but once its burnt, its over. The only reason they have the rule is so they can shut off the motor from outside. If you plan on racing under 12 sec then it kinda makes some sense but to each his own. I dont like wires on or near a plastic fuel cell or tank. Thats why i think its stupid. My SRT has 1 in the trunk tho. Go figure..
 
Let's not forget about the weight transferred over the back right tire..
and as far as the negative cable yeah just run a cable down to the frame and then run a cable upfront from the frame up to a post... it's just the positive cable you need a long one...
 
Nothing like having wires right above the gas tank. If you smack the rear and the wire grounds out with gas leaking, kiss her goodbye. 55lb weight difference isnt gonna change anything much. If you wanna lighten it, use fiberglass. I realize nhra makes this rule once the car goes so fast but its the most stupid rule they have.

It does seem like it would be an issue, but a LOT of cars through time have done it. If it was a big problem we'd see a ton of cars burnt to the ground and we don't.
 
What is does is standardize the process of killing the vehicle electrically. I have been upside down on fire in an off road race truck and I sure was glad the safety guys knew exactly where to look for the kill switch.
 
Lots of great info here.
As for moving the battery to the back, there isn't weight to be saved here at all but weight distribution is a huge deal for any kind of driving. Moving a big chunk of weight from the front to the back is incredibly helpful. Many modern cars come this way including the modern Challenger. Ford cheaped-out on my Mustang but at least they put it toward the rear of the engine bay on the passenger side.

I get that you can ground to the chassis and only run a positive cable to the front...but is that chassis ground reliable? It seems like there are a lot of welds and gaps between the trunk and the engine block.

The standard wisdom is to use a 0 or 1 gauge cable, correct? It seems like all of the battery relocation kits come with 2 gauge cable. I haven't done the math but I have to imagine that this would introduce a considerable amount of resistance.
 
Nothing like having wires right above the gas tank. If you smack the rear and the wire grounds out with gas leaking, kiss her goodbye. 55lb weight difference isnt gonna change anything much. If you wanna lighten it, use fiberglass. I realize nhra makes this rule once the car goes so fast but its the most stupid rule they have.

The pictures above were taken during the build. The battery was put into a battery box after those pics were taken. This was hit pretty darn hard right on the fill tube. No fire and the battery cable was wrapped up in the quarter. If the tank is under the car run the cable in it. If the tank is in the car run the cable under it. One reason rules require a firewall in the trunk if the tank is in there. If this car had a fuel sell in the trunk the cable would run out the bottom of the box trough a large rubber thick grommet. "You have to use your Dipstick Son". Great comercial. LOL

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Lots of great info here.
As for moving the battery to the back, there isn't weight to be saved here at all but weight distribution is a huge deal for any kind of driving. Moving a big chunk of weight from the front to the back is incredibly helpful. Many modern cars come this way including the modern Challenger. Ford cheaped-out on my Mustang but at least they put it toward the rear of the engine bay on the passenger side.

I get that you can ground to the chassis and only run a positive cable to the front...but is that chassis ground reliable? It seems like there are a lot of welds and gaps between the trunk and the engine block.

The standard wisdom is to use a 0 or 1 gauge cable, correct? It seems like all of the battery relocation kits come with 2 gauge cable. I haven't done the math but I have to imagine that this would introduce a considerable amount of resistance.
LOL ... That chassis ground better be "reliable" LOL or your cars going to break in half LOL.. I would venture to say that that's pretty solid from front to back.... Personally I don't know anybody who's ran two cables...
 
LOL ... That chassis ground better be "reliable" LOL or your cars going to break in half LOL.. I would venture to say that that's pretty solid from front to back.... Personally I don't know anybody who's ran two cables...

Ok. Fair point! :D
Never really thought about the quality of the electrical connection through the whole body of the car.
 
The pictures above were taken during the build. The battery was put into a battery box after those pics were taken. This was hit pretty darn hard right on the fill tube. No fire and the battery cable was wrapped up in the quarter. If the tank is under the car run the cable in it. If the tank is in the car run the cable under it. One reason rules require a firewall in the trunk if the tank is in there. If this car had a fuel sell in the trunk the cable would run out the bottom of the box trough a large rubber thick grommet. "You have to use your Dipstick Son". Great comercial. LOL

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Every time I see that picture of your car, I want to cry. I took a real liking to that car after I saw the burnout video a few years ago. nice car !!
 
Every time I see that picture of your car, I want to cry. I took a real liking to that car after I saw the burnout video a few years ago. nice car !!
Its coming along with buying better parts. The motor and trans are re-done. Moly cage and body are here. We want to make the car 1000 lbs lighter. But it has to look the same. As stated before I have to finish and sell the Demon and other Dusters. for the extra cash. I'm getting old and slow and spend to much time sitting in this chair selling and buying things. I just bought a 14k 14ft. goose neck dump trailer for $1000 now that is in the garage getting a restore. Just can't seem to concentrate on one thing. And "Baby its cold outside"
 
I have relocated quite a few batteries to the trunk, works well and I am not at all worried about a rear end collision resulting in a fire as a result. Both my Viper and my 10 Challenger have rear mounted batteries from the factory.. For me it is not about weight transfer as much as it is space in the engine compartment; I like the cleanliness it creates. I also run a battery cut off switch on my batteries which allows me to cut off all of the main power to the car. I have used welding cable (#0) and the last one I used Accel lightening cable in my Cuda. In the last 2 projects I am going to do (my 70 RR and 68 Cuda) I will probably do the same.

As to grounds; yes I run a heavy cable to the frame by the battery, I also ground the engine and run multiple grounds under the dash. I would run the same grounds regardless of where the battery is located.
 
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