Hey guys, I looked for some other threads related to this but couldn’t find anything. I rebuilt my thermal quad recently. All new gaskets, o rings, everything! Got it back on the car and ran OK but noticed the gaskets between each piece wet and some fuel overflowing. I did not adjust the float bowl levels. I’m thinking this is why I’m having the excess fuel. Can someone post some basic directions on how to do this?
Thermo quad float bowl adjustment
- Thread starter Tad
- Start date
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Did you replace the floats? There was a huge batch of brass floats that hit the market that were soldered on the stems upside down. There's a "notch" in the float and that's supposed to end up facing down into the carburetor when assembled, which means the notch would face UP when being assembled with the top upside down. If that made sense.
I believe mine are the black floats if I remember correctly. It’s an early 70s thermo quad
I believe mine are the black floats if I remember correctly. It’s an early 70s thermo quad
I did not replace the floats
Hate to be a downer here but you didn't "overhaul" your carb. You should have checked the floats and adjusted them correctly according to the instructions in the kit. It's all part of doing the job right. I suggest you take it back apart and do it right. If you need another kit, so be it. lesson learned.
I know. I don’t mind taking it apart again to make it right. You are right, Lesson learned
I always replace the black plastic floats with brass ones. I have seen and used the ones RRR is talking about. Just adjust the hight, for whatever you use, per the instructions provided. The plastic ones can eventually soak up gas changing characteristics. The early TQ used brass floats and later changed to black plastic.
So I have the carburetor taken apart again. I mean completely taken apart! I’m wanting to really deep clean it this time. I’ve read that boiling either lemon water or vinegar with the parts is a good way to clean them. Any other suggestions?
Those are good.
Thank you. The carb is specifically a 9126S. I wasn’t sure if there were specific floats for this or if that would work.
The TQ floats work for all TQ's as far as I know. They are measured differently if I remember correctly, but the measurement should be in your kit or with your floats.
pishta
I know I'm right....
Thank you. Are these from a manual? If so which one? I was wondering about a few other adjustments and just general tuning.
pishta
I know I'm right....
naa, just "TQ float spec" on a search.
just got everything back together again. I checked the float measurement which is supposed to be at 23 mm from the base of the gasket to the bottom of the float. Mine was at 32 mm. Way out of spec. I believe these are actually new floats and I never set them. Lesson learned.
TQ brass floats, instruction that came with a kit stated 13/16. Also have issue with no idle mixture adjustment, any suggestions.
i disassembled the 9096 and attempted a good clean, tough idle at start, must feed the throttle, after warm up, engine holds firm 750rpm with 15 in vaccum, really good throttle response, but extremely rich and stinky exhaust.
vehicle is 1977 Dodge truck. W100 1/2 ton 4x4 Powerwagon
i disassembled the 9096 and attempted a good clean, tough idle at start, must feed the throttle, after warm up, engine holds firm 750rpm with 15 in vaccum, really good throttle response, but extremely rich and stinky exhaust.
vehicle is 1977 Dodge truck. W100 1/2 ton 4x4 Powerwagon
Dfr360cuda
Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.
I bought my 360 Cuda back in 78. Added headers, Torker and some other stuff. Kept the Thermoquad. I changed jets, metering rods, everything they told you to do in Hot Rod mag. Never noticed a difference.
Dfr360cuda
Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.
Back then I bought a Strip Kit. It had a bunch of different jets and metering rods. It also has a gauge to adjust the floats. I’ll dig it out and post a pic.
Tad and everyone else…. Those are general settings that should work just fine. Throughout the years the floats had various height settings. The fuel level in the bowl has an effect on a rich or lean condition at idle and somewhat at cruise. These various float levels were changed year to year and vehicle to vehicle as needed to have the engine just right when new.
Should you change jets and rods around and find that it is rich or lean at idle but not really so on acceleration or cruise, the float level is the issue. Too much fuel equals rich and to little is lean at idle. Even though your changing jets and rods around to make driving good, idle suffers.
Same deal with Holleys.
A lot of wrong info;
- the brass float shown in post #14 is upside, & the wrong float level is quoted [ should be 1" to 1 1/16" ].
- there is nothing wrong with the nitrophyl [ black ] floats. They are more reliable, more buoyant & I always use them when I have a choice. The float level for these is usually 27/32" or 29/32". - I have these carbs are NOT sensitive to float settings.
- in the main black body; there are two black o rings that sit in the recess adjacent to where the pri jets are screwed in. If these are missing, have gone hard, fail to seal, the carb WILL flood.
- these crazy o rings are an 'x' cross section. The last time I used them was 1975 [ or was it 1976? ]. I use standard o rings, 3/8" OD, 1/16" wall thickness. They last longer & do not leak.
- the brass float shown in post #14 is upside, & the wrong float level is quoted [ should be 1" to 1 1/16" ].
- there is nothing wrong with the nitrophyl [ black ] floats. They are more reliable, more buoyant & I always use them when I have a choice. The float level for these is usually 27/32" or 29/32". - I have these carbs are NOT sensitive to float settings.
- in the main black body; there are two black o rings that sit in the recess adjacent to where the pri jets are screwed in. If these are missing, have gone hard, fail to seal, the carb WILL flood.
- these crazy o rings are an 'x' cross section. The last time I used them was 1975 [ or was it 1976? ]. I use standard o rings, 3/8" OD, 1/16" wall thickness. They last longer & do not leak.
Post #18.
Wrong float level. Not surprised it is rich, smelly. 1" or 1 1/16" for brass floats.
Another problem that can be hard to diagnose. On the main body, under the pri jets are two black 'cups'. Held in place with white epoxy if original. These can leak if handled roughly. This then allows the corresponding cavity in the base plate to fill with fuel. This gives an overly rich mixture as the throttle blades are opened because this fuel is added to the fuel that has come through the pri jet.
Fix is simple & should be done as a precaution when rebuilding these carbs. Using a Dremel, hacksaw blade or file, grind out a recess where the white epoxy is. Fill with new fuel resistant epoxy.
Wrong float level. Not surprised it is rich, smelly. 1" or 1 1/16" for brass floats.
Another problem that can be hard to diagnose. On the main body, under the pri jets are two black 'cups'. Held in place with white epoxy if original. These can leak if handled roughly. This then allows the corresponding cavity in the base plate to fill with fuel. This gives an overly rich mixture as the throttle blades are opened because this fuel is added to the fuel that has come through the pri jet.
Fix is simple & should be done as a precaution when rebuilding these carbs. Using a Dremel, hacksaw blade or file, grind out a recess where the white epoxy is. Fill with new fuel resistant epoxy.
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