stock or hv oil pump

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Notching the bores for rod/bolt clearance for 4" crank is always fun. Do the link bar clearance in the valley as well is always a good idea if a solid roller goes in.

Ever have the one rear lifter boss crack and break off?


No I haven’t but we had a lifter bar break on a set of 828-16 lifters in my sons 360 that ran 6.54 trashing the whole engine. About 50 runs on those lifters. This weeks project. Bam lifters fit with zero grinding
 
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It’s out on my scrap pile now and very hard to see the hours I had in this one to get Comp lifters in it. Block is also tubed.
 
I have that same lifter and about to fire the engine in the next week or so.
Your making me nervous.
 
MV-72HV every build and dont forget the mopar black spring. Always 60-80 psi depending on rpms. They need atleast 10 psi over rpms. 70psi for 6k. If you tach 6000 and only have 50 psi, you are burning up your bearings.
 
Since windage is part of the discussion I'll throw this in. I was a tad shocked at the 42 HP assertion. Still wondering if it could be a typo (or a paid ad by Moroso). If real, every stroker should get a deep pan. I don't know if the Magnum truck pan would qualify. I'm guessing not. At least its a rear sump. I would think a windage tray of some sort is also in order.
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I just ground some casting flash. I had two thoughts. Mainly, some looked as if it could break loose and cause trouble. Then, the machinist will see I'm paying attention.
I did also find a small casting defect right in a corner of the oil pan rail that could predispose to a crack. It was ground smooth.

Szilagyi talks about a hole to oil the fuel pump eccentric but no mention of chain oiling.
Of course no fuel pump on the Magnum but does it have the same chain oiling issue?
 
seen the effects of standard pump/ high pressure vs HV pumps a few times in different engines with varying clearances.
I will stick with a standard pump with high pressure spring on my street car. 45 psi at hot idle and 70 psi at 2000 rpm and up.
Stock m72 does that on its own.
Yee haw
 
The Milodon Road Race pan is nice, but required me to notch my K-member for clearance. Check your headers for pan clearance also. I had to dimple my oil pan so the main studs would not hold the pan up off the pan rail. I used a Superformance pan gaskets. with good result and no leaks.

If you have a Magnum block and are using an LA oil pan, be sure to address the front timing cover mismatch issues the two set-ups have. (see pics)

Run a windage tray and/or crank scrapper, and verify your dip stick oil level calibration.

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The stock Chrysler 360 car oil pan (4 qt?) is a joke for a high performance motor. This is the pan I chose with the Milodon p/u and a 72HV pump. Should I stroke/boost this baby I'm ready for the added demands. But even as, is the stock pan/pump has got to be cavitating or running on the edge during launches, long pulls, hard turns. The P/U and the pump work great together, not sure about in a stock setup, but who is to argue with MOPAR and their testing, I don't think that they would fabricate results.
 
The stock Chrysler 360 car oil pan (4 qt?) is a joke for a high performance motor. This is the pan I chose with the Milodon p/u and a 72HV pump. Should I stroke/boost this baby I'm ready for the added demands. But even as, is the stock pan/pump has got to be cavitating or running on the edge during launches, long pulls, hard turns. The P/U and the pump work great together, not sure about in a stock setup, but who is to argue with MOPAR and their testing, I don't think that they would fabricate results.
I ran that pan and pickup in my Dart, before going to the super stock oil pan.
I moved away from a Hamburger pan, as I figured the oil would be moved out and away from the crank with that pan, and it was a little less deep.
What I didn’t foresee was the headers hit the damn pan something fierce had to beat the sucker up, I wasn’t modifying my headers as they were Hooker super comps.
 
Rusty/All,

The limiting dimension on the oil pump inlet and flow performance is the "inner" diameter of the feed tube. Not the Hole in the pump. The outer diameter of the tube is restricted by the pump housing inlet hole. Now there is a limit obviously as to how thin to make the feed tube without it fracturing due to load or harmonics etc to accept a Melling Pump female inlet ID.

"In general, the flow rate increases proportional to the square of the inside diameter, hence the flow rate is directly proportional to the area of pipe cross-section. The larger the diameter, the greater flow." I'm sure we agree on this.

I found a calculator online and used .375 and .425 tube diameters as examples flowing 10 feet per second. The .375 diameter flowed 3.44 gallons per minute (GPM) and the .425 flowed 4.42 gpm. That's a one gallon increase in a minute by increasing the oil pickup tube "inner" diameter by only .050 thousands. BTW these again are made up parameters I do not know the actual dimensions.

FLOW RATE CALCULATOR

FYI,
Marion
 
Rusty/All,

The limiting dimension on the oil pump inlet and flow performance is the "inner" diameter of the feed tube. Not the Hole in the pump. The outer diameter of the tube is restricted by the pump housing inlet hole. Now there is a limit obviously as to how thin to make the feed tube without it fracturing due to load or harmonics etc to accept a Melling Pump female inlet ID.

"In general, the flow rate increases proportional to the square of the inside diameter, hence the flow rate is directly proportional to the area of pipe cross-section. The larger the diameter, the greater flow." I'm sure we agree on this.

I found a calculator online and used .375 and .425 tube diameters as examples flowing 10 feet per second. The .375 diameter flowed 3.44 gallons per minute (GPM) and the .425 flowed 4.42 gpm. That's a one gallon increase in a minute by increasing the oil pickup tube "inner" diameter by only .050 thousands. BTW these again are made up parameters I do not know the actual dimensions.

FLOW RATE CALCULATOR

FYI,
Marion


I can't get that calculator to work.

Can you do the calculations for a 15/16 inner diameter tube? I also think you need to slow the velocity down a bit. 10 feet a second sounds awful fast to me.

TIA
YR
 
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You could always get fancy like one of our members did on a block and parts I bought from him a few years ago. I forget what he goes by on here but I got him to sign up.
 
Bummer.
I hate comp cams anything.
Morell lifters for me.
Had a friend that owns a 1969 pontiac grand prix with a hot rodded 400 pontiac motor. He went thru 2 junk comp cams! And he's a professional mechanic! So he was doing cam break in as recommended. He got fed up and went to a crane grind. All was well!!
 
Has anybody ever drilled or cut a hole in the webbing of the mains so that there is air flow between the mains?
 
I think some guys are over thinking this. An LA small block will take a lot of horsepower with almost zero work. I don’t think you really want to go drilling holes in what is probably the weakest part of the block. Not trying to be a smart *** but hot air doesn’t cool very well.
 
I think some guys are over thinking this. An LA small block will take a lot of horsepower with almost zero work. I don’t think you really want to go drilling holes in what is probably the weakest part of the block. Not trying to be a smart *** but hot air doesn’t cool very well.

My understanding is that the holes equalize or balances the pressure produced by the up and down movement of the pistons.
Never tried it just something I heard.
 
I think some guys are over thinking this. An LA small block will take a lot of horsepower with almost zero work. I don’t think you really want to go drilling holes in what is probably the weakest part of the block. Not trying to be a smart *** but hot air doesn’t cool very well.
My dad worked for a chrysler/dodge dealer from 1963-1979. He worked on 340 6 packs hemis 340 demons, etc. He never saw any have issues with oiling. All were stock and run hard especially the 340's. He did have some come in that blew a rod but he says it was overreved or just plain abuse!
 
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