100 Dollar Hemi!

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Scott's dart

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I just picked up a Hemi out of a 2011 truck for 100 bucks Canadian so like 75 American! The guy said it was running rough so they replaced it without checking what was wrong! Initial inspection looks good so far but I only had time to take off the valve covers and one head! I know the lifters are known to go bad so that's what I was going to check first! Any other reasons it would run rough that anyone can think of? Either way I was willing to take the bet for just 100 bucks! Lol
 
check valve height without rockers. if they are all even using a straight edge, your good on a common dropped valve seat.
 
check valve height without rockers. if they are all even using a straight edge, your good on a common dropped valve seat.
I thought that was the earlier Hemis? Or did it happen on the Eagles as well?
 
I thought that was the earlier Hemis? Or did it happen on the Eagles as well?
Way more common on the early. 100 to 1 it's the camshaft. Super common on the Eagles. Either that, or, maybe it just needed a tune up!!! Lol, I doubt it. The valve tips are probably wore a little. Common with 150 plus thousand miles. All in all, you did well. You could sell the heads(why would you?!!), and get four times your money back.
 
Thanks everyone for the input! I just about bought one for 1300 on Wednesday so i guess good things come to those who wait!
 
Thanks everyone for the input! I just about bought one for 1300 on Wednesday so i guess good things come to those who wait!
I'm guessing for 1300, that one is in a lot better condition!
 
Yes, most likely a bad lifter / cam lobe (or more) situation. FCA was replacing cams / lifters for the longest time, but more recently I've been told they are now replacing the whole engine. Also been told they've fixed the problem on '18 up 5.7s. We'll see...
 
I finally got around to taking out apart and here's the culprit! It was on cylinder 3! Hopefully that's the only thing wrong with it!
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Tear it down and thouroghly clean it. Chances are good the bearings are good yet. Has been my experience, anyway. Good luck!
 
So I haven't seen much about this part, from what I gather it's the oil control valve for VVT and MDS? I plan on using a Holley Terminator and deleting all that stuff, do I still need the oil control valve?
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So I haven't seen much about this part, from what I gather it's the oil control valve for VVT and MDS? I plan on using a Holley Terminator and deleting all that stuff, do I still need the oil control valve?View attachment 1715469386
It is the oil control valve for the VVT. The MDS is the other four solenoids that you removed already. No you wouldn't need it. You'll have to lock the cam phaser(upper cam gear, it's three main pieces) to prevent timing issues. Stanke Motorsports makes a billet plug for the VVT valve. Or just reuse the actual valve as a plug. Make sure you use the NON-MDS plugs for their respective cavaties.
 
It is the oil control valve for the VVT. The MDS is the other four solenoids that you removed already. No you wouldn't need it. You'll have to lock the cam phaser(upper cam gear, it's three main pieces) to prevent timing issues. Stanke Motorsports makes a billet plug for the VVT valve. Or just reuse the actual valve as a plug. Make sure you use the NON-MDS plugs for their respective cavaties.

Okay great! Thanks!!
 
Tear it down and thouroghly clean it. Chances are good the bearings are good yet. Has been my experience, anyway. Good luck!

Here's the wasted lobe, the cam bearings and main bearings are also shot, I only took one rod bearing off and it looked good but I may just replace everything. What brand bearings do you guys prefer? And I've been seeing that the factory used lots of different bearings, is there a particular one I need?
IMG_20200213_162417.jpg
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That's pickled! For bearings, I've used factory, Engine-Tech, and Clevite. Had luck with all. Pick one for your budget and intended purpose of the engine. Be sure to measure journals to know where you're at.
 
Not sure the intent of the build. One thing is, the Eagle 5.7 falls on it face about 6,100 rpm in stock form, this I know from past experience.

I really like the 274 cam, and if I was going max power or had to buy a $500 cam, that would be my route.

However, my goal was best dollar to HP, so I chose the factory Mopar 6.4 stick cam non-MDS 05037379BC. I called Arrington and ordered the spring kit to match. These where about the same price as what you listed. This cam works nice with factory VVT and all factory parts (less springs kit, but back to what 408 said, inspect and rebuild heads - I agree and feel this was a must for my motor). Make sure you select correct lifters as well (non-MDS), I used these: Melling Factory Hydraulic Roller Lifters JBK-7521. Note, this factory cam is close to the cam you listed in specs. This cam should be about $275 now if you shop around.

One thing I would recommend is you gap your rings for power adder, even if you do not intend to add one at this time. Nitrous, turbos and superchargers go well on these, and with it cracked open, this is a perfect opportunity to build for the future. - my .02 cents.

And strangely, I like the VVT, all the computers out there manage them, extra bonus... again my .02 cents - This would change if I was going max power or with 274 cam - then its locked -
 
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Good score = the cam was probably getting replaced anyway so not a major loss there. I scored my 6.1 back in 2008 for $1000 and it needed rod bearings / main bearing.

Should be a fun build
 
Buy your bearings from Mopar... good prices on good parts. Get to know your parts guy and he may give you a nice discount.
 
Yeah it turns out this motor is pretty wasted, lots of varnished oil everywhere and the pistons have about 30°-40° of rotation on the rod and then they bind up hard! But oh well still not a loss considering the eagle heads!
 
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