Integral Valve Guide (Broken Boss) Repair Options

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thomasfouraker

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Purchased some R/T heads and noticed when I got home and looked them over a few broken guide bosses in the intake ports. (3 out of the 8). Took them by one cylinder head shop and the owner said they would probably be ok just cleaning up the edges of the broken guide to avoid chipping but suggested liners as well.

Another shop said at least those 3 (and preferably all 8) intake valve guides need to be drilled out and False Guides put in.

Both shops agreed new seats would need to be machined if liners were placed.

Another said it should be fine as is.

I don't want any unnecessary expense but more so want a reliable head and will pay for the proper warranted repair, whatever that might be.

I am fairly new to this and don’t want the machine shops to notice and take advantage of it!

The seller has been solid, accommodating, and helping me anyway they can to get the heads right and on the truck.

Thanks for any advice!

Thomas

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I can get better pictures later with valves removed and measurements of remaining guide length. I think the average length remaining was around 1.3"
 
prh gives the proper fix
couple of things
new guides will not be concentric with the stock ones so bvvc
what kind of shape are the guides in?
do you need new guides anyway?
you could do what the porters do and cut the guides down
and put in inserts if you need guides
does it need ex seats
valves sunk?
magnum heads crack check

lots of conflicting advice you have to sort it out
are these heads worth putting money in for the long term or for long enough to get better heads
if so just clean up and run it
 
prh gives the proper fix
couple of things
new guides will not be concentric with the stock ones so bvvc
what kind of shape are the guides in?
do you need new guides anyway?
you could do what the porters do and cut the guides down
and put in inserts if you need guides
does it need ex seats
valves sunk?
magnum heads crack check

lots of conflicting advice you have to sort it out
are these heads worth putting money in for the long term or for long enough to get better heads
if so just clean up and run it

Thank you both for the advice. These heads were purchased to rectify oem cracked heads with an exhaust valve problem and were intended to be a long term solution for a truck that gets driven 6-8k miles a year. An expected upgrade with a lesser financial obligation that EQ Heads prepped by PIE or Hughes.

The heads were fresh from a machine shop, deck looks perfect. A good looking valve job had been done on all valves and they were literally still in the machine shop plastic bags when I purchased them. According to casting numbers these heads started their life as 1.92 intake valve and at some point were machined to a 2.02. Looks like some port work had been done too to smooth things out.

I will probably go ahead and get all 8 bored out with inserts put in as long as its not too costly. I think the guy told me $20 to replace a guide if I were having multiple done and $10 to cut a seat which would be required for any guide that was replaced. A $250ish investment for piece of mind I suppose.
 
For your kind of build I'd clean up those broken guides and run them- fresh valve job and I would hope that the machine shop checked or did the guides
maybe blend the bottom cut while you have them apart
want to spend a little money I'd cut the guides for viton seals or did you say you have teflon
Teflon's too dry for me and unleaded but YMMV
Is this a roller cam magnum motor? or what
machine shop set up the springs? or new springs?
If it ain't broke don't fix it
RT is a nice head
 
For your kind of build I'd clean up those broken guides and run them- fresh valve job and I would hope that the machine shop checked or did the guides
maybe blend the bottom cut while you have them apart
want to spend a little money I'd cut the guides for viton seals or did you say you have teflon
Teflon's too dry for me and unleaded but YMMV
Is this a roller cam magnum motor? or what
machine shop set up the springs? or new springs?
If it ain't broke don't fix it
RT is a nice head

I thought the heads were really nice, especially compared to the OEM heads. Not sure how much attention from a die grinder these heads have had but I was impressed with how clean smooth the ports are.

One valve was slightly bent. Hard time coming out of the guide but other valves went in and out quite easily. The drill motor runout eyeball test indicated a good bit of wobble to that valve but other valves were seemingly fine.

It appears an OEM style seal was used, a slip over the guide type.

The motor is a roller cam, the heads came with Hughs 1110 Springs that should be good for .550 lift. As far as I know they are new(fish) springs. Don't think I will get that aggressive but would like to throw in a Cam that would compliment the truck and its uses (Towing, Hauling......Idle-5000) without having to get a tune right away. Haven't fixated on cams at this point until the heads are resolved but would love to hear suggestions as to what may suit me. Would like to stay with OEM pushrods and the OEM rockers right now

Hughes suggested this cam:

View attachment 1715470203

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For that use, that is the type of cam I'd go with. 114 LSA, not a ton of duration. Keep your low end range hood and not hurt fuel mileage .
Is this a carb system? Or FI?
 
So your saying your "fresh from the machine shop heads" had a bent valve? If so I would NOT trust any of the work done to them.
 
So your saying your "fresh from the machine shop heads" had a bent valve? If so I would NOT trust any of the work done to them.

Its not grotesquely bent. Enough to notice pulling out of or pushing into the guide.

The seller is sending some other valves that may work, like I said, he's been real good at helping me get the heads right to be ready to bolt on.
 
Its not grotesquely bent. Enough to notice pulling out of or pushing into the guide.

The seller is sending some other valves that may work, like I said, he's been real good at helping me get the heads right to be ready to bolt on.
Then you should have those heads gone over by a REPUTABLE shop, they DEFINITELY dont sound ready to run
 
sorry
did not know you had a magnum Hyd roller and factory MPI
WHAT YEAR COMPUTER which truck
what gears? OD trans?
I have the 92-95 one and it is a POS
That hughes cam is to big for you tow/ haul 0-5000 usage
figure your compression ratio with the new heads
with a couple of different gasket thicknesses
if under 9:1 think of the short Howards
Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 1992 - 2002 Chrysler 5.2L - 5.9L Magnum 800 to 5000 Howards Cams 770225-14 | Howards Cams
with the shorter duration you can squeeze the lobe centers somewhat
but you need to explore carefully with factory computer
figure out what you are going to fix the heads first
do they have a modern multi angle valve job
valves back cut
etc
lots of good options suggested depending on your budget
SlantSix64 put a regrind in his and it worked out well but that cam might be too big for you
There were several one is the MP RT cam and another is called the "sausage"
both are too big for what you want to do
an early 5.2 cam would work or just use the stock 360 cam- this is a 360 or a 318? oh sorry
5.2 or 5.9>
 
Wife's watching jeporady
so I figured the Howards closes the intake at 57 ABDC
It appears that comp wants their cam installed at 108 ICL Howards at 110
Looks like the howard for a computer controlled motor
do a timing diagram and figure the overlaps
114 LCA vs 112 and 8 degrees shorter duration is going to make a big difference
 
Wife's watching jeporady
so I figured the Howards closes the intake at 57 ABDC
It appears that comp wants their cam installed at 108 ICL Howards at 110
Looks like the howard for a computer controlled motor
do a timing diagram and figure the overlaps
114 LCA vs 112 and 8 degrees shorter duration is going to make a big difference

I should probably do a little reading up on camshafts. All that is foreign to me and should probably familiarize myself with it to a greater degree before making a decision. It seems like manufactures have slightly different ways of labeling their cams.
 
I'd get on some of the forums for your kind of Truck
Mine would be gen 1 Dakota
find out what year computer you have and what it will put up with without a tune
Many HR's out there are meant for someone who has converted to carb (and headers)

What we had above was both giving the Lobe Centers LCA
both giving the durations at .006
one giving the intake centerline
which given the duration you can figure the timing
one giving the timing, from which you can figure the intake centerline
now you can compare timing- which is only thing that is important

Problem with Hughes is that they do not give you enough information to compare with anything else
any questions we can walk you through it
but it's like juggling three balls at the same time and keeping your eyes on all of them
you want the intake to close early with that low compression
but the computer wants a good vacuum signal and low overlap (IMHO)
changing the LCA moves both
here you'd think that moving from 114 to narrower would set the intake closed earlier and increase overlap (course you can set intake closed anywhere you want it but can't change overlap)
but here the shorter duration enabled booth intake closed to come out about the same even with the 114 LCA
 
Wyrm, that is why I agree with the 114LSA..... The stock computer is not going to like much overlap. And even a carbed towing use will be better at low RpM with a wider LSA. I have not checked the overlap on the Howard's vs Hughes however. Good thought to lay it all out.
 
right nm
but as you said you have to plot it out with the seat timing
that short duration 108 lca actually looks good with little overlap
both would have the same dynamic compression
 
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