Slant six timing issues

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high miles on the engine? might be a valve sticking at low rpm causing the pop. exhaust valve.
here is a picture of the damper. Damper Doctor.
IMG_0098.JPG
 
So having a hell of a time trying to dial this thing in. Pulled the distributor and noticed that the top portion of the shaft assebly has some play in it it moves up and down. Reluctor has noticeable wear. Can anyone point me to a good rebuild guide on this. I just want to tighten things up.
 
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Hyper_pak said:
high miles on the engine? might be a valve sticking at low rpm causing the pop. exhaust valve.
here is a picture of the damper. Damper Doctor.
View attachment 1715472667
Click to expand...
Engines got about 100,000 miles since last tune up. Cylinders were honed, head was ported and the exhaust/ intake was put on at the time. Evrything else checked out but it ran rough for about 2 months and randomly turned off before i decided to upgrade the ignition. MSD fixed the start up and random shutting off but now i cant get it tuned and i think i need a new distributor or gotta rebuild mine...
 
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Valiantknight said:
So having a hell of a time trying to dial this thing in. Pulled the distributor and noticed that the top portion of the shaft assebly has some play in it it moves up and down. Reluctor has noticeable wear. Can anyone point me to a good rebuild guide on this. I just want to tighten things up.
Click to expand...
FSM for any electronic will have the specs. Not the curve the tolerances.
 
So car is running now. was having an issue where it would just die when i put it in gear but managed to get it to stop doing that. Was wondering if it was potentially damaging to adjust the engine while in gear.
 
I bought a genuine Chrysler NOS electronic distributor, 1973-74, from the place SSD recommends in the Pacific NW for just over a hundred bucks including shipping.
Also, one of the guys here rebuilds originals. I'd check with him and quit screwing around with Asian-sourced junk unless it comes with eggrolls.
 
So update. Got it running driving and fixed some front suspension and steering along with new tires since my last post. Im trying to bring the timing in just abit more. The car hesitates on accelration and sounds like its going to stall , vaccum pressure drops then right as i let off the throttle my vaccum pressure goes back up and the engine sounds better. Any ideas? Is the fuel mixture too rich or maybe not enough advance?
 
Valiantknight said:
So update. Got it running driving and fixed some front suspension and steering along with new tires since my last post. Im trying to bring the timing in just abit more. The car hesitates on accelration and sounds like its going to stall , vaccum pressure drops then right as i let off the throttle my vaccum pressure goes back up and the engine sounds better. Any ideas? Is the fuel mixture too rich or maybe not enough advance?
Click to expand...

Any recent updates?

What kind of carb do you have? Is your distributor connected to ported vacuum on the carb? Whats your vacuum reading at idle? It's supposed to drop when you open up the throttle so that's not necessarily a problem. Have you checked the accelerator pump adjustment on the carb? That could potentially cause a hesitation if it's not tuned correctly. Your timing shouldn't have to be dialed in perfectly to make the car run acceptably. There's a decent amount of wiggle room.

I have a Carter BBD on my slant w/electronic dist. I set my timing to 10* BTDC and leave it. Then I set the idle with the engine warm and in park to 750rpm. I've already ensured my two mixture screws on my carb are both turned out 2 1/2 turns a piece. Then I connect a vacuum gauge to the carb. After that I'll take and turn each mixture screw out by 1/2 a turn and see what the vacuum gauge does. Usually it'll raise the vacuum a bit. Then I go another 1/2 turn and it'll raise again. After another 1/2 turn on each, the vacuum gauge will either stay put or drop a bit. Then I go half a turn back in to where I had max vacuum and leave it. I'm not nearly as good a mechanic as a lot of these guys but this method has always worked for me. If you wind up having your screws way out at like 4 or 5 turns, then you probably have a vacuum leak that you're making up for and you'll need to fix that. When I'm done adjusting the mixture screws, I then reset the idle back to 750rpm and call it good.
 
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