What caused damage to reactor shaft

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Frank Mopar

Frank Mopar

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Any ideas on what would cause the damage to the reactor shaft?
On one pic you can see filings on the seal

The stall speed was getting higher so something is wrong

This is a turn key race car purchased a couple of years ago. 340 with a trans brake, front and rear motor plate.

Thanks ahead of time
 
Was there any metal shavings in the converter? It looks to me like some destroyed a converter once upon a time.
 
Did the car start slowing down with the increase in stall speed? What brand of converter do you have? Once you get everything apart, check the case alignment as noted by the MP chassis manual.
 
Looks like the bearing on the stator was coming apart and chewing up the support shaft. I would imagine the remainder of that bearing went through the converter and laid some fins over causing your stall speed to change. Have the converter cut open by a converter shop and you will have your proof.
 
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greg ducato said:
Looks like the bearing on the stator was coming apart and chewing up the support shaft. I would imagine the remainder of that bearing went through the converter and laid some fins over causing your stall speed to change. Have the converter cut open by a converter shop and you will have your proof.
Click to expand...

I agree with your analogy. The converter is on the way to Tsi to be looked at. As far as what kind it is, turn key car so who knows. Google of the numbers comes up empty
 
I see the reaction shaft look like that a lot. There isn't any contact there so the factory didn't machine it down nice and pretty. Look down inside of the pump at the converter bushing and I bet it'll be what's chewed up and causing the shavings. Pay particular attention to the bushing and see if it looks like it's worn on one side more than the other. If it is wore on one side more it sounds like the trans to engine alignment isn't correct. That can happen if the block was align bored a bunch which raises the crank in the main bearing bores. How does the converter snout look? If it's worn too that's another sign it's the converter support bushing that's leaving the shavings. I had that issue with a block I bought. It had never been opened up from the factory yet the crank to cam centerline was .013" closer than it should have been. Apparently it was screwed up in machining and they fixed it by re-boring the mains. I had to buy some adjustable alignment dowel pins and do the setup. It was a bit of work but I've since put about 10,000 hard miles on it with no sign of trouble
 
So following up, The converter was cut apart and there was no problem at all inside. Apparently it was like that at one time or was machined like that as stated.

The filings are from the starter ring gear which will be replaced.

thanks again for all the replies!
 
fklskv said:
The trans is at a shop being looked at. The was a lot of residue in the pan.

I think the problem is the nut that holds the wheel. My brother.
:lol:
Click to expand...
Or it could have been an unbalanced nut behind the wheel or a loose nut behind the wheel.
 
If someone machined that to look as it does, I wouldn't want them doing any machine work for me. IMO, a 3 year old with no skills could do better work than what is pictured.
 
fishy68 said:
I see the reaction shaft look like that a lot. There isn't any contact there so the factory didn't machine it down nice and pretty. Look down inside of the pump at the converter bushing and I bet it'll be what's chewed up and causing the shavings. Pay particular attention to the bushing and see if it looks like it's worn on one side more than the other. If it is wore on one side more it sounds like the trans to engine alignment isn't correct. That can happen if the block was align bored a bunch which raises the crank in the main bearing bores. How does the converter snout look? If it's worn too that's another sign it's the converter support bushing that's leaving the shavings. I had that issue with a block I bought. It had never been opened up from the factory yet the crank to cam centerline was .013" closer than it should have been. Apparently it was screwed up in machining and they fixed it by re-boring the mains. I had to buy some adjustable alignment dowel pins and do the setup. It was a bit of work but I've since put about 10,000 hard miles on it with no sign of trouble
Click to expand...

The fact that the shavings are on the outside of the seal and pump tells us that it wasn't an internal problem.
Not that it couldn't also be internal, seeing those shavings like that wouldn't freak me out about the internal condition.
I'd be looking at different source, like the starter gears for one. (as mentioned)
(anyone notice the flat spots on the dimples around the converter?)
Looks like it might have been touching the pump or case a little from possibly being into the pump a little far and then maybe ballooning a little.
JMO


Demonracer said:
If someone machined that to look as it does, I wouldn't want them doing any machine work for me. IMO, a 3 year old with no skills could do better work than what is pictured.
Click to expand...

As Tracey mentioned, that is common because it is a no contact area and they simply don't take more time doing the machining where it doesn't matter.
Most do look a lot better than that though.:D
 
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