Cooling suggestions (fan)

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zigs

zigs

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I want to go to a fan cooling system. Right now I have a Ford Taurus electric fan now and when it worked it was great . I went out to let the car run , it got up to 220 and no fan. I have it set for 185. I'm not going to go through that mess again, it was a lot of work. I checked all the electrical, disconnected relay and powered it direct and still nothing .Motor is probably shot
I want to go to a fan . What works for you clutch , flex, multi blade.
68 Dart 470 CID Northern 28" radiator , automatic, 323 rear
 
Find the Mopar Viscous fan package. Mancini sells it. It's the best clutch style fan money can buy.
 
Unless you are running big HP and just need the extra non functional BS, keep it simple. i Have a 383 factory car warmed up a bit and feel the viscous fan package available today will not work in the Tight confinement. All the other right factory pieces + a HV water pump and HV 185 stat keeps me cool though! Good luck and keep it simple!
 
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Re- read the original post.
I had a wider 3 core radiator at one time and it did not help really! Pusher, Electric and puller flex. Went simple with a original core 22” radiator 3 core brass original from Glen Rays. All standard other wise except the pump an stat.and it works! Simple is good sometimes!
 
1969383S said:
Unless you are running big HP and just need the extra non functional BS, keep it simple. i Have a 383 factory car warmed up a bit and feel the viscous fan package available today will not work in the Tight confinement. All the other right factory pieces + a HV water pump and HV 185 stat keeps me cool though! Good luck and keep it simple!
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My 70 440-6RR had a heavy duty rad and the factory clutch fan setup. I was stationed in S CA and saw LA as well as up in the farm land of Modesto/ Sac, etc. I NEVER worried about overheating. Don't know how this may differ
 
It was fairly new and had not been modified by who knows! I did on mine cause the factory radiator failed in the early 80’s and hot rodding was the rule of the day! It was a bad decision that was rectified years later! This is simple stuff but for all the highly modified setups. I think many over think some of this. I did! JMO.
 
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zigs said:
I'll check it out. Thanks RRR
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I'm going to go out tomarrow and do a bunch of measuring. . I may not have enough room for the Mopar viscous set up . Been reading about the Hayden clutches and also jag clutches
 
IMO, you may need the works with that combo.
Part 1
HD Hi-Flo pump and stat, 7-blade hi-attack all-steel fan, mounted on a THERMOSTATIC clutch, inside a tight-fit shroud. Plus molded hoses; the bottom with an anti-collapse spring, and
Part II
a restricted bypass, and an overdriven fan pulley.
EDIT:and fresh cold air to the carb,
This is what I know for sure works; you might be able to get away with less in Washington, IDK.
But that's a lot of motor to risk.

There is available, a low-profile Hayden clutch, but IDK if it's thermostatically controlled.
 
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zigs said:
I'm going to go out tomarrow and do a bunch of measuring. . I may not have enough room for the Mopar viscous set up . Been reading about the Hayden clutches and also jag clutches
Click to expand...

Best of luck with it. Is the radiator new? 220 is not bad unless it always there! Running 185/195 is always a bit tuff. Peaks and drops will happen And if you trust what is there you will not be concerned. If you watch the gauge like a religion you will never be happy! JMO!
 
AJ/FormS said:
IMO, you may need the works with that combo.
Part 1
HD Hi-Flo pump and stat, 7-blade hi-attack all-steel fan, mounted on a THERMOSTATIC clutch, inside a tight-fit shroud. Plus molded hoses; the bottom with an anti-collapse spring, and
Part II
a restricted bypass, and an overdriven fan pulley.

This is what I know for sure works; you might be able to get away with less in Washington, IDK.
But that's a lot of motor to risk.

There is available, a low-profile Hayden clutch, but IDK if it's thermostatically controlled.
Click to expand...
Already have HF water pump and thermostat. As far as Wa state . My side of the hills gets 90 to 100+ through the summer. I'll need to do some research , never jump into anything .
 
With the thermostatic clutch my system runs a rock-solid 207*F ,irregardless of ambient..
A direct-drive fan will prove your system works; but I'm not interested to spin one of those big steel 7 bladers to 6 or 7 Gs .. I use a T-clutch from an early 2000s Ford pick-up;got it straight from the dealer. It cycles very nicely in direct relationship to the radiator temp, which I had planned to keep at 195 with the HF stat. But apparently the HF stat likes to run a tic over 200 to 205. Between the two of them duking it out, the result is 205 to 207. Tuned for that, my little 367 seems to be quite powerful for what it is. It's always ready to race,and I never worry about the temp,in fact I rarely look at the gauge; I just drive.
Like said;
1969383S said:
If you watch the gauge like a religion you will never be happy! JMO!
Click to expand...
 
1969383S said:
Unless you are running big HP and just need the extra non functional BS, keep it simple. i Have a 383 factory car warmed up a bit and feel the viscous fan package available today will not work in the Tight confinement. All the other right factory pieces + a HV water pump and HV 185 stat keeps me cool though! Good luck and keep it simple!
Click to expand...

this is working for me , but not quite as good as the mech. belt driven I had on there --------
IMG_0475 (1).JPG
 
Alot of good info. I knew it would come down to this, fixed or clutch. All depends on the measurements. Radiators new so Im not ditching it (yet). I'll strip all the old stuff out this afternoon and get sone measurements and maybe some pictures
Iknow how you guys like pictures.
 
zigs said:
What is that set up?
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aluminum 6 blade clutch type, with the engine bay heat/505'' , it doesnt cool as well as 6 blade fixed , both 17''. probly should go to an 18'', but it seems to be working for now, just not as cool as the fixed did.
I tested about everything I could think of last summer , dual elec., big single elec., clutch, no clutch----------------
 
zigs said:
Alot of good info. I knew it would come down to this, fixed or clutch. All depends on the measurements. Radiators new so Im not ditching it (yet). I'll strip all the old stuff out this afternoon and get sone measurements and maybe some pictures
Iknow how you guys like pictures.
Click to expand...

Why ditch the entire set up because you burnt out a motor? It happens, although it's not common.

You already have a complete set up for the electric fans that worked. A new motor is much cheaper than re-tooling for a mechanical fan.
 
72bluNblu said:
Why ditch the entire set up because you burnt out a motor? It happens, although it's not common.

You already have a complete set up for the electric fans that worked. A new motor is much cheaper than re-tooling for a mechanical fan.
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So true . Which brings us to the next topic in our meeting. Brain farts ! Yes brain farts. I admit it I get um every once and awhile. When I was testing the fan motor I guess I wasn't making a good connection. Went out this morning and I'm thinking that motor should work its not that old. soooo I got a good jumper and put the juice to the low speed and it took off , same with high speed. Now I'm thinking relay or even sending unit. I hate **** like this. I could wire through ignition but don't like it running all the time. I didn't really want to get rid of the Taurus fan ,on low it will pull heat from well over 200 down to 180 fast . What people have said about these fans is true. Anyway I'll get it figured out that's for all the help.
 
zigs said:
So true . Which brings us to the next topic in our meeting. Brain farts ! Yes brain farts. I admit it I get um every once and awhile. When I was testing the fan motor I guess I wasn't making a good connection. Went out this morning and I'm thinking that motor should work its not that old. soooo I got a good jumper and put the juice to the low speed and it took off , same with high speed. Now I'm thinking relay or even sending unit. I hate **** like this. I could wire through ignition but don't like it running all the time. I didn't really want to get rid of the Taurus fan ,on low it will pull heat from well over 200 down to 180 fast . What people have said about these fans is true. Anyway I'll get it figured out that's for all the help.
Click to expand...

Well that’s good news!

What are you running as a trigger for the fans? A controller or just a thermostatic switch?
 
72bluNblu said:
Well that’s good news!

What are you running as a trigger for the fans? A controller or just a thermostatic switch?
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Controller , I liked the idea of going through a fuse and I could wire straight from the battery.. I'll check switches tomarrow.
 
I have the dual Contour fans on mine. It also drops the temp amazingly fast once they kick on.
There isn't room between my rad core and the water pump for a clutch fan anyway, even the short one.
 
zigs said:
Controller , I liked the idea of going through a fuse and I could wire straight from the battery.. I'll check switches tomarrow.
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Somewhere on here @goldduster318 did a write up on how to wire these fans up. I can't find it, but it used 2 70 amp relays (one for hi and one for lo) and a 60 amp maxi fuse. This setup was controlled by a Dakota digital controller. I set up my Taurus fans the same way. I'll keep digging for the write up.
 
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