VBelt pulley layout

-

Ben A...

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2020
Messages
147
Reaction score
53
Location
Los Angeles
Noob alert.

I have an LA360 with powersteering, no A/C.
But the current pulleys and waterpump are for an AC car. (4 groove crank, 2 groove waterpump pulley w/ 6 vane pump)
To avoid any cooling issues I'm going to change the waterpump and pulleys.

I'm just a little confused on best layout for the VBelt.

Do I run a 2 groove crank pulley?
1 belt to crank-alt-waterpump
1 belt to powersteering

This kit would work? Small Block Pulley Kit

Or is there a better layout for the belts? Because there are a lot of options..

Thank you for the help.
Ben
 
If all the pulleys are covered(belted) I would leave it. Post up some pictures.
 
If all the pulleys are covered(belted) I would leave it. Post up some pictures.
Thanks 69FBCuda -- What about changing the waterpump impeller (6vane) and waterpump pulley (for AC)? I read that with the AC setup on a non-AC car it could cause cooling issues.
 
If your not adding an A/C unit then I dont see how it could affect the cooling. Thermostat temp replacement maybe. Newer cars with the electric fans could be effected by the sensors and switches. What year?
 
If your not adding an A/C unit then I dont see how it could affect the cooling. Thermostat temp replacement maybe.
I read that with an AC-specced 6vane waterpump impeller and a AC-sized pulley on the waterpump it would move less water and cause issues for AC-delete systems? I did previously test this engine (it's at a machine shop now) and she got pretty hot... but that was also a blown head gasket.

It would be nice not to change things :)
 
For those wondering...
Regarding the head gasket.
the head bolts were almost finger loose so not a blown head gasket pre se, but it was putting a lot of pressure into the cooling system.
 
Water pump and thermostat change is pretty easy stuff. I'd get it back together and run it, if it continues to over temp check the thermostat first then look at the water pump. Are you doing the work your self? Head gasket will cause all kinds of problems. Make sure your oil is free of any coolant and your coolant is free of any oil.
 
Water pump and thermostat change is pretty easy stuff. I'd get it back together and run it, if it continues to over temp check the thermostat first then look at the water pump. Are you doing the work your self? Head gasket will cause all kinds of problems. Make sure your oil is free of any coolant and your coolant is free of any oil.
Thank you!
I'm doing it myself, not because I'm any good but because I'm trying to learn.
Block is getting checked at the machine shop then I'm starting on doing the full rebuild myself.

Would be nice to use the pulleys it came with as I spent hours restoring what I had before I thought to research this.
 
Noob alert.

I have an LA360 with powersteering, no A/C.
But the current pulleys and waterpump are for an AC car. (4 groove crank, 2 groove waterpump pulley w/ 6 vane pump)
To avoid any cooling issues I'm going to change the waterpump and pulleys.

I'm just a little confused on best layout for the VBelt.

Do I run a 2 groove crank pulley?
1 belt to crank-alt-waterpump
1 belt to powersteering

This kit would work? Small Block Pulley Kit

Or is there a better layout for the belts? Because there are a lot of options..

Thank you for the help.
Ben


what year car are we talking about. water pump from a 69-down or 70-up.

don't just run what ya have if it is not correct. any pics of what you have?
 
what year car are we talking about. water pump from a 69-down or 70-up.

don't just run what ya have if it is not correct. any pics of what you have?
It's a 70-up (73 Duster and someone swapped in a 360, not sure when).
Part # on the waterpump is 2951571.
Pictures attached.

How free should this impeller spin when it's off the block? If I give it a finger twist it turns but stops almost immediately.

Thank you for help :)

IMG_8123.JPG


IMG_8122.JPG
 
It's a 70-up (73 Duster and someone swapped in a 360, not sure when).
Part # on the waterpump is 2951571.
Pictures attached.

How free should this impeller spin when it's off the block? If I give it a finger twist it turns but stops almost immediately.

Thank you for help :)

View attachment 1715499586

View attachment 1715499589


I’d replace that with a Milodon high flow unit. They are relatively inexpensive and way better than that. You should also buy a QUALITY high flow thermostat. Stewart Components has the best one IMO. Make sure the water pump is turning faster than the crank.

BTW, there is no reason to ever run a thermostat hotter than 190. A 180 is better. Running hot coolant temps is a mistake many guys make. When you do that, you have to reduce the compression ratio to keep out of detonation and that is a power loser.

Don’t know what intake manifold you are using but I’d block the heat crossover off if it already isn’t. That’s another compression dropping detonation maker.
 
It's a 70-up (73 Duster and someone swapped in a 360, not sure when).
Part # on the waterpump is 2951571.
Pictures attached.

How free should this impeller spin when it's off the block? If I give it a finger twist it turns but stops almost immediately.

Thank you for help :)

View attachment 1715499586

View attachment 1715499589


ok so 70-up.

heres how it should be..

crank is 2 pulley if you have power steering. rear pulley goes crank, water pump and alt. front pulley power steering only. thats how it was set up from the factory. using a/c pulleys just causes a clusterfuck situation.


here are the pulleys ya need. no you don't have to buy them here. the pics are for reference. look at the measurements on them and then you will know what used pulleys to buy. also make sure you have the proper alt. bracket too..

70-up small block  crank pulley no air.png


70-up small block wp pulley no air.png
 
I’d replace that with a Milodon high flow unit. They are relatively inexpensive and way better than that. You should also buy a QUALITY high flow thermostat. Stewart Components has the best one IMO. Make sure the water pump is turning faster than the crank.

BTW, there is no reason to ever run a thermostat hotter than 190. A 180 is better. Running hot coolant temps is a mistake many guys make. When you do that, you have to reduce the compression ratio to keep out of detonation and that is a power loser.

Don’t know what intake manifold you are using but I’d block the heat crossover off if it already isn’t. That’s another compression dropping detonation maker.

Thank you very much. Very helpful.
They are relatively inexpensive. I'll get that with the 180 stat.
 
Thank you for the items and photos.
This is very very helpful!!! Really appreciate it.
I'm keen on doing it with the correct pulleys (if I can afford it) so I'm not trying to problem solve this once I put the engine in.

those pulleys pop up for sale here quite often so keep an eye out for them
 
-
Back
Top