[FOR SALE] Charging system wire around 6 or 8ga

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Charge system bulkhead wire around. The idea is to remove the bulkhead connectors and resistance in the circuit from the charging wires. I have two set ups available. One is 6ga wire with 10ga fusible link, the other is an 8ga wire with a 12ga fusible link. The 8ga wiring solution would be OK for alternators up to about 90 amps. The 6ga would be OK to about 120 amps in most situations. Most of the time the alternator is not providing maximum output. I do my best to make the wire black from end to end. I can place red shrink at the ends to remind that it is a hot + wire.

Example of the 6ga wire used. It's great wire that is very flexible and hides nicely in the OEM harness tabs..
UXKgciv.jpg


6ga example in red. I no longer use the red wire for this item.
6ga_wire_around1-jpg-jpg.jpg


8ga wire around
wire-20around-jpg-jpg.jpg


I use as much US sourced wire as possible. It's getting tougher to find US sourced fusible link.

Wire set ups are $30-40 depending on length + shipping from Indio, CA
I do provide discounts for customer loyalty and multiple items purchased at same time.

PM here or email to robule1 at yahoo dot com

Thanks for the ad space.

Rob
 
Last edited:
Charge system bulkhead wire around. The idea is to remove the bulkhead connectors and resistance in the circuit from the charging wires. I have two set ups available. One is 6ga wire with 10ga fusible link, the other is an 8ga wire with a 12ga fusible link. The 8ga wiring solution would be OK for alternators up to about 90 amps. The 6ga would be OK to about 120 amps in most situations. Most of the time the alternator is not providing maximum output. I do my best to make the wire black from end to end. I can place red shrink at the ends to remind that it is a hot + wire.

Example of the 6ga wire used. It's great wire that is very flexible and hides nicely in the OEM harness tabs..
View attachment 1715510064

6ga example in red. I no longer use the red wire for this item.
View attachment 1715510034

8ga wire around
View attachment 1715510035

I use as much US sourced wire as possible. It's getting tougher to find US sourced fusible link.

Wire set ups are $30-40 depending on length + shipping from Indio, CA
I do provide discounts for customer loyalty and multiple items purchased at same time.

PM here or email to robule1 at yahoo dot com

Thanks for the ad space.

Rob

I did the 8 gauge with fusible link on my 73 Dart Swinger and it really took the electrical load off of my headlight switch and bulkhead connectors. Rob really does excellent work and uses quality materials in the construction of his wire arounds. I highly recommend this upgrade to your electrical system for all our Mopars. I also purchased Rob’s headlight relay kit...a very easy plug and play install and the headlights on the old girl are much brighter and no dimming at idle. I wish he made more products for our cars and he stands behind all his stuff. A great FABO member!!!! THANKS ROB.
318MG
 
I did the 8 gauge with fusible link on my 73 Dart Swinger and it really took the electrical load off of my headlight switch and bulkhead connectors. Rob really does excellent work and uses quality materials in the construction of his wire arounds. I highly recommend this upgrade to your electrical system for all our Mopars. I also purchased Rob’s headlight relay kit...a very easy plug and play install and the headlights on the old girl are much brighter and no dimming at idle. I wish he made more products for our cars and he stands behind all his stuff. A great FABO member!!!! THANKS ROB.
318MG

Thanks for the positive comments and great to read it's performing to your expectations. Appreciate the patronage!
 
Does this eliminate / bypass the ammeter?

I really like the battery cables you made me , I have one of those power master alternators to install and I will be running a efi setup too.. is the 8ga the way to go?
 
Does this eliminate / bypass the ammeter?

I really like the battery cables you made me , I have one of those power master alternators to install and I will be running a efi setup too.. is the 8ga the way to go?

It is part of bypassing the ammeter.

Depending on Amp output of alternator. I'd run a 6ga for anything over an 75-80 amp unit.
 
It is part of bypassing the ammeter.

Depending on Amp output of alternator. I'd run a 6ga for anything over an 75-80 amp unit.

Sounds like I need to go to a heavier wire !
I dont have any trouble w/ anything , except hot starts , never starts on the first turn of the key , but hit it quick a second time and it fires up . ??????????????????
any ideas ? Been this way since day one , scares me , but hasnt failed me yet .--????????????
 
Sounds like I need to go to a heavier wire !
I dont have any trouble w/ anything , except hot starts , never starts on the first turn of the key , but hit it quick a second time and it fires up . ??????????????????
any ideas ? Been this way since day one , scares me , but hasnt failed me yet .--????????????

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ANYONE ??
 
The wire around doesn't do anything for starting the car.

Maybe larger cables on the starter? That could help if it doesn't crank easily, both pos and neg.

@famous bob
 
Charge system bulkhead wire around. The idea is to remove the bulkhead connectors and resistance in the circuit from the charging wires. I have two set ups available. One is 6ga wire with 10ga fusible link, the other is an 8ga wire with a 12ga fusible link. The 8ga wiring solution would be OK for alternators up to about 90 amps. The 6ga would be OK to about 120 amps in most situations. Most of the time the alternator is not providing maximum output. I do my best to make the wire black from end to end. I can place red shrink at the ends to remind that it is a hot + wire.

Example of the 6ga wire used. It's great wire that is very flexible and hides nicely in the OEM harness tabs..
View attachment 1715510064

6ga example in red. I no longer use the red wire for this item.
View attachment 1715510034

8ga wire around
View attachment 1715510035

I use as much US sourced wire as possible. It's getting tougher to find US sourced fusible link.

Wire set ups are $30-40 depending on length + shipping from Indio, CA
I do provide discounts for customer loyalty and multiple items purchased at same time.

PM here or email to robule1 at yahoo dot com

Thanks for the ad space.

Rob

Rob...where does this actually connect in the car ('67 Dart)...I'm a total idiot when it comes to auto wiring (actually hate it!), so can you explain what this does, and where it goes, to me in dumb-speak please? Thanks!
 
@65Val

Connects at alternator charge stud and starter relay stud.

Carries the majority of any battery required amp charge load. Takes that load off the bulkhead, normal charge path back to battery.
 
No problem. Have plenty of materials for both 6ga and 8 ga set ups on the way.
 
Charge system bulkhead wire around. The idea is to remove the bulkhead connectors and resistance in the circuit from the charging wires. I have two set ups available. One is 6ga wire with 10ga fusible link, the other is an 8ga wire with a 12ga fusible link. The 8ga wiring solution would be OK for alternators up to about 90 amps. The 6ga would be OK to about 120 amps in most situations. Most of the time the alternator is not providing maximum output. I do my best to make the wire black from end to end. I can place red shrink at the ends to remind that it is a hot + wire.

Example of the 6ga wire used. It's great wire that is very flexible and hides nicely in the OEM harness tabs..
View attachment 1715510064

6ga example in red. I no longer use the red wire for this item.
View attachment 1715510034

8ga wire around
View attachment 1715510035

I use as much US sourced wire as possible. It's getting tougher to find US sourced fusible link.

Wire set ups are $30-40 depending on length + shipping from Indio, CA
I do provide discounts for customer loyalty and multiple items purchased at same time.

PM here or email to robule1 at yahoo dot com

Thanks for the ad space.

Rob

Rob, can this be used while keeping the bulkhead connector and ammeter they way the came? Is there any benefit?
 
This renders the Ammeter inefective. You can leave the ammeter if you like, I always bypass it.

I always suggest leave all the OEM wiring in place and bypass ammeter.
 
This renders the Ammeter inefective. You can leave the ammeter if you like, I always bypass it.

I always suggest leave all the OEM wiring in place and bypass ammeter.

Well mine actually WORKS, so I am leaving it be until it doesn't. I've inspected the firewall connector and it looks fine. Course this car is all stock so there's "that".
 
Well mine actually WORKS, so I am leaving it be until it doesn't. I've inspected the firewall connector and it looks fine. Course this car is all stock so there's "that".
Cool! So you installed wire bypass and ammeter still works? I am strongly considering doing this for peace of mind in my dart sport soon! So you just added this without modifying anything? If so I like this idea even more!!:)
 
On my 69 B-Cuda, all I did was connct the wire to the alternator out put wire, (the big terminal) followed the wires over to the starter relay, and connected it up there. I had already bypassed the amp gage. Headlights do not dim.
Installation took 1/2 hour.
Dave
 
Cool! So you installed wire bypass and ammeter still works? I am strongly considering doing this for peace of mind in my dart sport soon! So you just added this without modifying anything? If so I like this idea even more!!:)

No I was saying my ammeter is a good one. It works now. Since it does work, I am not going to get the bypass wire.
 
Thanks for the purchases and I have plenty of materials right now for kits. Both 6 and 8 GA.

Rob
 
Thanks for the purchases and I have plenty of materials right now for kits. Both 6 and 8 GA.

Rob

Since you brought this back up to the top, I have a question. Forgive me if I've asked before, my forgetter works full time now. Is there someone who converts these ammeters to volt meters? I don't give a crap if it reads numbers. I can relate to it with the "D" and the "C". I'm just wondering is someone can basically stick a volt meter on the back of the stock face?
 
Since you brought this back up to the top, I have a question. Forgive me if I've asked before, my forgetter works full time now. Is there someone who converts these ammeters to volt meters? I don't give a crap if it reads numbers. I can relate to it with the "D" and the "C". I'm just wondering is someone can basically stick a volt meter on the back of the stock face?

Yes, redline does it.

Lots of home builder guys have used some of the small voltemeters and installed them in the original clusters. If you search here or FBBO, there are some threads on the process.
 
Yes, redline does it.

Lots of home builder guys have used some of the small voltemeters and installed them in the original clusters. If you search here or FBBO, there are some threads on the process.
I have a question. Mr heaterbox another cluster/gauge restorer claims that they fireproof the ammeter gauge. In a pic they solder/sauter the threaded studs so there is no threat of fire according to them. Is this something that sounds reasonable or better yet believable?
 
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