Start of a Dart

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Have I incited lift-envy yet?

I've had lift envy for years, This Dart has really kicked my butt this past year, part of it I guess is learning about Mopars, Mustang seemed a lot easier but another year or too older don't help. LOL
 
I gave that some consideration and decided to go the outsourcing route so I can learn something. I know a guy in the car repair business who gave me contact info on a top-notch welder. He's going to come by and fix this, and I can watch and learn. However, I did get some scrap metal to start practicing with. At the moment, for sure I will need to replace both lower quarters, one trunk dropoff, and one lower rear front fender.
I thought you owned a welder?..
 
well damn, I have a pretty nice Miller 140 autoset, if you have a grinder you can weld with it is my motto

I will bring it down and pick up the lift.
 
I thought you owned a welder?

I do, but it's the plain-jane Lincoln 220V stick welder. This is one of those things that's way outside of my skill set. I've worked with it some, but all the results are wretched. Note to self, it's time to get with someone who knows how to do this. I might not live long enough to figure it out by myself.
 
I do, but it's the plain-jane Lincoln 220V stick welder. This is one of those things that's way outside of my skill set. I've worked with it some, but all the results are wretched. Note to self, it's time to get with someone who knows how to do this. I might not live long enough to figure it out by myself.
yes those aren't relative much anymore and I'm sure there's a guru who'll jump in and say they do everything with them, but the only way to go now is a wire feed welder with argon gas... I just have a cheap Harbor Freight wire feed welder that is flux core wire. It does the job okay but doesn't leave as nice or welds as the argon gas.. I was just teaching my customer yesterday how to use his new argon gas welder with his 51 Chevy that we are notching the rear frame 4 a lowrider airbag deal...
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As noted prevoiusly, my buddy came by and helped get the rear axle and springs out, so I have a completely clean work area from the trans crossmember to the back bumper.

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Having worked my way through the question of do-or-do-not remove the undercoating, I decided to go down that road. I picked brains in a different thread for should-I-or-shouldn't-I and learned many ways to take this stuff off. I tried a couple of them but they were messy to say the least. I decided to get a needle scaler and try that. To say it was a resounding success would be the understatement of the year. Behold, my newest favorite tool. I ordered it locally from Grainger for $100 and picked it up the next day. It paid for itself in the first five minutes. Note the up-periscope high tech flashlight improvement, it really helps to see what's going on. I tried wetting down the undercoating to keep the dust down, but the water made for slower going, and it was uber-messy. I opted for lots of PPE and went the dry-and-dusty route. Full face shield, face mask, ear plug, ear muffs, and gloves. The only downside to this thing is it's pretty heavy so I have to take a break every so often so I don't seize up.

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Here is a before picture of the left rear fender well, followed by an after picture of the right rear fender well. It only took 40 minutes or so to get it in spotless condition.

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The heap-o-crap that came off the right fender. It's almost a half inch deep.

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One more pic and I'll stop gushing about the needle scaler. This frame rail was completely crusty and scaly, 15 seconds later you can see the difference. This thing will do corners, seams, uneven surfaces, you name it. Today will see me going at it again to clean up more areas.

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Look at the progress you're making! Those wheels and tires look awfully familiar.
 
Those wheels and tires look awfully familiar.

I think really, the wheels just look awful. I'm no fan, and eagerly await the day I get the new 15" BBP steelies installed.



I've been working on the car, but progress isn't readily apparent. Cleaning up the underside is taking longer than I expected, so lots of labor but not much to show for it. I decided to spend a little time working on some smaller stuff, just so I could say I got something done. I got the antenna installed and a new plug end on it to fix the original which fell apart and wasn't repairable. I finally sorted out the ignition key and why it wouldn't go back in the dash, assembled and painted one good rear-view mirror from the bones of three others, and cleaned the seat belts which were grubbygrubbygrubby. I also got the new washer bottle and pump assembled and tested, it works fine. Once the MSD ignition comes out, that will free up the inner fencer real estate for the bottle.

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I keep finding these funny little lights, I think they must be part of some kind of option package. There is one above the ignition (which is why it was a bugger to get back in - the light thingie has to be clocked correctly or it won't fit the hole) and another inside the ashtray. I can't see a bulb anywhere, but there are two teeny holes in the housing (in blue circles) so I suppose the light shines out of those. Does anyone know how these come apart to replace the bulbs? I don't see any threads or obvious cap and didn't want to muscle it open.

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I think really, the wheels just look awful. I'm no fan, and eagerly await the day I get the new 15" BBP steelies installed.



I've been working on the car, but progress isn't readily apparent. Cleaning up the underside is taking longer than I expected, so lots of labor but not much to show for it. I decided to spend a little time working on some smaller stuff, just so I could say I got something done. I got the antenna installed and a new plug end on it to fix the original which fell apart and wasn't repairable. I finally sorted out the ignition key and why it wouldn't go back in the dash, assembled and painted one good rear-view mirror from the bones of three others, and cleaned the seat belts which were grubbygrubbygrubby. I also got the new washer bottle and pump assembled and tested, it works fine. Once the MSD ignition comes out, that will free up the inner fencer real estate for the bottle.

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I keep finding these funny little lights, I think they must be part of some kind of option package. There is one above the ignition (which is why it was a bugger to get back in - the light thingie has to be clocked correctly or it won't fit the hole) and another inside the ashtray. I can't see a bulb anywhere, but there are two teeny holes in the housing (in blue circles) so I suppose the light shines out of those. Does anyone know how these come apart to replace the bulbs? I don't see any threads or obvious cap and didn't want to muscle it open.

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The charger wheels looks gross but the steelies with Cooper cobras are spot on.

The little things take forever and make you feel like you're getting no where but those are the things I dread and avoid...

Worst thing that happens if you muscle it open is you break it and don't have to put it back in right? Lol. I got a bfh If you want to borrow it?
 
I think really, the wheels just look awful. I'm no fan, and eagerly await the day I get the new 15" BBP steelies installed.



I've been working on the car, but progress isn't readily apparent. Cleaning up the underside is taking longer than I expected, so lots of labor but not much to show for it. I decided to spend a little time working on some smaller stuff, just so I could say I got something done. I got the antenna installed and a new plug end on it to fix the original which fell apart and wasn't repairable. I finally sorted out the ignition key and why it wouldn't go back in the dash, assembled and painted one good rear-view mirror from the bones of three others, and cleaned the seat belts which were grubbygrubbygrubby. I also got the new washer bottle and pump assembled and tested, it works fine. Once the MSD ignition comes out, that will free up the inner fencer real estate for the bottle.

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I keep finding these funny little lights, I think they must be part of some kind of option package. There is one above the ignition (which is why it was a bugger to get back in - the light thingie has to be clocked correctly or it won't fit the hole) and another inside the ashtray. I can't see a bulb anywhere, but there are two teeny holes in the housing (in blue circles) so I suppose the light shines out of those. Does anyone know how these come apart to replace the bulbs? I don't see any threads or obvious cap and didn't want to muscle it open.

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The one with the two holes is the ignition light I think, and there is another with a slot instead of holes for the ashtray light.
On mine the wire end pulls out of the enclosure with the metal bulb socket still on the wire end.
 
Those lights are part of the Lighting Package. This includes a Map light (switch under the dash), glove box light, the lights you found, and those sexy turn signal indicators on the front fenders.
 
Hmmm. Well I have the map light indicator but so far I haven't found the map light itself. I will check for the glove box light. No fender turn signals on this one, and no holes where they would be.
 
Hmmm. Well I have the map light indicator but so far I haven't found the map light itself. I will check for the glove box light. No fender turn signals on this one, and no holes where they would be.

Well if you find those fancy fender turn signals ill take them off your hands for you :poke:
 
Well if you find those fancy fender turn signals ill take them off your hands for you

Sorry, none to be had in my world. Unless both fenders were changed at some point? The left fender is a 69 Dart but not a GT, there are no holes for the upper body-line trim. The right fender has holes for the trim, but nothing where the fender turn signals would go. Now I'm curious, I'll have to look at the fenders to see if there is any wiring in there.
 
This includes a Map light (switch under the dash)

I think I found where the map light goes. Is it to the lower left of the steering column? I have the dash-mounted bezel for it but I don't see the switch or bulb at the moment. Does anyone have photos so I know what to look for or replace? And where does the light itself go? Also, no fender turn signals or wiring to be found on this car.

Slow progress the last few days, but I did manage to get the fuel pump replaced. Since the car sat for 25 years I am re-doing all the fuel system, including the hard line from the pump to the carb. I got a piece of brake line to form into the new line but it wouldn't bend nice using the bender tool I had. It started to kink so I had to figure out a better way. Then I noticed this.

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Old black line on the right, start of the new line on the left. Hmmm, I wonder how I'm going to tighten the nut down on the pump, it seems to be stuck on the back side of the bend. And how to remove the upper nut that I don't need? :wtf: Off to Napa for another one. I dug around and found my set of spring benders which worked way better. I also got a much longer line to start with so there was some leverage to work with. This stuff is pretty stiff. I only need a 20" run so that's what I got the first time around. The second try was only a dollar more for a 40" version which really helped. To hold the thing still I clamped the old pump in the vise and worked the bender while my girl provided power to make the bends. It worked like a champ. Then, of course, it was test fit, bend, test fit, bend, and so forth for quite a while getting this just right.

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It's funny, the new line fits MUCH better but isn't all that close in shape to the old one.

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However, success! Line is in and new hoses and filter are set.

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One more (stupid little) thing to check off the list. After getting the fuel pump sorted out I went back under the car with the needle scaler to go after the undercoat and crud. Many thankless hours later I emerged a filthy mess but I'm down to just 24" more to go to get to the t-bar crossmember where I will quit for this part of the adventure.

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I think I found where the map light goes. Is it to the lower left of the steering column? I have the dash-mounted bezel for it but I don't see the switch or bulb at the moment. Does anyone have photos so I know what to look for or replace? And where does the light itself go? Also, no fender turn signals or wiring to be found on this car.

Slow progress the last few days, but I did manage to get the fuel pump replaced. Since the car sat for 25 years I am re-doing all the fuel system, including the hard line from the pump to the carb. I got a piece of brake line to form into the new line but it wouldn't bend nice using the bender tool I had. It started to kink so I had to figure out a better way. Then I noticed this.

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Old black line on the right, start of the new line on the left. Hmmm, I wonder how I'm going to tighten the nut down on the pump, it seems to be stuck on the back side of the bend. And how to remove the upper nut that I don't need? :wtf: Off to Napa for another one. I dug around and found my set of spring benders which worked way better. I also got a much longer line to start with so there was some leverage to work with. This stuff is pretty stiff. I only need a 20" run so that's what I got the first time around. The second try was only a dollar more for a 40" version which really helped. To hold the thing still I clamped the old pump in the vise and worked the bender while my girl provided power to make the bends. It worked like a champ. Then, of course, it was test fit, bend, test fit, bend, and so forth for quite a while getting this just right.

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It's funny, the new line fits MUCH better but isn't all that close in shape to the old one.

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However, success! Line is in and new hoses and filter are set.

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One more (stupid little) thing to check off the list. After getting the fuel pump sorted out I went back under the car with the needle scaler to go after the undercoat and crud. Many thankless hours later I emerged a filthy mess but I'm down to just 24" more to go to get to the t-bar crossmember where I will quit for this part of the adventure.

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Bahahaha.. yes you leave the tightening nut at the end before you start bending LOL....
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One of these little mini pipe cutters comes in handy especially when it's already on the car.. also when it's not flared I have a tendency to put double hose clamps..
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Great tool, used it more times than I can count...
 
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Might I suggest next time that you clamp the nut by its wrenching area all the way to one side of your vice with the rod sticking straight up and setting something on your advice like a spray can that's round or something that's heavy and round and bending it around the top of it... :thumbsup:...
 
I thought you learned from my mistakes and knew not to make your own metal lines? :poke::lol:
I did that a couple times with the nuts not being completely at the end and stuck behind a bend, I used my thumbs and would massage it straight enough to get the nut to pass the bend, then just bend the line back to where you want it.

I'm done with my lines but my whole upper body is sore, if only I had bigger muscles lol. Your line looks good! What are your plans for the hose from the fuel filter to the Carb long term? I like the edelbrock hard line, helps keep the hose away from the intake which helps with heat soak/percolating... ask me how i know haha
 
What are your plans for the hose from the fuel filter to the Carb long term?

I just cut a piece of fuel injection 5/16 rubber line for now. It's a little too long but the filter on there at the moment is just for the first little while. With all new tank, lines, pump, etc I want to be able to see if anything is getting caught at the filter for a while. After some shake-down time I'm doing the Uncle Tony heat soak deal with a vapor line going back to the tank. At that time I'll check that hose but I suspect all I will need to do is shorten it a bit. Currently everything is well away from the intake or valve cover.
 
I just cut a piece of fuel injection 5/16 rubber line for now. It's a little too long but the filter on there at the moment is just for the first little while. With all new tank, lines, pump, etc I want to be able to see if anything is getting caught at the filter for a while. After some shake-down time I'm doing the Uncle Tony heat soak deal with a vapor line going back to the tank. At that time I'll check that hose but I suspect all I will need to do is shorten it a bit. Currently everything is well away from the intake or valve cover.

Yea the return line to the gas tank is a good idea. I thought about doing that when I do my fuel lines from the tank as well.
 
Slow progress lately, lots of labor and not much for photos of success. I finally, finally, got all the crap scraped off the bottom of the car from the t-bar crossmember to the rear bumper. Pulled the car outside where it is getting the Easy-Off treatment and a date with the pressure washer on its underbelly.

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Once the underneath is clean and dry, it will get primered and new undercoating. That is, after I fix the spare tire well. Mine has holes in the bottom and will be replaced. I also found this, a bunch of saw cracks and a big hole under a screwed-in patch piece I removed. My buddy thinks it is where a battery disconnect was at some point. I think I have a good piece of a trunk well coming to fix this, if not I will go to the local PNP and cut a section out of something else to patch in.

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And after the threads on cheap jack stands failing, I had a talk with my piggy bank and got these from Esco. Very nice and solid as a bank vault. Yes, they are still made in China but at their in-house owned factory under their supervision. A bit spendy but well worth it.

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Slow progress lately, lots of labor and not much for photos of success. I finally, finally, got all the crap scraped off the bottom of the car from the t-bar crossmember to the rear bumper. Pulled the car outside where it is getting the Easy-Off treatment and a date with the pressure washer on its underbelly.

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Once the underneath is clean and dry, it will get primered and new undercoating. That is, after I fix the spare tire well. Mine has holes in the bottom and will be replaced. I also found this, a bunch of saw cracks and a big hole under a screwed-in patch piece I removed. My buddy thinks it is where a battery disconnect was at some point. I think I have a good piece of a trunk well coming to fix this, if not I will go to the local PNP and cut a section out of something else to patch in.

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And after the threads on cheap jack stands failing, I had a talk with my piggy bank and got these from Esco. Very nice and solid as a bank vault. Yes, they are still made in China but at their in-house owned factory under their supervision. A bit spendy but well worth it.

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Those are some nice stands... i use my cheap stands usually with an extra 1 and the jack still under the car near the point where I'm at. If I'm doing something that takes longer I use my wheel cribs that I made.
 
Agreed, they are nice. I got the deluxe version that has axle stirrups too. And yes, I use a big fat rim/tire for backup anyway. No sense getting squished. :eek:
 
Agreed, they are nice. I got the deluxe version that has axle stirrups too. And yes, I use a big fat rim/tire for backup anyway. No sense getting squished. :eek:

When are you going to paint it? You doing it or having it done and in what color???
 
Paint is down the road a ways. Like a long ways. Both quarters and front fender dropoffs need replaced and maybe more. I suppose I could take a swing at painting it myself, we shall see how that goes. Color? Since I just bought a green interior I am somewhat committed to that but maybe not a stock color. More like emerald green.
 
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