Anyone ever disassemble a distributor - need help

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pearljam724

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I have the plate removed. I’m trying to access the springs to swap them out. Ends of both springs nearest the center shaft are not accessible due to the slotted mechanism hiding them. I believe the shaft will need to be removed. What’s the best way to remove the shaft ? Does the top rotor nut twist off ? Or do I need to knock out the dowel pin penetrating the plastic bushing ? I want to avoid messing with the dowel pin if I can. As I don’t want to risk it ever falling out.
 
This is a electronic but most are similar. I found this exploded view on the internet.

mopar distributor.png
 
I have the plate removed. I’m trying to access the springs to swap them out. Ends of both springs nearest the center shaft are not accessible due to the slotted mechanism hiding them. I believe the shaft will need to be removed. What’s the best way to remove the shaft ? Does the top rotor nut twist off ? Or do I need to knock out the dowel pin penetrating the plastic bushing ? I want to avoid messing with the dowel pin if I can. As I don’t want to risk it ever falling out.


Actually getting set up to do a video for Youtube on this exact subject along with what everything does and how.

I will help you now though.

1. Pry up on the reluctor with two screwdrivers to remove it from the shaft and pay attention to the tiny roll pin location when the reluctor comes off.

2. Remove the two screws holding the vac can on.

3. Lift up on the pickup coil to let the vac can arm pin out of it's hole from the under side of the base plate.

4. Remove the base plate screws and pop it up with your screwdriver if need be.

5. Take the clip or screw, whichever it has from down inside top of the shaft where the rotor sits.

6. Pull up on the shaft slightly twisting if need be, and you are at your centrifugal advance weights. (if it's a wire clip, small needle nose or hemostats work ok)

That's the basics in order.
Some distributors have a small roll pin that locates the base plate and vacuum can bracket to the housing and some don't.
At least note the hole for it so you know where the base plate should be located when putting it back in.
The pickup wires will give you a clue as to how it goes back anyway, and the base plate screws will help line it up semi close also.
Still, it's nice to have the base plate back exactly where it is supposed to be.
 
Actually getting set up to do a video for Youtube on this exact subject along with what everything does and how.

I will help you now though.

1. Pry up on the reluctor with two screwdrivers to remove it from the shaft and pay attention to the tiny roll pin location when the reluctor comes off.

2. Remove the two screws holding the vac can on.

3. Lift up on the pickup coil to let the vac can arm pin out of it's hole from the under side of the base plate.

4. Remove the base plate screws and pop it up with your screwdriver if need be.

5. Take the clip or screw, whichever it has from down inside top of the shaft where the rotor sits.

6. Pull up on the shaft slightly twisting if need be, and you are at your centrifugal advance weights. (if it's a wire clip, small needle nose or hemostats work ok)

That's the basics in order.
Some distributors have a small roll pin that locates the base plate and vacuum can bracket to the housing and some don't.
At least note the hole for it so you know where the base plate should be located when putting it back in.
The pickup wires will give you a clue as to how it goes back anyway, and the base plate screws will help line it up semi close also.
Still, it's nice to have the base plate back exactly where it is supposed to be.
Thank you, Trailbeast. You say, you’re making a video. Post it.
 
Go to MyMopar and download a free service manual.
 
Mine is obviously a LA small block distributor. I never noticed a screw inside the top rotor nut. I will have to look tomorrow.
 
It has a clip with two tabs that stick up that needs to be removed under the rotor.. Be careful they like to fly out.
 
Since I expected to be doing this often; I drilled and tapped the top of the driveshaft for a small, allen-headed machine screw. Then fabbed a spacer to reduce the end-play to a sane number. No more dicking with that ridiculous lil clip. There were times during the tuning that I would have that top off, three times in 15/20 miles. I learn by doing, and not all the stuff I do is for the better,lol.
 
Good video. Not to be critical but use the proper tools. Thanks

Could you elaborate on the "proper tools" please?
I'd like to keep things so the average non pro can do things at home without needing a box of specialized equipment they might only need once or twice.

Thanks.
 
Could you elaborate on the "proper tools" please?
I'd like to keep things so the average non pro can do things at home without needing a box of specialized equipment they might only need once or twice.

Thanks.
2 straight blade screwdrivers instead of a Phillips I noticed. I'm sure you have a couple straight blades in your tool box. Actually screwdrivers shouldn't be used for prying but acceptable for removing the reluctor. Mopar might have a $300 special puller for that like you mentioned but not necessary. You mentioned a marker to mark the housing for location. That's a great idea instead of scraping with a test light probe. Might as well look professional. Your avatar tells me you are. Good videos.
 
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2 straight blade screwdrivers instead of a Phillips I noticed. I'm sure you have a couple straight blades in your tool box. Actually screwdrivers shouldn't be used for prying but acceptable for removing the reluctor. Mopar might have a $300 special puller for that like you mentioned but not necessary. You mentioned a marker to mark the housing for location. That's a great idea instead of scraping with a test light probe. Might as well look professional. Your avatar tells me you are. Good videos.

Thanks Mike.
I mentioned in the video that I was able to use that phillips because I already had the insides of the distributor apart.
That allowed me to get the phillips in there when I would normally use two flat blades.

Just so you know, I have NO problem suggesting having the right tools in the video's.
Do you know anyone I might be able to point people to, to get them just in case?:D
I know some people like to have every cool little tool, and when it comes up who do I refer them to?
Mopars4us@ that G place will work for contact info.
 
Thanks Mike.
I mentioned in the video that I was able to use that phillips because I already had the insides of the distributor apart.
That allowed me to get the phillips in there when I would normally use two flat blades.

Just so you know, I have NO problem suggesting having the right tools in the video's.
Do you know anyone I might be able to point people to, to get them just in case?:D
I know some people like to have every cool little tool, and when it comes up who do I refer them to?
Mopars4us@ that G place will work for contact info.
I was a MAC Tool dealer for 28 years. I retired a couple years ago. It's just the toolman coming out after all those years. LOL I wish you much success on your videos.
 
IIRC the reluctor can be put on upside down for B/RB applications. It changes the timing so be aware. I think the reluctor has a mark on the edge with an arrow for rotation? Maybe that is on remans only.
 
I was a MAC Tool dealer for 28 years. I retired a couple years ago. It's just the toolman coming out after all those years. LOL I wish you much success on your videos.

Oh I get it.:D
Shame about you being retired though, because I am going to need some suppliers to recommend.
Either that or I have to make the money myself by selling say, a distributor service kit.

Don at FBO asked if I wanted to be a reseller for their products, but at the time it would have caused a conflict here with some of the vendors, so I turned him down.
I am going to revisit that discussion at the begining of the work week.
 
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IIRC the reluctor can be put on upside down for B/RB applications. It changes the timing so be aware. I think the reluctor has a mark on the edge with an arrow for rotation? Maybe that is on remans only.

Not upside down, but the roll pin that locates the reluctor on the shaft can be put in the wrong slot causing a phasing issue.
The arrow and two lines is where the reluctor roll pin goes for small blocks, and the other slot in the reluctor would be for big blocks. (that way the same part can be used for either small or big blocks)
 
I had an Ag professor once said " anything over a "C" is just wasted effort" lol and someone once said " if you an fix it with a screw driver, pliers torch dust tape or baling wire, YOU are just trying to be fancy"!
 
Not upside down, but the roll pin that locates the reluctor on the shaft can be put in the wrong slot causing a phasing issue.
The arrow and two lines is where the reluctor roll pin goes for small blocks, and the other slot in the reluctor would be for big blocks. (that way the same part can be used for either small or big blocks)
Yup. I like to put a reminder on if I think of it.
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