67-76 floor into a 65...

-

Cuda416

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
3,063
Reaction score
2,987
Location
South, TX
Started this here asking for advice on slicing a floor, but thought I'd move it to a thread specifically to document the install.

We have a 65 Valiant which badly needed a floor. So, going off of some other folks experiences, we opted to put a later floor in it and are going to document the thing so that others might benefit from it and maybe get some advise along the way from those who actually know what they are doing.

There was a question about the width. If I recall, the new floor is slightly wider than the original, at least on the floor. That may change once it's in place.

Never thought removing the engine and trans combo could be so easy.... this is the way to do it...

20200625_113349 (Small).jpg


Obligatory pic of the next generation.

20200623_151710 (Small).jpg


I won't bore anyone with the details of how it looked originally, suffice it to say, it was completely rotted out. I'm amazed the surrounding structure was left intact. Well, mostly anyway. There is a small area about 6x12, in the passenger rear foot well that's a little flimsy due to a really awesome "tin" and sheet-metal screw "repair" that was done at sometime in the past. It's not rusted through but it's not strong either. That will get fixed before the floor is put in.

20200623_210239 (Small).jpg


We're planning on attempting to get the floor in, from underneath. Unintended benefit of having a lift. If that doesn't work, we'll do what a friend of mine suggested and cut it down the center, like a puzzle.

20200625_103742 (Small).jpg


We were reminded (a little too late) to watch out for the re-enforcement brackets. This was my fault. A little to excited to get started. Oops...

20200625_120058 (Small).jpg



The front braces and firewall, seem fine. There's a little surface rust on the drivers side, but we'll address that.
20200625_150632 (Small).jpg


20200625_150637 (Small).jpg


Anyway, that's what we're doing around here. Hope this helps someone, most of all us.

More to come.

-=C
 
I put later individual floor pans in a 65 Dart years ago When all there was was 67-later individual repair panels. As i recall they had to be massaged to fit.
 
I put later individual floor pans in a 65 Dart years ago When all there was was 67-later individual repair panels. As i recall they had to be massaged to fit.

I don't doubt that one bit. I am hoping they are close enough. Not looking for perfect but a good solid, safe floor.
 
I used 67 up rear pans to patch my rears in my 66 before they were available. It took a good bit of reshaping. Ended having my resto shop make one new rear and used ABS fronts.

4447B630-4975-4873-82D9-A0AC4B29845B.jpeg
 
For buckets, which seat brackets to use? early or late? An added benefit is ability to use the 67-later 4 speed hump.
 
an added benefit of the later floor is a larger trans tunnel area...I think. Will be watching just because I can always learn something new.
 
an added benefit of the later floor is a larger trans tunnel area...I think. Will be watching just because I can always learn something new.
That's my thought also. How's the tunnel going to workout? Good luck with your project.
 
i think leaving the tunnel alone , just cutting the floor pans off it , then fitting it back together . larger tunnel would be best in my option .
 
i think leaving the tunnel alone , just cutting the floor pans off it , then fitting it back together . larger tunnel would be best in my option .

One of my concerns is the crossmember. I'm considering either getting a piece to graft in from the bone yard, or fabricating a new section.
 
Made a template of the old versus new profile. The lines represent the existing crossmember and the upper edge, the new floor profile.
20200626_210130.jpg
 
While exposed, I hope you clean rust and paint the insides of the frame rails. I did best I could using wire brushes and Rust Destroyer primer on rag on a stiff wire when I replaced the passenger floor pan and a small section of the driver's pan in my 1965 Dart. Eastwood sells a tube w/ spray head to snake inside to spray rust primer with floor pans in place (I never used). If you get inside the doors, they also need paint at the top since the factory barely sprayed upward in those.
 
If you ever change to a Magnum V-8 engine (5.2 or 5.9L) and its transmission (for lockup & overdrive), the trans tunnel must be cut out in a few places and reformed larger, even for 1967 floor pans. Search posts here which did that if interested.
 
If you ever change to a Magnum V-8 engine (5.2 or 5.9L) and its transmission (for lockup & overdrive), the trans tunnel must be cut out in a few places and reformed larger, even for 1967 floor pans. Search posts here which did that if interested.

It is a 5.9 magnum right now. Its in front of a 904 so currently there's no problem. Might be a good time to make those modifications anyway.
 
Made a template of the old versus new profile. The lines represent the existing crossmember and the upper edge, the new floor profile.
View attachment 1715551835

Great idea on the template! You could always get a piece of 1/4" flat bar that is the same width as the existing torsion bar crossmember bent to the same shape as your new floor pan. Leave the lower ends long, and then cut the torsion bar crossmember out and weld the flat bar in. You could then spot weld the new floor pan to the bar, and it all would be as strong or stronger than what is there now. That would give you room down the road to install an A500 or A518 OD transmission if you ever so desire.
 
Great idea on the template! You could always get a piece of 1/4" flat bar that is the same width as the existing torsion bar crossmember bent to the same shape as your new floor pan. Leave the lower ends long, and then cut the torsion bar crossmember out and weld the flat bar in. You could then spot weld the new floor pan to the bar, and it all would be as strong or stronger than what is there now. That would give you room down the road to install an A500 or A518 OD transmission if you ever so desire.


There are a few later A bodies at the yard. I'm considering butchering a cross member and grafting the section in.
 
Great idea on the template! You could always get a piece of 1/4" flat bar that is the same width as the existing torsion bar crossmember bent to the same shape as your new floor pan. Leave the lower ends long, and then cut the torsion bar crossmember out and weld the flat bar in. You could then spot weld the new floor pan to the bar, and it all would be as strong or stronger than what is there now. That would give you room down the road to install an A500 or A518 OD transmission if you ever so desire.


Ahhh, just saw this... I like it....

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/transtunne2-jpg.304214/
 
I have a '67 2 door sedan that I'm putting a full AMD floor in. I'm going to split the floor right over the center of the torsion bar crossmember and stitch it back together there. It will be invisible from underneath...
 
I have a '67 2 door sedan that I'm putting a full AMD floor in. I'm going to split the floor right over the center of the torsion bar crossmember and stitch it back together there. It will be invisible from underneath...

Why would you need to split it? An AMD floor pan will fit a 67-76 A body perfectly without cutting it. On a sedan, you might have to take the windshield out to get it in as one piece. If you don't want to do that, and don't need anything but the front half...then it might be best to cut it.
 
Why would you need to split it? An AMD floor pan will fit a 67-76 A body perfectly without cutting it. On a sedan, you might have to take the windshield out to get it in as one piece. If you don't want to do that, and don't need anything but the front half...then it might be best to cut it.

It won't fit in the door or through the windshield on a sedan...
 
Makes perfect sense then! I wouldn't want to disassemble half the car to get it to come in from the bottom. :BangHead: That would be the only other way to do it in one piece. Your way would be much easier and just as effective for a sedan.
:thumbsup:
 
Makes perfect sense then! I wouldn't want to disassemble half the car to get it to come in from the bottom. :BangHead: That would be the only other way to do it in one piece. Your way would be much easier and just as effective for a sedan.
:thumbsup:

Not possible to go from under as the floor sit on top of the sills and crossmembers. It's an easy job on a hardtop or convertible. Much more complex on a sedan.
 
-
Back
Top