I love dark green darts!
Start of a Dart
- Thread starter halfafish
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I love dark green darts!
Dartsun
Mopar Dude
My 69 Dart came with the green interior and that’s what I bought for it. Was thinking of painting outside white with green interior. I originally thought dark green but thought that was just to much green.
looking better, we might end up done at the same time LOL
Looks a teeny bit less wretched is closer to the truth. I'd like to drive it for the 4th of July. Probably a bit ambitious but we will see how it goes. Yours looks LOTS nicer. 
may look nicer but just like yours it is a jackstand ornament
Haha. Yours is way closer to hitting the floor than mine.
Im taking off a few days in another week, hoping I get a good push then, will see what happens.
The pressure washer did a great job stripping off all the last of the junk under the car. It's ready for some steel wool to scruff up the paint, then a final wipe-down, primer, and undercoat.
The new frame subconnectors came in and got a quick clean and paint job, they will go in after I get the bottom side primed and new undercoat on.
The 8-3/4 is ready to go back together but I hit a snag. I can't find the gasket which is easy to fix, but this little booger was a problem. It's the button used to space factory axle shafts apart.
It is supposed to come apart by pushing out a roll pin and it falls into two pieces but after two hours of screwing with it I figured there had to be something wrong and took it to the drivetrain guys. They found out it's really a solid one-piece button and has to be removed via dissembly of the pumpkin. $75 and one day later I have it back ready to go. I'll grab a gasket after work and put this together tomorrow.
The new frame subconnectors came in and got a quick clean and paint job, they will go in after I get the bottom side primed and new undercoat on.
The 8-3/4 is ready to go back together but I hit a snag. I can't find the gasket which is easy to fix, but this little booger was a problem. It's the button used to space factory axle shafts apart.
It is supposed to come apart by pushing out a roll pin and it falls into two pieces but after two hours of screwing with it I figured there had to be something wrong and took it to the drivetrain guys. They found out it's really a solid one-piece button and has to be removed via dissembly of the pumpkin. $75 and one day later I have it back ready to go. I'll grab a gasket after work and put this together tomorrow.
DocHolliday1995
Well-Known Member
I'm almost done restoring my 69. I welded the trim holes up on mine, take your time, if it's too hot to touch it's too hot to weld. I did them about 5 holes at a time, using small tack welds
j par
Well-hung Member
Those frame connectors... how much did you pay for those two pieces of straight metal?...
$240 since you asked, but unless you're volunteering to start paying my bills that's irrelevant. Some of us decide to take this route on purpose and have no interest in fabbing these up. I have other fish to fry at the moment. These will take no more than an hour to be finished and I will move on to the next thing. I want the car running by July 4th which is moderately ambitious.
j par
Well-hung Member
TWO HUNDRED AND FORTY DOLLARS!!!..
Holy sheep s*** Batman.... You're going to need somebody to pay your bills tossing money out like that!!!.. and you had to paint them? I would have thought they would have been powder coated in gold for that lol... You do realize they're going to have to be welded in to be of any substance?..
^^^^^ Blah, blah, blah. We've had this conversation before and lucky for both of us, while I value your thoughts and experience I'm no mini-me for j par.
A few mouse clicks and two days later they are here. Drill eight holes, install eight bolts, done. I can weld them up later when other things are completed. And some of us have poor-to-nonexistent fab skills. We all make value decisions based on our priorities.
A few mouse clicks and two days later they are here. Drill eight holes, install eight bolts, done. I can weld them up later when other things are completed. And some of us have poor-to-nonexistent fab skills. We all make value decisions based on our priorities.
j par
Well-hung Member
Sorry my bad I just have a hard time wrapping my head around $240...^^^^^ Blah, blah, blah. We've had this conversation before and lucky for both of us, while I value your thoughts and experience I'm no mini-me for j par.
A few mouse clicks and two days later they are here. Drill eight holes, install eight bolts, done. I can weld them up later when other things are completed. And some of us have poor-to-nonexistent fab skills. We all make value decisions based on our priorities.
16 holes and make sure they're in line with each other lol... You know I'm just busting your seeds but the term swiss cheese comes to mind LOL...
More parts have arrived. Patch panels for the quarters (which is upside down in the photo...) for the reflectors. The rubber bumpers for the front bumper. The patch piece for the area at the rear of the spare tire well to fix whatever all those holes were for.
Tomorrow is priming the underside and getting it undercoated.
Tomorrow is priming the underside and getting it undercoated.
And I went on a search-and-destroy at the local PNP. I didn't find anything I was looking for, but I did find a nice 5K/10K 2" receiver hitch for a truck that someone had kindly removed to get the rear bumper but left it behind. I snagged that plus the 7-pin and 4-pin wiring harnesses for $25. And I harvested this boatload of nuts, bolts, fasteners, and so forth. All of which were lying in/on vehicles, I just had to scoop them up. The drain pain is 14" across and is 2" deep in them. 
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Is your welder guy gonna install the spare tire well I sent you?
Well, sort of. The first welder-guy had a pretty casual viewpoint of when he could get to it. My mechanic buddy knows a better one but I haven't talked to him yet.
Another friend has a MIG with gas, I may just give this a whirl myself. I need to do the bottom of the well that I got from you, as well as the piece to repair all the holes where (I think) the PO had a battery cutoff switch. It's a mess back there with one big jagged hole and about 20 screw holes where he attached a mounting plate for the switch.
And to complicate matters, the friend with the MIG had a situation pop up where he's going to need some free labor (that would be me) to help him out for a bit. I suspect the car will be on a slow track for a few weeks.
j par
Well-hung Member
I have welded in trunk wheel wells and plenty of floorboards with my $89 Harbor Freight flux wire welder. Turned out great... It's really simple to use.. no I'm not suggesting welding a roll cage with it or something that needs to save your life but for a little aesthetic welding especially internally like a trunk or a floorboard they were great...
Dartsun
Mopar Dude
I’ll +1 Jpar on the flux wire welder. My roommate at the time welded in his trunk floor 66 Dart 110v flux and it turned out great.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Flux core stuff ain't bad. I used if for years before I went mig and never looked back. However if you can solder, or braze, you can wire weld. The biggie is heat and wire feed speed. Too much heat, not enough wire, you pop holes in it. Not enough heat, and too much wire, and you get bird poops.
Doing something like the pan, you want to put tack welds all around about an inch apart to prevent distortion. Let it cool, then put more tack welds an inch apart all around, let cool, and continue until the entire weld looks like 1 continuous seam all around. Then grind it down, tape around it about 1/2 outside the weld on either side, primer it, and seam sealer it. Then pull the tape while the seam sealer is wet.
I recommend scrap metal practice on stuff the same thickness prior to doing the real deal. Welding on something like that spare well you will have to feed a little more wire to weld it than when you practice on a flat table because it's a vertical surface your trying to join together.
Doing something like the pan, you want to put tack welds all around about an inch apart to prevent distortion. Let it cool, then put more tack welds an inch apart all around, let cool, and continue until the entire weld looks like 1 continuous seam all around. Then grind it down, tape around it about 1/2 outside the weld on either side, primer it, and seam sealer it. Then pull the tape while the seam sealer is wet.
I recommend scrap metal practice on stuff the same thickness prior to doing the real deal. Welding on something like that spare well you will have to feed a little more wire to weld it than when you practice on a flat table because it's a vertical surface your trying to join together.
Princess Valiant
A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
Subscribed
jcmeyer5
Token Ford Guy
Nice work so far. I guess I am in the competition with you guys to see who can get theirs done first. I have the metal work done, engine running and installed, and interior gutted.
on the welding, You can do it. You aren’t bead welding. You are tack welding. Just be sure that when you get to the point where your tacos are right on top of each other that you overlap them or you will have pin holes. Good luck!
on the welding, You can do it. You aren’t bead welding. You are tack welding. Just be sure that when you get to the point where your tacos are right on top of each other that you overlap them or you will have pin holes. Good luck!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
My tacos are never right on top of one another. I tend to eat them too fast.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Cool car and nice project! You have made alot of progress in a short time! I cant believe I haven't see this until now! I'm following along now.
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