Cost for A Body 8.75 Rear End

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Jdkenned360

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There’s a guy local to me that’s asking $650 for an open diff 2.76 with a 741 center case. I hear these a body 8.75 are going for higher cost but $650 with a 741 seems high compared to what I’ve seen some people scoop them up for on here. I would be ditching the center case for a 742 or 489.

I’m steering away from cutting down b and e body housings in fear of warping it and the cost to get it cut down professionally would put me around the 650 range anyway I suppose I’d be in a better position though with a bigger center case

Dropping a b body rear end in a dart sounds extremely limiting on wheel options. I’ve been getting some great feed back on my wanted post in regards of info. Hoping to get some cost estimates here :)
 
Dart Sport or Dart Swinger?? If it's a Dart Sport, a '65-67 B-body drops right in and works great. '68-70's work well too.
 
You could probably get a B, C, E, or truck 8-3/4 cut down and welded to A body specs for less and probably be better than a factory one.
 
I bought recently a A-body 8-3/4 housing, axles and full small bolt drum brakes with good bell style drums for $450.00
I called DR Diff and bought the green bearing Big bolt pattern axles for 10" x 2-1/2" drum brakes.
I had a 741 SG 3.23 center chuck I paid $300 about 2 years ago locally.
After gaskets, seals, all new brake parts and the axles and lines i'm all in at about $1100.00
Oh yea! add paint and primer. LOL!
 
it’s a 1969 dart custom so I’m not sure where that puts me lol
I've never tried in that body style, but they move each tire out about 1". The leaf perches
are only about a 1/2 wider, and I just oval the hole a 1/4 inch and pull the leafs the other 1/4" and drop it in.
 
why do you prefer a 742 or 489 over the 741...just curious
I did not make the comment but part of the answer is strength, the pinion is smaller in diameter. But for me the availability of new gears is limited to 2 ratios, 742 a few more, 489 even more

As for housings... How much putting can you stand? I have now bought 2 housings one is a So Cal housing no putting, but some numb nuts used round (not OEM flattened) u bolts and crushed the tubing, (I bought it seeing photos only) the second one had wear from loose OEM u bolts, I paid 650 for the first one (it was my first purchase and I did not know what to look for) 500 for the second but I can use it as is.
 
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I bought recently a A-body 8-3/4 housing, axles and full small bolt drum brakes with good bell style drums for $450.00
I called DR Diff and bought the green bearing Big bolt pattern axles for 10" x 2-1/2" drum brakes.
I had a 741 SG 3.23 center chuck I paid $300 about 2 years ago locally.
After gaskets, seals, all new brake parts and the axles and lines i'm all in at about $1100.00
Oh yea! add paint and primer. LOL!


Oh I’m sure I won’t get away with a full rear end without dropping some decent coin. I just want to make it bulletproof so I won’t have to worry about it again. I have no plans on tracking this car at the moment but who knows 10 years down the road. Just future proofing
 
it’s a 1969 dart custom so I’m not sure where that puts me lol

So keep in mind that A-Body with BBP axles, and any B-Body rear is going to widen the track as well as any 73-up from 4.5x5 disc brake swap so keep wheel offset in mind. 67-69 Darts don't have near the room as Dusters, Dart Sports, and 67-up Barracudas have. So plan what rims you want to run and fit them accordingly. Lets just say Zero or Negative offset will not work here which it what you will find the most of for these cars.
 
Oh I’m sure I won’t get away with a full rear end without dropping some decent coin. I just want to make it bulletproof so I won’t have to worry about it again. I have no plans on tracking this car at the moment but who knows 10 years down the road. Just future proofing
Yes, I understand. Trying to guess what the future will bring is kinda like bathing a cat.
I swapped out a 8-1/4 rear to the 8-3/4 for one reason- i can change gears very easily. The 3.23 sg will be way better than the 2.45 - 8-1/4 rear with a ratchet locker I built. It was only for the engine break in. After breaking in the engine it was kinda of a slug and needed more take off umpf. So I went 8-3/4 BUT If I decide to run at track I can drop in a set of lower gears if I want or go backwards to 2.76 if I chose. Very easily too now. It's just a lot of money for that option. Great luck with your path. I wish you the best.
Joe
 
So keep in mind that A-Body with BBP axles, and any B-Body rear is going to widen the track as well as any 73-up from 4.5x5 disc brake swap so keep wheel offset in mind. 67-69 Darts don't have near the room as Dusters, Dart Sports, and 67-up Barracudas have. So plan what rims you want to run and fit them accordingly. Lets just say Zero or Negative offset will not work here which it what you will find the most of for these cars.
Exactly that’s why I wanted to steer away from a direct drop in from a b body rearend. Darts wheel wells don’t have nearly the same room. I’ll have to find an a body rear end or bite the bullet and cut up b,c, or e.

Anyone try cutting and welding on their own? I see Mancini racing sells brand new perches and flanges. I’m just worried about warping. If anyone came up with a jig I’d love to see some pictures
 
You do realize that 340 cars came with 741’s? In my 65 years I’ve never seen a 741pinion snap. And the 1 3/8 pinion diameter is larger than the famed 9” Ford. Hell if you worried about strength down the road , build a Dana 60.
 
You do realize that 340 cars came with 741’s? In my 65 years I’ve never seen a 741pinion snap. And the 1 3/8 pinion diameter is larger than the famed 9” Ford. Hell if you worried about strength down the road , build a Dana 60.
I agree with you. I had a very warmed over 440 in HS it had a 741 case with 391's I beat on that poor car for years and raced it. Never a problem.
 
Do you think $650 for an a body 741 rear end is fair? no brakes on it but I plan to convert to disc anyway

I suppose I could always source a 742 or 489 down the road
 
Exactly that’s why I wanted to steer away from a direct drop in from a b body rearend. Darts wheel wells don’t have nearly the same room. I’ll have to find an a body rear end or bite the bullet and cut up b,c, or e.

Anyone try cutting and welding on their own? I see Mancini racing sells brand new perches and flanges. I’m just worried about warping. If anyone came up with a jig I’d love to see some pictures

The wider rear can help, depending on what you plan to run. If it's 15" if smaller forget about it, you'll be hard pressed to find positive offset wheels that will fit right and in my opinion look right. There are far more modern and aftermarket wheels in 17" that have a positive offset, will fit and look right. Lots of Folks use 94-up Mustang spec rims. I went custom American Racing wheels.

So plan ahead to the total package on brakes/axles and the track width you'll get and the rims that will fit.

I'll add there are far more tire options is 17" than 15".
 
There’s a guy local to me that’s asking $650 for an open diff 2.76 with a 741 center case. I hear these a body 8.75 are going for higher cost but $650 with a 741 seems high compared to what I’ve seen some people scoop them up for on here. I would be ditching the center case for a 742 or 489.

I’m steering away from cutting down b and e body housings in fear of warping it and the cost to get it cut down professionally would put me around the 650 range anyway I suppose I’d be in a better position though with a bigger center case

Dropping a b body rear end in a dart sounds extremely limiting on wheel options. I’ve been getting some great feed back on my wanted post in regards of info. Hoping to get some cost estimates here :)


Why spend $650 for a bunch of parts that you are going to scrap anyway? Just buy a new 8.75 housing made to the length you want it and forget the resto crowd prices. If you aren't restoring a car then don't pay resto prices for parts you don't really need. Have Doctor Diff build you a new 8.75 rear end if that is what you want. He can supply it with disc brakes already installed and your choice of differential.
 
I've paid up to 400 for an a body rear drum to drum with 3.91 auburn.

Cheapest I ever paid was 100 bucks.

It's 2020...650 is nothing.
Everyone wants something for free is what it seems like...

Btw 741 case holds up fine with 410cid and 500's hp
 
Why spend $650 for a bunch of parts that you are going to scrap anyway? Just buy a new 8.75 housing made to the length you want it and forget the resto crowd prices. If you aren't restoring a car then don't pay resto prices for parts you don't really need. Have Doctor Diff build you a new 8.75 rear end if that is what you want. He can supply it with disc brakes already installed and your choice of differential.


650.00 is a lot cheaper than over 2K....No offense...doctor diff is great but axle is 775.00 and center sections are 1275.00....add discs brakes etc... etc. ...scroll down

Mopar A-Body 8 3/4" Housing & Axle Package
 
for the bigger pinion size. Isn’t the 741 pinion size the same thickness as a 7.25 rear end?

It's splitting hairs as to which one is stronger. The 741 case came behind both 383 and 340 cars. TO argue over strength is really not an argument.....at least to those who've run them all.
 
650.00 is a lot cheaper than over 2K....No offense...doctor diff is great but axle is 775.00 and center sections are 1275.00....add discs brakes etc... etc. ...scroll down

Mopar A-Body 8 3/4" Housing & Axle Package
Yea $650 will get me an a body housing and a 741 center section without shipping fees.

Just to get a the housing on Drdiffs page is 775 plus whatever shipping is. I have time to shop around, my 7.25 rear end is still fine. I just want to get some ball park estimates and ideas.

Everyone seems to agree that the 741’s can handle 500hp. I don’t plan to ever go over that number. A mild 408 will be the end goal. This winter I plan to install a TKO 500. I already have the hydraulic clutch pedal installed in my now 727 car LOL
 
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