Ignition problems.

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Thanks 1969383S- the color helps! But I found a strange problem when I tried to refer to the supplemental wiring diagram. My wire colors in the engine compartment bulkheads are completely different than the diagram's. Is the wiring in the supplement wrong also, or did someone before me change a lot of wiring around? I can't think someone would change the wires in a bulkhead connection. I'm gonna make my own diagram to show you guys the difference...

Hard to tell! The car Being over 50 who knows what has been done to it over the years. Do not discount an error on my part either. Compare mine to the supplement to be sure.

Also look at the 68 and 69 drawings posted. Someone may have swapped in a later harness?
 
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Here's the comparison...
WIRING DIA.JPG
 
Hard to tell! The car Being over 50 who knows what has been done to it over the years. Do not discount an error on my part either. Compare mine to the supplement to be sure.

Also look at the 68 and 69 drawings posted. Someone may have swapped in a later harness?
That's a good idea. Your colors are spot on with the supplemental. Just not with my car's.
 
Hard to tell! The car Being over 50 who knows what has been done to it over the years. Do not discount an error on my part either. Compare mine to the supplement to be sure.

Also look at the 68 and 69 drawings posted. Someone may have swapped in a later harness?
I checked out the '68 diagram, and it seems to match. Maybe mine was a late '67 model, and they started using the '68 harnesses?
 
I'm currently redoing my 67 dash harness, so I know there are differences between 67 thru 9 cudas. All have subtle 1 year only differences, and that includes the wiring. See pics here of 67 headlight switch connector(different than 68). And the headlight dimmer switch. Wire colors are different.
*** in Headlight switch connector ** the pink wires are doubled. Pic doesnt show it tho.
I checked out the '68 diagram, and it seems to match. Maybe mine was a late '67 model, and they started using the '68 harnesses?

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I checked out the '68 diagram, and it seems to match. Maybe mine was a late '67 model, and they started using the '68 harnesses?

Hopefully one of three will help you. What is the sales order date on the fender Tag? Could be a late year change or someone has replaced it.

There is always two sides to that bulkhead as well! On the inside it may be 67 and mismatched!

Remember just how old these cars are! look at the whole picture for sure. I did not encounter these issues as the 69 drawing matched throughout for me and only bad mods through the years and age. I see this all the time and 4spdragtop is going through this, not of his making but his car got some new harness's at some point and were incorrect. Don't blame the manufacturer, it is the end user that usually screws up and orders the wrong piece.

I bit the bullet and replaced every one of the harnesses, What was not available M&H made for me, worth every Dime!
 
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Is the connector installed the correct direction? That could explain some of the wire positions.

This is the view looking at the firewall from the engine compartment.
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I don't think I've found any errors in the engine compartment diagram.
The only ones that are confusing are the tach wire (absent if car didn't come with tach); and the wiper motor wires which vary with the three different motors that came on those cars.
On the interior, the reverse light wire is blue instead of violet.
And I think there is one wire marked with two different colors, but that might have been a different year.

Big change from 67 to 68 was relocating the battery feed from Z to J.
Also the headlight wire colors were changed. Violet replaced black.
 
The Tach wire was always a separate bulkhead, just above the right side of the master and or booster/master. As viewed from the front.
 
The Tach wire was always a separate bulkhead, just above the right side of the master and or booster/master. As viewed from the front.
Its included in the bulkhead connector for '67 only. '68 its a grommet. That shows up in the assembly diagrams too.
 
Please experiment with the Layer switch in Adobe reader to hide and unhide circuits. Feed back is welcome and these can be even better.
Yes it works! :) I'm using PDF-Viewer on this machine and had to find the layer control. I think that should be a big help when trying to follow a specific circuit.
 
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Yes it works! :) I'm using PDF-Viewer on this machine and had to find the layer control. I think that should be a big help when trying to follow a specific circuit.

Feed back is welcome! As you may see the 68 and 69 have been revised for either, My mistakes or found mistakes on Mapars side!
 
Once the 67/69 fish drawings are ironed out with layers ETC, I will release the Dart Drawings for 64/69 and Fish 64/66 and apply the same.
 
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And as I do not own the rights to this stuff as they are "fully" reproduction of Chrysler material I offer for free. Can't get in trouble that way!
 
And as I do not own the rights to this stuff as they are "fully" reproduction of Chrysler material I offer for free. Can't get in trouble that way!
The drawings really helped! One note: the gray color doesn't show up when I print it. May be too light?
 
Is the connector installed the correct direction? That could explain some of the wire positions.

This is the view looking at the firewall from the engine compartment.
View attachment 1715509488

I don't think I've found any errors in the engine compartment diagram.
The only ones that are confusing are the tach wire (absent if car didn't come with tach); and the wiper motor wires which vary with the three different motors that came on those cars.
On the interior, the reverse light wire is blue instead of violet.
And I think there is one wire marked with two different colors, but that might have been a different year.

Big change from 67 to 68 was relocating the battery feed from Z to J.
Also the headlight wire colors were changed. Violet replaced black.
Yeah, my headlight wires are violet, and power goes in J.
 
Yeah, my headlight wires are violet, and power goes in J.
Well that's 68 then. If there is a tachometer wire, it should go through a grommet.
Inside connector to the body wiring got two more terminals for a total of 8 cavities. (To see that you have to remove the drivers door sill, and kick panel.)
Another electrical change would be the side markers, which don't exist on a '67.
Seems like you have an interesting puzzle. As long as you like puzzles its a part of the journey and adventure!
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Okay, it's been a while since I made an update on the HEI conversion problem. This one is a bona fide "how'd that happen".
As you'll recall from earlier, I followed an article from slant six forum on how to put an HEI system in a Mopar. Well, I'd been having no success re-reading and rechecking my wiring, making sure all was right. And it was. But no spark.
So long story short(er) I pulled my distributor again, wondering if I should just go back to points. While I had it out, I noticed the mark on my old dist. that I had put on there to show where my timing should be set. So I took the time to carefully place the mark in the exact spot on the new dist. before putting it back in and once more double checking (for the fourth time) that all my connections are correct. I also added some extra ground wires to a couple of the components.
Hooked up the battery, dumped some gas in the carb, and turned her over, expecting the same result. But by God she fired up! But I have to keep feathering the gas to keep her going.
Today, I got both my boys to help me out- one to keep her going on the gas, one to run the timing light, and I was twisting the dist. My son on the gun helped me dial her in, but she still dies when left to idle. Still scratching my head, I noticed that a connector to the relay had disconnected. "Well there's the problem!" I thought, and corrected the connection.
"Okay Mitch, try her again", I said, and when he cranked her over, no spark! What the Hell! I thought. So I disconnected the wire that I had corrected. And didn't she fire up again!
Well now TOTALLY perplexed, I went back to the article. I had to have done SOMETHING wrong! It was then that I realized there are two different types of relays. The article calls for a "normally open" 4 prong SPST. I had installed a "normally closed" one. If that EXACT wire (of the 4) hadn't disconnected, I think I'd still be trying to get spark!
So now I'm waiting for amazon to send one to me. Hopefully, this will be the answer!
 
i used petronix for 4 years very reliable , no balast resistor I went back to factory with a FBO ECU has been working great up to 7200 rpm . the fctory ignition is very reliable have never had a major problem , maybe two balast resistors in 10 years
 
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