Start of a Dart

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They turned out way better than I expected. It took a while, but once about half way done, it started to click and I banged out the second half. The right tool is the key (MIG with gas). Once the settings were adjusted right it went on like cake frosting.



Those are new ones from Firm Feel, their standard A-body springs. The rear end is new too, 8-3/4, Dr. Diff BBP axles, 3.23 gears and a sure-grip. Things are getting fun now, I expect to finish off the rear half of this project maybe today or so, then go after the front end rebuild.

Oh man you're down quite the rabbit hole, an expensive rabbit hole too! Im looking forward to seeing how your car sits with the new springs because I'll eventually get new springs as well. What shocks did you go with, I dont remember seeing that?

I just had to pay for national boards part 2 which was 600 bucks. In November I have to pay for the national licensing exam which is 3k and state licensing which is another 2500! How the heck do they expect students with no jobs to fork out that kind of money lol.
 
The springs were spendy, like $500 or so. I got them a while back for the Valiant but stole them for the Dart. The Valiant will get something more sedate, probably from General Spring.

For shocks I was going to steal the Bilstiens from the Valiant but got a pretty good deal on a set of QA1 single adjustables so those are going on instead.

No wonder it costs so much for dental work. They soak you guys big time before you can hang your shingle and see your first customer.
 
I used a different process on the LCA pivot bushings than most - once I removed the old bushing down to the final pressed in sleeve I use my air chisel and scored down the side of the sleeve, a little hammer action and they came right out, collateral damage was minimal and cleaned up easily with a little sanding/filing. I found it much easier, cheaper, and quicker than the 2 other methods in the video over in the tech section.
 
Here's the update from Tuesday. The JB weld is on the semi-pitted areas of the trunk, both sides. It's nice and solid now.

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The first fuel line is in and I'm really glad I shelled out the dough for these, it would have been very difficult to make all these bends. I got them from In-Line Tube and have to say they were just about perfect. Many thanks to @j par who stopped by for a few and wound up helping me get this in place. We had to do a little bit of fiddling to get it in, but seriously this is the way to go. Easy-Peasy.

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Hmmm. Not sure how that last photo got in there again, and now I can't delete it. I guess y'all can look at it all over!
 
I am also one of those also-rans in the rabbit hole. Bill knows me and my car - we've exchanged info on the various aspects of the rabbit hole!

@Demonx2 , welcome, Fellow Traveler of the Rabbit Hole! It's always good to meet another soul who wanders the dark passages. When one of us gets lost down there, it's helpful to bump into someone who can point the way back home.

Last night I got the return fuel line plumbed in. This one I got a roll of line from the parts store and did myself, as it's far less critical than the main fuel line. I matched it up and zip-tied it to the main line. It took a while but it worked out nicely.

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I got the shocks and U-bolts installed and torqued down and the brakes set in place. I started to get the axles in but they are VERY tight in the housing. I didn't want to mess anything up so I sent a note to Cass at Dr. Diff to make sure this is how they fit. I'll have to drive them in with a BFH, assuming nothing is wrong.

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Today is trunk paint day, finish the rear end if possible, and get the wheels and tires on. Then swap ends and start on the front brake swap and suspension rebuild! :D:D:D
 
@Demonx2 , welcome, Fellow Traveler of the Rabbit Hole! It's always good to meet another soul who wanders the dark passages. When one of us gets lost down there, it's helpful to bump into someone who can point the way back home.

Last night I got the return fuel line plumbed in. This one I got a roll of line from the parts store and did myself, as it's far less critical than the main fuel line. I matched it up and zip-tied it to the main line. It took a while but it worked out nicely.

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I got the shocks and U-bolts installed and torqued down and the brakes set in place. I started to get the axles in but they are VERY tight in the housing. I didn't want to mess anything up so I sent a note to Cass at Dr. Diff to make sure this is how they fit. I'll have to drive them in with a BFH, assuming nothing is wrong.

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Today is trunk paint day, finish the rear end if possible, and get the wheels and tires on. Then swap ends and start on the front brake swap and suspension rebuild! :D:D:D
These kind of Rabbit Holes never seem to end. "Roller ready to go...." famous last words. I'll leave it at that!
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More work last night trying to get the new axles to seat but I'm having no luck. I can get them in place but they won't go the last 3/16" or so. I stopped until I can figure out why they are getting hung up. I did get the trunk in primer. I know I'm doing a partial job here but I needed to get the worst of the rust under control and get it protected. I will have to revisit this in the future but for now it's good enough and I have bigger fish to fry.

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Since the axles were ALMOST in, I had to take a new tire/wheel and mock it up. I think this looks totally badass, it's going to be so cool when I finally drive this hunkojunk down the street.

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Lots of work yesterday, not a lot of progress. Just for fun, here's why I am a card-carrying member of Idiots Anonymous. I have to leave myself reminders so I don't omit something vital, like adding the rear end fluid and drive off ruining $1500 worth of rear end. Hello, my name is halfafish, and I'm an idiot!

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And why do I stop at yard sales all the time? It's stuff like this, a German dial caliper in both metric and standard - it's in fantastic condition for only five bucks. Used it last night trying to figure out the emergency brake cables.

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Axles might need to be trimmed at splined end. Measure the axles and the housing again.

I did remeasure, the axles are 28" and the housing is 52-5/8". I'm working with Cass to figure this out - there has to be something that's holding up the show, I just can't figure out what it is.
 
Yup. Green bearings. Cass had some good ideas, I'm heading to the shop to investigate.
 
I measured and trimmed my own axles, used an electric grinder with a cutting wheel, wasn't to hard but I was definitely worried about messing up 500 dollar axles.

As for your fuel line, it looks good! It literally runs the exact same was as the front to rear brake line. I made my own, it wasnt actually to hard. Measure 2x, and bend once. My line runs maybe 95% of the same way the original line runs. The premade lines definitely would make things easier, but 200 vs 30 bucks is quite a bit of dough for us poor dental students. :D
 
I got the axles in, and a big shout-out for Cass at Dr. Diff. He was answering emails on the weekend, and helped me figure out why the axles would not seat fully. It turns out I did not install the grease seals deep enough, which kept the axle sitting out about 3/16". I fixed that and they slid right home like a hot knife through butter. Then I got the brakes installed, along with the wheels and tires. Next up is hanging the rest of the brake lines ans wrapping up the last of the rear axle.

I did see an issue though. When I bought the wheels and tires, I measured carefully and mocked up to make sure it would fit. However, I did not know going to BBP axles would add 1/4" to each side. And wouldn't you know it, I that's exactly what I need to clear the fenders. I will address this in a separate thread, I think I need some widespread help to solve this problem. However, I thought the tires when mocked up looked badass, and now that they are installed for real, I say hell yeah!

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Ooh I meant to ask! Your main fuel line, is it the 3/8 fuel line or the 5/16 fuel line. The return fuel line, is it a 1/4?
 
Ooh I meant to ask! Your main fuel line, is it the 3/8 fuel line or the 5/16 fuel line. The return fuel line, is it a 1/4?

The main line is 5/16, the return is 1/4. I only did the return because the new tank was plumbed for it, and I figured it was an easy way to fight vapor lock. I'm not going to do fuel injection so a 5/16 line will give me all I could need for a carb setup.
 
I think he just needs to roll those fenders and he will be good... spoken as the last words before the storm right there....

That's one way to skin this cat. I talked to Wheel Vintiques who made my steelies. They can do custom backspacing but they are out of some parts to make up the wheels. That would be my first choice. If the time drags out to get more BS on the wheels, I can always go down a tire size or so and roll the fender lips. I have LOTS of work to do yet, so I am going to move forward while I see what the backorder situation is for correct wheels.
 
That's one way to skin this cat. I talked to Wheel Vintiques who made my steelies. They can do custom backspacing but they are out of some parts to make up the wheels. That would be my first choice. If the time drags out to get more BS on the wheels, I can always go down a tire size or so and roll the fender lips. I have LOTS of work to do yet, so I am going to move forward while I see what the backorder situation is for correct wheels.

What size wheels and tires? I have 8.75 w/ steelies, 15x7 and 4.5 bs I believe (what ever was on the 88 diplomat), rear tires are 245/15/60 (i think on the 60, but pretty sure)
 
What size wheels and tires?

The rears are 15x7 with 4.25 BS. Tires are 255/60-15. I have virtually no clearance to the fender, but an inch to the spring. If I can get a 4.75" BS wheel that will solve the problem. I will check into the Diplomat wheels, even another 1/4" would be a huge help.
 
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