Electric Choke

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jau126

'65 Dart GT 273 904
Joined
Jun 7, 2020
Messages
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Location
Salt Lake City, UT
I know there are some more general discussions on the form with electric choke questions and answers. I am looking for more specific solutions and thoughts from early A owners. I have a '65 Dart with very original wiring so I do not want to hack it up and make it difficult to diagnose later on.
I have a relay and a inline fuse (10 Amps) to use for the choke but I am looking for a good source to trip the relay (and power source) or alternative solutions that have already been done.
I have some ideas and thoughts but there is plenty to learn and a lot of prior experience from other remembers that I do not have.

Thank you
 
The blue wire that plugs into the inlet side of the ballast is a 12+ source from the ignition switch in the "run" position. This would be the easiest place to get your 12+. You can run a new wire from this location to your electric choke with your inline fuse holder. I don't really thing you need a relay on this small circuit but you can if you want to. Just use your new wire to activate the relay and run a second wire right off the alternator + stud to power the choke.
 
There is only one source, period. that is "ignition run" or IGN1, usually dark blue, and comes from the ignition switch

^^EDIT^^ I was typing same time LOL

Also you could use the output of that relay to feed the VR. Often that blue "run" line suffers VOLTAGE DROP in these old girls. This causes OVER charging (overvoltage) because the VR sees lower voltage and ramps up the alternator output

You could do this with a reversible modification. Unplug the blue wire at the ballast. Use that connector to trigger the relay. Wire the relay load output back to the ballast terminal. Also pull the VR connector off, and wire the relay output over to that. You can do this with push on "flag" terminals and not cut anything.

Feed the relay power from the "big stud" on the starter relay through a fuse/ breaker.
 
Just to verify... The ballast is the white thing on the fire wall with the two connection points near the distributor/factory coil location.
Pain in the butt to verify these things alone with a multi-meter as I have heard you do not want to leave in in the run position without it running.
 
Also were would you pick up ground? Edelbrock sends such a short ground wire it makes me think the have people attach it to a carb stud. Seems a little strange but an easy way to do it. Seems easy enough to run over to the main battery ground if needed.
 
Yes the ballast is the white block usually mounted on the firewall. Some wiper motors have a similar one mounted very close or onto the motor so don't confuse the two. If you need to do some voltage checking with the key "on" then unplug either wire off the ballast........this will kill power to the coil and won't burn up the points

Something like the carb mtg studs are a good ground. The engine block is as good a ground as the battery. After all it carries cranking current, and you are only talking about a few amps
 
I just wired my electric choke last week. I used the carb stud for the ground. It was a PITA getting that ground wire plugged into the electric choke terminal. Talk about a tight fit.
 
i also used what would be the ballast wiring. The slant electric choke does not have a ground wire, it grounds through the case/themo sender.
 
Thank you for all the replies. I had initially and foolishly put the relay inline before the coil as the trigger. Maybe I read the pins wrong but lost spark when I did that. Took it out of the circuit and spark came back. Hopefully it will be resolved tonight. Not many weeks left of good driving weather in SLC.
 
IDK? Edelbrock says to not power it from the coil circuit because it drops to 6V after start. So that would have given me the signal and I was planing to take power of the back of the alternator. But the ballast resistor method should work.
 
Back of the alternator
IDK? Edelbrock says to not power it from the coil circuit because it drops to 6V after start. So that would have given me the signal and I was planing to take power of the back of the alternator. But the ballast resistor method should work.
The voltage doesn't drop on the 12v. input side. It does on the distributor side.
 
Are you voting for the relay method and power of the alternator then or just clarifying? Curious about different opinions.
Oops, the "back of the alternator" was there before and didn't mean to post it. The electric choke on my 66 has been wired to the 12v. input side of the ballast for 10 years now without issues.
 
Edelbrock doesn't want you connecting it to the + side of the coil because the coil doesn't see 12v. The + side of the coil runs through the ballast. The input side of the ballast will give you full 12v all the time.(when the key is in the "run" position)
 
Oops, the "back of the alternator" was there before and didn't mean to post it. The electric choke on my 66 has been wired to the 12v. input side of the ballast for 10 years now without issues.


Yea this is what I'm thinking and how I have my slant choke wired. Connect it to the feed side of the ballast resistor, it's always 12v and switched so that it's on whenever the key is on. No need for a relay imo
 
Yea this is what I'm thinking and how I have my slant choke wired. Connect it to the feed side of the ballast resistor, it's always 12v and switched so that it's on whenever the key is on. No need for a relay imo
Just a young mechanical engineer trying to a little extra. Makes my life easier to leave it out though.
Messing with electrical stuff makes me nervous as you cant put the magic white smoke back in.
 
Just a young mechanical engineer trying to a little extra. Makes my life easier to leave it out though.
Messing with electrical stuff makes me nervous as you cant put the magic white smoke back in.


i hear you man
 
Located the power source. Any ideas on connectors to avoid cutting up wires? Factory connector seems a little stubborn to come off
 
Located the power source. Any ideas on connectors to avoid cutting up wires? Factory connector seems a little stubborn to come off
These piggyback connectors are handy.

piggyback connector.jpg
 
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