Which alt to use ?

-

A Body 440 WHY NOT

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2019
Messages
361
Reaction score
143
Location
Jersey
Hi all,
Working on my 440 69 dart project. Getting to the altenator . I am not interested in a external regulator or originality. I am thinking about a GM 2 wire alt. I would imaging you could just not use the one wire that goes to the warning light ? Other wire goes to batt. And output naturally goes to batt. Anybody mount one of these , or is there a better way.
thanks :thumbsup:
 
The simplest wiring to understand and the most straight forward install will be a Chrysler with a one insulated field terminal, and a positive controlling regulator.
A later Chrysler with two insulated brushes will fit and work the same if one is grounded.
If the car will need more electric power (ie EFI, electric fans, etc) then look at the 'Denso' alternator setups AndyF has made brackets for. Wire to use the matching regulator. Increase the alternator and battery output wires sizes to match the demand ((ie EFI, electric fans) and the possibility of higher battery recharge currents.
 
Last edited:
Get a one wire GM . The best you'll ever buy. I run a 100 amp one wire . Shut it off before entering the water box and turn it on after the traps.

Steve 105.JPG
 
I went the Denso rout. Smaller, lighter cleaner looking and no external regulator. It documented on how to wire and they are easy to come by. I really like the Ford 3G alternators too.
 
Powermaster makes one wire stock alternators, or the newer Denso depending on how many amps you want to run.
 
Last edited:
I went the Denso rout. Smaller, lighter cleaner looking and no external regulator. It documented on how to wire and they are easy to come by. I really like the Ford 3G alternators too.
I went the Denso route too. Stock brackets , just make new spacers. (Pic is not mine) Internal regulator. 1 wire output, 1 wire sensor wire, 1 wire warning light.

Denso.jpg
 
You can use one wire with the Denso but you have options. 1- a warning lamp. 2- The sensor wire can ease back on charging if no charge is needed.
 
I dislike "one wire" for several reasons. They are more difficult to deal with with trunk mount batteries. Some of them don't excite until they are "revved" above a certain shaft RPM. And they require MUCH larger charge wires for proper operation, because the "one" wire IS the sense wire

Older GM 2 wire: Be careful. You cannot simply apply key-switched power to the excitation on the older one. This is the lamp circuit and you need at least a diode. It may work for awhile but "one day" conditions will happen that the diode trio will blow up because there is no isolation. Other than that, they worked fine

I prefer external regulator for ease of troubleshooting, but that is my preference. You must make sure the VR is grounded to "same as" battery and little drop in harness for proper charge voltage. Same for "3 wire" integral regulator.
 
Don't tell anyone, but I have a CS-130 (2-wire GM alt) on my Dart. It puts out more than enough even at idle to run everything electrical with room to spare (headlights, fuel pump, electronic ignition, heater fan, and 40 amps for the Contour fans on full).
Got it for $20 at a swapmeet, figured it was a core, Autozone tested it for free and everything met spec :)
DSCF0178.JPG
 
Don't tell anyone, but I have a CS-130 (2-wire GM alt) on my Dart. It puts out more than enough even at idle to run everything electrical with room to spare (headlights, fuel pump, electronic ignition, heater fan, and 40 amps for the Contour fans on full).
Got it for $20 at a swapmeet, figured it was a core, Autozone tested it for free and everything met spec :)
View attachment 1715595898

I run the same one , mounted down where the fuel pump would normally be ---------under the motor plate , and home made alum. brackets and adjustment rod.
Lines up perfectly w/ the stock single belt big block pulleys , back of water pump milled the thickness of the motor plate .
 
I run the Powermaster 80A Mopar style in my Satellite, troublefree. I have to use a high Amp alternator because my fan draws 50A!
Please increase wire diameter if you run high amps.
By the way, i love the Mopar look......
 
Hey OMM, There was a discussion on this awhile back. The GM alternator you are using has just one and only one wire going to it?
Yes only one wire that goes directly to the battery. On my car it goes to a remote battery connection. "Positive bulk head bought at Deka Battery". My battery is in the trunk an the bulk head is the connection for positive battery under the hood. The first picture the black wire is the only wire needed for alternator. The second picture you can see a solenoid wired in to shut the alternator off. I had to do this because I kept throwing the belt over 8000 RPM's

DSCF0167.JPG


Steve 101.JPG
 
I run the same one , mounted down where the fuel pump would normally be ---------under the motor plate , and home made alum. brackets and adjustment rod.
Lines up perfectly w/ the stock single belt big block pulleys , back of water pump milled the thickness of the motor plate .
...................
You have a big block... Me too
You have a motor plate... Me too
You have an aftermarket alternator setup... Not yet
 
-
Back
Top