68' Valiant 4 door

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Did you win the lottery ?:lol:Keep it coming ! This build gets better every day.
ha, no loto. if it was i'd have more time to work on this. just lucky to have a good job

those gv units are excellent, a lot of drag week cars seem to have them which says a lot for their strength.
neil.
they are beefy alright. i was hoping for less cutting with this but oh well.
i need you to stop by and give me some fabrication tips for covering up this hole :lol:
 
ha, no loto. if it was i'd have more time to work on this. just lucky to have a good job


they are beefy alright. i was hoping for less cutting with this but oh well.
i need you to stop by and give me some fabrication tips for covering up this hole :lol:
tunnels are easy. weld you're strip in the top first, then using a card' template make half a funnel and lay it over the front and back bit in turn drawing round it. cut out that area front and back and weld in your half funnel bits (the steel ones not the card'). :thumbsup:.
unless you knew that and i missed the sarcasm of course :rofl:
neil.
 
i know how i'm going to do it.
no sarcasm :lol:, i just like watching other people work, one of the best ways to learn :thumbsup:

dropped off the driveshaft today and going back to work tomorrow so stuck until next week
 
pic from a few weeks ago

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more GV progress. decided to use some 11g steel for the tunnel cover. it's a pain to form but the shifter mount needs to go in the same place, and if i used something lighter i'd just need to do some stiffing anyway. started with a piece of 2" pipe clamped to a bench

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then moved on to using the press. made a little adapter to get a better roll in the steel
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will finish welding it in and get the seam sealer on tomorrow
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heads up....even though I did a similar tunnel modification, check your clearance with the speed-o adapter and cable installed. A slight bit of massaging might be in order.
 
heads up....even though I did a similar tunnel modification, check your clearance with the speed-o adapter and cable installed. A slight bit of massaging might be in order.
will do. i'v had it up in position a few times already but that's one thing i haven't spacificly tested
 
GV is in. HemiDenny's advice was spot on :thankyou: fortunately pulling the unit off the tailshaft is pretty easy since i hadn't filled it yet. a little hammer work gave it plenty of room around the speedo adapter. also had to remove the crossover. it fit, but was in a perfect place to cook the GV
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finishing touches. some heat shielding and spaghetti passing for wiring. i had already decided to redo a bunch of the wiring i did previously so i just did this temp to get everything working.
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also knocked out a quick panel for the GV lights and switch. i'll be making a console to fill in from under the dash to the shifter, so these will get moved later.
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figured i should add a couple exhaust hangers too. it's no longer as rigid as tti intended :rolleyes:

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test drive tomorrow with any luck :steering:
 
sweet. What are you using to activate / deactivate the GV once the unit is powered? . They sent a switch that looks like belongs on the shifter of a big rig with mine. Shelved that and put a simple incognito on/ off toggle on the RH side at the front of the base of my drivers bucket.

you will know when the GV shifts......lets say it is pretty positive. I like to slightly let off the gas when engaging and accelerate slightly when disengaging.
 
they sent me a shifter ball with a button. ok temp. i have the parts to make a pistol grip handle and think i've figured out how i want to add a button to it.
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got it off the stands and moved but that's it. my upside down left handed welding is good as ever so it took a little longer than i hoped to finish the hangers. ended up going to work today so it will be next week before i get time to try it out.
.. Shelved that and put a simple incognito on/ off toggle on the RH side at the front of the base of my drivers bucket.
is that to shift in/out of it or to set it manual/auto? are you running the computer?
 
to shift in / out, I do not have a manual / auto mode, did not even know they have a computer?......mine is well over 15years old.
 
yup, basically lets it drop out below a certain speed, not engage until a minimum speed and keep you from thrashing it when going into reverse. you can still run it in manual or not even use the computer and just switch it on/off
 
I better look-see if they have a retro fit for the ancient ones like mine.
 
don't know if it would be worth the $$ but there's nothing about the one i have that would stop you from just wiring it in. it's just an alternate way of activating the solenoid
 
so the GV is working :thumbsup:. i added some info on this thread. i need to put some highway miles on it just driving. also doesn't feel like there's any drive line vibration, that was my biggest worry. overall i'm happy with it and glad to be moving on to other things. i need to finish a couple other projects, and i think i can get the interior back in. shooting for spring on that, i hope...:popcorn:
 
finally got some time to do a little work here. i'd been kicking around going with electric power steering and finally decided to get off the fence and just pick one. also wanted to add a tilt column so i picked up a 16" Ididit. also got a lot of good info from these threads.
Power Steering Questions
Electric steering mod
finally decided on a EPAS Performance kit that was on sale for Memorial Day. i had talked to them and they were fine with substituting the u-joints i needed for the column i already had.
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the outside of the Ididit column is 2" so it has just the right radius to weld the stock mounting tabs on with a piece of the old tube.
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sometimes i wish i had a C-body, all that space under the dash :lol:. i knew going into this, the Epas instructions are for re-using the stock column. they put the motor above the parking brake handle, which makes for a very short upper column. also, it looks like they used an early A that doesn't have the vent for their test fitting. no way i'd be able to use the vent with the motor sitting there. so the motor is going to sit just above the firewall. a bit of test fitting and a couple of cuts looks like it will fit just right.
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this motor will actually rotate up quite a bit more once i get all the mounts done.
the only thing on the car that needed cutting is the column support pieces.
i removed the lower part to give the unit some room.
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back to work tonight so this will have to sit for awhile :(
 
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