Brakes going soft after raising car?

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Oh I also checked earlier after going and seeing/picking out our new puppy. No lines are leaking and no lines appear to be crimped. So that's good :thumbsup:
 
Tomorrow. I got home later in the evening, then hung out with the family before putting the kids to bed. Im going to do it first thing in the morning.

When you do it, make sure the master cylinder is completely level. When you're done this is gonna fix your problem I believe.
 
Tomorrow. I got home later in the evening, then hung out with the family before putting the kids to bed. Im going to do it first thing in the morning.

I'm also assuming you know there is a correct order. RR, LR, RF, LF. But I would start by bleeding the master cylinder first and then at the wheels.
 
Bled the brakes... 2x. The pedal feels much better. I didnt adjust the rear shoes as I can hear them dragging and I dont think they are out of adjustment really.

My pedal doesn't "stop" after 1/2-1in of travel, but it stops after like 2.5 inches(?), pretty much where it ends up level with the gas pedal.

I think this is where it stopped before, its definitely more firm. If I double pump it the brake the pedal does stop after like 1/2 to 1in of travel though.
 
I suggest pulling rear drums, pry e brake lever back to make sure its in its proper resting point. then adjust brakes.

When bleeding, which corner(s) had air?
 
I agree with the above. If you want that "last little bit"......and I would, look at the rear. Clean and adjust them. But make sure the parking brake cables are seated good first. The rear can make a significant difference in pedal height. Really simple to do. After you get the wheels back on from cleaning everything up and seating the brake cables, simply adjust the brake shoes on each side so that there is decent enough drag on the wheels that you cannot just "spin" them freely. As you're getting close, make an adjustment, beat on the tire. Make an adjustment, beat on the tire. Pounding on the tire like that settles the shoes back down and gets all the slack out of them as you adjust them against the drum.
 
Oh I forgot pictures of the pedals. Here they are. Pedal up and pedal pressed.

20201121_143350.jpg


20201121_143405.jpg
 
I suggest pulling rear drums, pry e brake lever back to make sure its in its proper resting point. then adjust brakes.

When bleeding, which corner(s) had air?

The only one I really think I saw any bubbles come out was the front t drivers, sometimes I see bubbles when the little clear hose moves, indicatinga false positive at times... thats also the side I was lifting most, so hopefully it was the the only one with "true" air bubbles in it.
 
I agree with the above. If you want that "last little bit"......and I would, look at the rear. Clean and adjust them. But make sure the parking brake cables are seated good first. The rear can make a significant difference in pedal height. Really simple to do. After you get the wheels back on from cleaning everything up and seating the brake cables, simply adjust the brake shoes on each side so that there is decent enough drag on the wheels that you cannot just "spin" them freely. As you're getting close, make an adjustment, beat on the tire. Make an adjustment, beat on the tire. Pounding on the tire like that settles the shoes back down and gets all the slack out of them as you adjust them against the drum.

I will read through the FSM and try to get the e-brake adjusted "properly." Right now I can only slightly spin the wheels, maybe 1/5 turn when I spin them and I hear the drums dragging slightly.

I also don't feel them sticking anymore. I was going to take it for a longer drive... but my daughter wanted to play at the park...

20201121_162252.jpg
 
I will read through the FSM and try to get the e-brake adjusted "properly." Right now I can only slightly spin the wheels, maybe 1/5 turn when I spin them and I hear the drums dragging slightly.

That sounds about right.
 
Looks like a little too much for my liking.
Brake fluid is non compressible, two pumps could be excessive shoe travel.

Yea I like where it stops at the double pump spot, so maybe ill adjust the rear drums some more. When I do that I have to rebleed the brakes yes?
 
Yea I like where it stops at the double pump spot, so maybe ill adjust the rear drums some more. When I do that I have to rebleed the brakes yes?
Pull drums off first. Inspect park brake linkage.
 
Just did some hard stops from 30ish mph. I can lock up the rear tires, that always makes me happy.
 
The lever that e brake cable attatches to,kind of has a parking spot. Lever pulled even a little, pushes on the spreader bar,causing gap between shoes and wheel cylinder pins.
 
ok .... what am I looking for?

Locate the parking brake lever on the rear shoe. It's the lever the brake cable is attached to at the bottom. You're looking to make sure the cables are all the way relaxed on both sides. Would lubricate them where they go into the cable housings with a light grease.
 
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If it will help, a camera...

Haha sorry, I meant like what should I look for that would be out of the ordinary.

I see next 2 posts though, so I will check how everything is functioning when the lever is pulled. And hope that it is all working correctly.
 
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