Heads, which ones when....

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MAPS

MAPS

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Hello Experts
As always I come here open minded but broken hearted...
Yet, still hoping for correct minded advice and help.

Now I know this is going to be a result of "preference" but can there be a good way/proof of what is the better if not the best small block head one can use on an engine already producing about 350-400hp (without the bottle)
Is there an aluminium style head that if one was able to obtain no questions asked, would we all go and buy ?

Thanks.
MAPS

PS. If there is a need to know certain things please ask and I will reply.
340 Formula S Barracuda A Body, 4 speed, 4.10, Caltracs, mono leafs.
10.5 Compression, 550-575 lift cam (Solid, mechanical) 6 bbl induction.
Headers Hooker Super Comp. (Adjustable race headers)
Thanks again...
 
The Trick Flow stuff is about the best going "right now".
 
If all the “street” versions either as-cast or CNC’d out there were on a table and you had your choice to grab whatever set you wanted for free (Speedmaster, ProMAXX, Edelbrock, TF) you’d grab the Trick Flows. Now if you gotta pay, it becomes very subjective and not so clear cut.
 
Going up the price ladder;

The speed master would support that, no problem.
The as cast ProMaxx heads are a little nicer. The Edelbrock heads will do it easy as well.
The TF heads are pricey by comparison. (Nevermind the cost of the rockers!) They are a much better head.

On the cheap, the SM heads provide enough of what it takes.
 
Bucks up: trick flows, no question
Bucks down: bare cnc speedmasters, assemble as needed and as finances allow. (Buy during black friday sale. Is it still going on?)
 
But he didn't say anything about price.
 
dano said:
Isn't the 6 pack intake restrictive past ~400hp?
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Good question. Some ports have a direct straight shot downwards like a tunnel Ram while others are not and closer to a typical dual plane. I think the question is not of what HP but of what rpm.
 
Daaayyyum (aka Damn, down south) this MB is the greatest !
I love the involvement, the know how and knowledg of Mopar. No matter how it came about. No matter if the greatest engine masters were on this yrs earlier, the Dyno generations tweaking the little things or the greatest of all reasons why the answers are so dead on and correct. Trial and error.
Thank you guys, now I'll have to see how I proceed with step 2.
Regards,
MAPS

P.S. Yes, let's say we are not concerned for price right now...
 
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what are you building for ? race or kust a street car to have fun ? i had ede heads out of box made 425 hp on my old 340 with a 490 lift cam , i'm sure the TF heads would get a bit more .depends what you want to do with the car and how much $$ you want to spend
 
It's a street car basicallycv weekend warrior but I will drive it often ... On the street.

Thanks.
MAPS
 
If you read all the threads about aluminum heads and weighed the pros and cons you might just find a happy medium and decide on ProMAXX standard or maybe their CNC Shocker heads? From what I’ve read they come up: Affordable compared to the Edelbrock or TF’s, better machine work, parts, flow numbers IIRC, than the standard or CNC Speedmaster and Edelbrock yet cheaper than TF. Maybe someone will someday do up to date side by side of all them comparing casting, machining/valve job, parts, flow etc. Would be Epic!
 
I still have a few things to do before my final opinion on these basic as cast speed Masters that I picked up.

I'm trying to make them something that is a "buff and go" that does 260-270CFM.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I still have a few things to do before my final opinion on these basic as cast speed Masters that I picked up.

I'm trying to make them something that is a "buff and go" that does 260-270CFM.
Click to expand...


That’s a walk in the park with a nice valve job, a little width on the throat and pinch, and remove the Speedmaster ski jump leading into the shortturn valve job.
 
pittsburghracer said:
That’s a walk in the park with a nice valve job, a little width on the throat and pinch, and remove the Speedmaster ski jump leading into the shortturn valve job.
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I didn't remove all of that ski jump I just kind of rounded it more so, more on each side.. yeah I know... sounds like an exhaust style approach, but thats the caution as to the dogleg syndrome im used to encountering. It bounces between 255-261cfm@.500 atm.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Thats what im working towards. Stones are manipulible, but time consuming also to shape and refresh.
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I bought a set of the 30-45-60 degree cutters a couple years ago but dulled them opening my buddies Edelbrock heads from 2.02 valves to 2.08 valve by hand. I wasn’t even smart enough to use my motor drive system that I had pack away in my closet. I won’t beat up this set. They only cost around 110.00 for seven cutters but I hate wasting money.
 
I think I'm in the wrong sport...
What ever happened to.... "right out of the box" products? Must everything be so complicated, why can't you just buy a head that's already, ported, valved ( new terminology, lol) shafted and ready to go no better than this head that you just bought ?
But, noooo ! We need to find Jack the head guy, who will then show you on Joe the flow guy, how good the head is because Peter says you need to use Brad's intake manifold if you want the work Jack did to show on Joe's work sheets.
Bah Humbug... and it's Christmas.

MAPS
 
MAPS said:
I think I'm in the wrong sport...
What ever happened to.... "right out of the box" products? Must everything be so complicated, why can't you just buy a head that's already, ported, valved ( new terminology, lol) shafted and ready to go no better than this head that you just bought ?
But, noooo ! We need to find Jack the head guy, who will then show you on Joe the flow guy, how good the head is because Peter says you need to use Brad's intake manifold if you want the work Jack did to show on Joe's work sheets.
Bah Humbug... and it's Christmas.

MAPS
Click to expand...
The speedmasters will work just like a mediocre mildly ported head with 202 valves flowing in the 240s ootb.

Just with more port volume to suit a street stroker. I guess if you want to see it that way. You don't need to be as big as these heads are out of the box to flow the same numbers with a j or X or any 360 head pretty much for that matter
 
MAPS said:
I think I'm in the wrong sport...
What ever happened to.... "right out of the box" products? Must everything be so complicated, why can't you just buy a head that's already, ported, valved ( new terminology, lol) shafted and ready to go no better than this head that you just bought ?
But, noooo ! We need to find Jack the head guy, who will then show you on Joe the flow guy, how good the head is because Peter says you need to use Brad's intake manifold if you want the work Jack did to show on Joe's work sheets.
Bah Humbug... and it's Christmas.

MAPS
Click to expand...


You just missed their sale they had going on. beautiful valve job and a touch up here and there. A little more money than a regular priced speedmaster but worth it to the guys that want a ready to run product. Here's a post I did on their small block head several years ago.


Small block Mopar ProMaxx head testing
 
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