Help solve Exhaust/Suspension Interference

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Joeycurl

‘72 Demon 440
Joined
Oct 28, 2019
Messages
192
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Location
Bay Area,CA
Hi Everyone,

Just wondering if anyone had issues with clearance between the suspension arm and exhaust in a Demon with a 440. I do notice some issues while driving when the suspension is articulating a lot (e.g. bumpy roads or long bounce). Car has TTI shorties and custom exhaust. Any solutions or suggestions? also posted in suspension forum.
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You may have to put a shim in for it to clear unless someone else has any ideas.
 
Then dent it more. There is a famous engine masters episode where they took a sledge hammer to a set of headers, looking for a horsepower loss. After three sessions of bashing dents in them , they had to almost mash the tubing flat, to notice any significant power loss.
 
A bigger dent, remake the pipe correct, or go over to a muffler shop and get a pipe flange plate, two gaskets and two longer bolts.
 
Is it possible to put some type of pry bar in there and bend it some, or would that cause damage somewhere else?
 
Probably get away with it, pending the wall thickness on that pipe. Just don't put a nick in that torsion bar!
 
The actual power loss will be .00000005 % are you willing to take that kinda loss? Same power loss as driving with a 8 oz bottle of water in the cup holder. It will increase your 1/4 mile time.
 
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Sagging motor mounts, or maybe the existing ones need shimming? (to level, or un-level the motor, whatever is needed).

The motor is shimmed .25" to get clearance for the steering box. Think the route to go is having the flange and/or section of the pipe remade
 
The motor is shimmed .25" to get clearance for the steering box. Think the route to go is having the flange and/or section of the pipe remade
Why I suggested just getting a bare flange, two gaskets and two longer bolts. Easy way to space it down 1/4"
 
The biggest issue is your drag link looks like its installed backwards.
 
The body of the inner tie rods ends should be to the front of the car, with the nuts to the rear. Yours is assembled backwards
 
The body of the inner tie rods ends should be to the front of the car, with the nuts to the rear. Yours is assembled backwards
I had looked at the picture and thought he had an issue with his torsion bar hitting the exhaust, why I suggested the extra flange to space the pipe down. YES... his center link is installed backwards as are his tie rod end.

1969dartswingercleanupweek2 092.JPG
 
Dang, I'm surprised all of us missed that. We must be getting old & our attention span is waning. LOL.
 
I had looked at the picture and thought he had an issue with his torsion bar hitting the exhaust, why I suggested the extra flange to space the pipe down. YES... his center link is installed backwards as are his tie rod end.

View attachment 1715652655

wait! what!? The inner tie rod is suppose to be on the front? why would the previous owner mount it the way he did? would moving it to the frontside change the angles enough to need a alignment after?
 
wait! what!? The inner tie rod is suppose to be on the front? why would the previous owner mount it the way he did? would moving it to the frontside change the angles enough to need a alignment after?
YEP.. replicaracer caught that while we were all asleep ! Your center link is backwards, as are your inner tie rod ends. Why I posted the picture above. Center link, the "long" flat section should be on the pitman arm / drivers side and the short side on the idler arm. Then the tapered sockets will point the correct way for your tie rods to be on the front side where they belong. Definitely will need the toe in checked..
1969dartswingercleanupweek2 093.JPG
1969dartswingercleanupweek2 094.JPG
 
YEP.. replicaracer caught that while we were all asleep ! Your center link is backwards, as are your inner tie rod ends. Why I posted the picture above. Center link, the "long" flat section should be on the pitman arm / drivers side and the short side on the idler arm. Then the tapered sockets will point the correct way for your tie rods to be on the front side where they belong. Definitely will need the toe in checked..
View attachment 1715654636 View attachment 1715654637

you got an clearer pictures to post or send to me?

Also, the torsion bar is what's banging against the exhaust not the steering linkages. (primary concern) but now correcting all the links before or while addressing the torsion bar interference is bugging me.
 
Not sure what you need that is clearer. Just showing you that the "flat" area of the center link is longer on the drivers side. Look at the pictures and see that the drivers side stays fairly level for about twice the distance as the passenger side from the nuts inwards. That is the correct orientation of the center link/drag link as some call it. As for the exhaust, if it is hitting the torsion bar then I offered how to fix that in my first reply. Buy a bare exhaust flange, 2 gaskets and two longer bolts.
 
Who ran the exhaust? Take it back and make them do that head pipe over.
 
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