What is the diameter of the fresh air cowl vent opening?

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Duggie

Duggie

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When I rebuilt the heater and driver's side air boxes, I noticed some rust and holes around the openings to the air cowling. Had my *** on fire to get the car road worthy for the trip down the coast. Now I'm thinking about what I didn't think about in the early fall. Anyone have the inside diameter opening for 64 Dart?

Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays!!:thankyou:
 
Believe it or not, its the diameter of a metal coffee can. I Had to rebuild both of mine and the original fit snug around the can.

Tim
 
Duh, Those were the air dams. The opening in the lower cowl is approximately 1/8" smaller.

Tim
 
I get to show what a sheltered life I live. The little woman buys our coffee in bags from a little mom and pop shop. The closest I get to coffee is drinking it. What capacity can? Are all brands the same size?

I know. I'm the definition of slow...
 
Full disclosure, I was looking at a Mustang air b ox repair kit that is 5 1/2" in diameter. Maybe I end up going with the coffee can as a starting point.:rolleyes:
 
I used an old maxwell house can still laying around. If I still have it Ill get a measurement this evening.
 
To everyone out there that is smarter than me (which is pretty much everyone) do you think I'd be going backwards if I used the plastic Mustang repair kit that is 5 1/2" in diameter? The insert has a plastic, top hat rim that could be trimmed if need be.

I'm still pondering how to get up inside there, and stop the rust. I got that funny feeling it's going to draw a little blood when I reach in from underneath the dash. :BangHead:
 
When I replaced mine was during an upper cowl replacement. The corners on these cars are the worst because of clogged drains. Possibly a small wire brush an a mirror to inspect. Get it the best you can then coat with a good rust inhibitor.
 
Tims 66 Cuda said:
When I replaced mine was during an upper cowl replacement. The corners on these cars are the worst because of clogged drains. Possibly a small wire brush an a mirror to inspect. Get it the best you can then coat with a good rust inhibitor.
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That's what I was thinking too. Then a premade / store bought 'top hat' insert installed with some equivalent to roofing tar to seal it all up.
 
Just remember the J hooks go on top of it so take that in account. 5 3/4 is my diam.
 
I have the air boxes out. 5-7/8" OD of the driver's side resin box which fits into the cowl exit. The passenger's side climate box measures about the same (has foam sticking out). This is for a 1964 & 65 A-body.
 
Finally got inside the air cowling. Lots of holes in the low areas and the 2" lip inside the opening is toast. I've never done rust restoration before, so here goes; Thought I would use POR-15 patch and cloth mesh to patch the holes and get a couple top hats fab'd up like the cardboard mock-up below. Not sure how to attach the top hat to the cowl or how to coat as much inside the cowl as I can. Slather a brush around or pour the chemicals through the air intake and let it drain out the exit holes?
1.jpg
2.jpg
4.jpg
 
First quote from a metal fab shop in Tacoma = $520.

I gotta go lay down now. I'm feeling dizzy...
 
Duggie said:
Finally got inside the air cowling. Lots of holes in the low areas and the 2" lip inside the opening is toast. I've never done rust restoration before, so here goes; Thought I would use POR-15 patch and cloth mesh to patch the holes and get a couple top hats fab'd up like the cardboard mock-up below. Not sure how to attach the top hat to the cowl or how to coat as much inside the cowl as I can. Slather a brush around or pour the chemicals through the air intake and let it drain out the exit holes?View attachment 1715676226 View attachment 1715676227 View attachment 1715676228
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Looks like you need to do some fixin' but how are your vents? Often the door hinges are rusted and they will break if forced. Good usec ones can be found with a parts wanted thread here on FABO.
 
toolmanmike said:
Looks like you need to do some fixin' but how are your vents? Often the door hinges are rusted and they will break if forced. Good usec ones can be found with a parts wanted thread here on FABO.
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Thanks ToolMan! I rebuilt both the driver's airbox and heater box using about everything in the garage; epoxee, fiberglass, JB Weld, old cabinet hinges, bubble gum...

I'm wondering now if I can lose the brim on the top hat and just have a 2" tall X 5 7/8" dia, 16ga cylinder made, and then tack weld it in place so it wont fall out and fill the seam between the cylinder and air duct opening with one of POR-15's bondo products.
 
I'm sure the 1" or so cylinder that protrudes into the cowl pan is to prevent water from entering the vents. Whatever water gets through the cowl grates it travels past the extended tube and out the drains between the cowl and the fender. If I remember, the vent has a tube extension that goes up inside the cowl opening. It has been a long time since I had mine out so my memory is a little cloudy as to what it looks like. If you don't have a welder (or access to one) may be someone here could make you a piece like the cardboard pattern you made. I would imagine your vent looks similar to this.

drivers air vent.jpg
 
toolmanmike said:
I'm sure the 1" or so cylinder that protrudes into the cowl pan is to prevent water from entering the vents. Whatever water gets through the cowl grates it travels past the extended tube and out the drains between the cowl and the fender. If I remember, the vent has a tube extension that goes up inside the cowl opening. It has been a long time since I had mine out so my memory is a little cloudy as to what it looks like. If you don't have a welder (or access to one) may be someone here could make you a piece like the cardboard pattern you made. I would imagine your vent looks similar to this.

View attachment 1715677138
Click to expand...
Yep, that's pretty much it. Not much lip left after the foam gasket is in place.
IMG_6323.JPG


There was a 2" high lip up inside the opening, and the J hooks attached to that.
IMG_6326.JPG


A 2" tall cylinder would have to be less expensive to make than a top hat. It I could seal it properly and keep it from being bulled down by the J hooks.
 
Home stretch, and chock up another POR-15 fan! Bartered with a buddy to show me how to bend 2" wide metal around a plywood form. He also tack welded the loops in place, and I gap filled with POR paste and painted it all with POR again. This is the install looking up inside the cowl opening.
IMG_6361.JPG

Next up is to spray Eastwood Internal Frame Coating up inside the whole cowl area. And as long as the heater, left air box, radio, and glove box are out, I pulled the wiper shafts and replaced the seals and did that cool grease zert mod I read about here. That is after I get the feeling back in my fingers from taping off the air grill.
IMG_6358.JPG
 
Tims 66 Cuda said:
Nice work that was a tough one to repair.

Tim
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Thanks Tim. I tell ya man, I'm a babe in the woods when it comes to rust restoration. I'm pretty sure I couldn't keep this car on the road without this forum!
 
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