New Dana 60 Help please

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Good luck. You're in for a lot of work but at least you'll learn something and maybe get some tools in the process. If you tackle the job yourself you'll need to buy a bunch of tools that you might never use again. If you take it to someone else then they'll charge you some money to narrow it. First thing you need to do it get it all tore down and then get it clean. Might want to cut the ends off sooner rather than later just to make it easier to deal with. That rear is going to be a beast to lug around, hope you have a strong back. Do you have the right tools to pull it apart? You'll need some big stuff to get that pinion nut off of there and to pull the yoke.

Have a decent amount of tools here. Hahaha believe you me it wasn't easy to lift but I picked it up.I have a lot of big sockets and wrenches yes. What are the ends I need to cut off?
 
You need to figure out what that kit is designed for and then see if those parts will work with the rear end you have. There are different housing ends that can be used and there are different axle stand off dimensions that are used. You can't just buy random parts and expect them to work together. There are certain combinations of parts that work together but other parts don't work.

I use the Ford Torino housing ends on my cars since there are a lot of brake kits that fit the Torino housing ends. But when you use the Torino ends you have to know which bearings to use and what the hub standoff will be and lot of other details.
The kit was designed for a Dana 60 or 8 3/4 rear
 
By the time you set this rear up to fit your Duster, with the time & money you will spend, it will be cheaper to buy a brand new unit, ready to bolt in Dana 60 OR 8 3/4" rear with what ratio you want & a Sure Grip unit right from Strange Engineering or Moser. I did. With Wilwood disc brakes & all. It was under $2000 delivered. It would probably be worth it for you in the long run.
 
By the time you set this rear up to fit your Duster, with the time & money you will spend, it will be cheaper to buy a brand new unit, ready to bolt in Dana 60 OR 8 3/4" rear with what ratio you want & a Sure Grip unit right from Strange Engineering or Moser. I did. With Wilwood disc brakes & all. It was under $2000 delivered. It would probably be worth it for you in the long run.

I've gotta disagree with this. He's got a 4.10 gear in the thing, which may be what he wants. By the time he buys a powerlock (or whatever carrier he wants), bearings, housing ends, perches, yoke, etc. he's still way lower than the cost of a new S60. Plus, he'll have a new skillset and may have a little fun in the process. Some folks don't factor in the cost of their time building these cars because it's an enjoyable hobby and the building process is just as rewarding as driving the end product.
 
I think you also need to take into account that the pinion is offset for Mopar cars, not centered like Dodge trucks. I forget how much and what side, I’d have to look. But as far as having that done, I’d take it to a competent shop who builds rear ends, and have the professionals tackle that part of it.
 
I've gotta disagree with this. He's got a 4.10 gear in the thing, which may be what he wants. By the time he buys a powerlock (or whatever carrier he wants), bearings, housing ends, perches, yoke, etc. he's still way lower than the cost of a new S60. Plus, he'll have a new skillset and may have a little fun in the process. Some folks don't factor in the cost of their time building these cars because it's an enjoyable hobby and the building process is just as rewarding as driving the end product.


Im wondering how much the money would add up.

Mopar Axle Package 5 X 4 1/2" (5 X 4.5) Bolt Pattern 30/35 Spline
$300 for the housing or axel package from doctor diff unless there's a cheaper one


75.00 for the Billet Steel Housing Ends
Mopar 8 3/4" (8.75) and Dana 60 Billet Steel Housing Ends

Perches


Bearings(the instructions from my disc brake kit say this requires green bearings)


And yoke



Could someone help with completing this list



***I do enjoy working on my car myself !
But I will look into a machine shop as well just in case. Plus you only live once I wanna try to build this thang!
 
Have you ever VERIFIED what you have is a 60? I haven't seen where.

Yesterday I found 60HD on it. And a 30 Spline count when I counted it twice. I remember that site you gave to verify from
Dana 60 BOM Numbers | Dana 60 Identification It has 60HD stamped into the spot where the model number should be.

I don't know why searching for any information on these old mopars puts a smile on my face every time. Just does. Ahh it must be love.

DD3674E0-5426-4590-B8F4-5616CB052D6F.jpeg
 
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Go with 35 spline axles.

The green bearings come with the axles.

Great!

You already have the brakes.
Re:The disc brake kit from right stuff? Or the drums already on it?

What is wrong with the yoke that is on it?

Re:(Will this yoke work with my stock driveshaft? My car came with a stock one for my 7 1/4 rear end.)

If you use your gears that saves you $200.
Check!

Dana 60 Bearing Rebuild Kit
Dana 60 Bearing Rebuild Kit

Dana 60 Clutch Type Sure-Grip ("Powr-lok")
Dana 60 Clutch Type Sure-Grip ("Powr-lok")
Adding it to the budget
 
You would use the disk brake kit that you already have.

You are going to need a stouter drive shaft.

Show a picture of your yoke.
 
Your yoke is fine.
As for a drive shaft you could get one out of a b-body and have it cut down or it as matter fact you could even get one from an a body that has an 8 3/4 and use that. You'll still have to cut it down to fit. The front of the Dana sticks out further than the eight and three-quarter an the seven and a quarter not a lot just enough that you need to cut the drive shaft and fit it to the car.
 
Back to that yoke shoot me a better picture. I want to see what looks like a gouge where the U-joint caps seat.
 
Back to that yoke shoot me a better picture. I want to see what looks like a gouge where the U-joint caps seat.
Will do let me get back home in few mins.
So if I can. Get a good.deal on a driveshaft from any 70's B-Body car it'll work? Ima try to get one this week and work on that parts list for the differential. It might be a bit before I can gather it all but I'll get it all.
 
You will have to cut the b body shaft or any shaft you get to fit.
What about the shaft from the truck it came from will that mount up to my manual stock 3 speed transmission? It came from a 77 Dodge W200 or D250 pickup firetruck.
 
You may be able to cut down a D200 driveshaft. I think the W 200 has a sliding yoke on the front of the driveshaft instead of using the output shaft of the transmission. I could be wrong shoot pull it out and look at it.
 
You may be able to cut down a D200 driveshaft. I think the W 200 has a sliding yoke on the front of the driveshaft instead of using the output shaft of the transmission. I could be wrong shoot pull it out and look at it.

Just talked to the guy about the truck he's sure it's a W200 it was a 4x4.

I found a guy with a 73 Dodge charger parts car for the driveshaft will that work?
 
What kind of horsepower and transmission do you plan on for this 440? It might be easier and cheaper to go with 65-67 B-body 8-3/4 and just move the spring perches and have a new drive shaft built.
 
Just talked to the guy about the truck he's sure it's a W200 it was a 4x4.

I found a guy with a 73 Dodge charger parts car for the driveshaft will that work?

It will have to be cut to length.
The part to check is the front slip yoke to see that it works with your trans.
How much does he want for his driveshaft?
 
What kind of horsepower and transmission do you plan on for this 440? It might be easier and cheaper to go with 65-67 B-body 8-3/4 and just move the spring perches and have a new drive shaft built.


I'm late as heck my bad.i try to reply fast for all the great help.

If I can find another B body with one of those in it I'm go for it if I can afford it and sell the Dana 60HD.

I was gonna go with a stock Dodge RV 440 motor a few pop uP every now and then for good prices
 
It will have to be cut to length.
The part to check is the front slip yoke to see that it works with your trans.
How much does he want for his driveshaft?


He will haggle for it what would you think would be a good number on the high and low end ? He'll meet me in the middle. Could you give me an example of a good slip yoke picture so I can take a photo of what I have (my transmission is a 230 3 Speed manual)
 
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