My car keeps over heating when I’m driving

-
A typical street hot rod engine needs about 4000 CFM of air movement through the radiator. 2600 ain't gonna make it.
 
Ok, that means the fan you have is not enough. No airflow when sitting static. Is that a 3 or 4 row radiator? You will have better cooling and more room for a real fan with a 2 row radiator with two 1.25" rows instead of 3 or 4 rows.
RRR is bang on the money. Get a 2 row rad with 1.25" tubes. It's a matter of surface area. Bigger tubes allow for more fluid to be cooled while passing through. Most 3 row rads have 0.75” (approx) tubes, which is much less surface area.
Also,have you confirmed that your T-stat is operational? Put the front end on jack stands (this will also allow you to purge out any air in the system which may cause heat pockets), take off the rad cap, start your car, and watch the fluid in the rad for 3-10 minutes. Once it hits the temp your T-stat is designed for (160-185) the coolant should start moving. If starts moving, IMMEDIATELY replace the rad cap. If no movement happens, start with a new T-stat.
 
RRR is bang on the money. Get a 2 row rad with 1.25" tubes. It's a matter of surface area. Bigger tubes allow for more fluid to be cooled while passing through. Most 3 row rads have 0.75” (approx) tubes, which is much less surface area.
Also,have you confirmed that your T-stat is operational? Put the front end on jack stands (this will also allow you to purge out any air in the system which may cause heat pockets), take off the rad cap, start your car, and watch the fluid in the rad for 3-10 minutes. Once it hits the temp your T-stat is designed for (160-185) the coolant should start moving. If starts moving, IMMEDIATELY replace the rad cap. If no movement happens, start with a new T-stat.
So I need a new Radiator? I thought the one I have is good.
 
So I need a new Radiator? I thought the one I have is good.

You may or you may not. We have no idea what rad you are running. 2 row, 3 row, 4 row, what tube size?
Check the T-stat like I posted first. Just to rule it out. Then make sure your fan is working. On my 1970 Firebird, with a 455, the electric fan stopped working, but temps were still okay when cruising, due to airflow across the rad. At idle, temp crawled up quickly. Make sure those are both working before you move onto the rad as the culprit.
This is a fixable issue. You just need to work through the problem.
 
Unless you really do an electric fan right, you are probably better off with a mechanical fan. There is a lot of complexity with an electric fan set up, right size, proper wiring, relays, fan controller. It can be a rathole for time and money.
 
I will get the measurements on the fan I have. I ran it for a few years on low speed with no problem. I just hooked up the high speed when I installed my AC. It will blow your wig off. You have to give me a couple of days. I have a radiator similar to the shape of yours so I will show you you how I redknexk engineered it. You have to buy the connector for it it’s cheap.
 
So I need a new Radiator? I thought the one I have is good.

You could probably make what you have "work" but there are "better more correct" ways. I mentioned the radiator only because a Mopar style radiator would fit better than the GM/Chevy style radiator, plus, as I mentioned before, the two row would allow for more room for a better fan.....perhaps enough room for the Mopar clutch fan that works so well.

But yes, you could by all means make what you have work, I believe with a better fan. As wide as that core is, I would look at a dual fan setup if you stick with that particular radiator.
 
It looks as though he doesn’t have space for a mechanical fan which would be the best way to go. I agree.
 
My car keeps over heating when I’m driving. It’s a 360 with mild cam. I have a Electric fan. It’s a low profile fan because it’s a small spot. Do I need a bigger fan? Or different radiator?

View attachment 1715719901

View attachment 1715719902

View attachment 1715719903

View attachment 1715719904

View attachment 1715719905


You have alot of wasted radiator there... Look how much is outside the fan... If your car is standing still, there is no airflow through the radiator that is outside the fan diameter...

You need a good shroud and then move the fan rearward to help pull air through the whole radiator... Why not get a mechanical fan, clutch fan is good or just a non clutch may work better than the electric fan... Mechanical fans are more efficient than electric fans... the shroud should have some funnel shape to help direct the air from all ends of the radiator through the fan to pull it through... You don't want a fan shroud that's 90° from the radiator airflow, it should have some draft...

The fan should overlap the shroud by about 50% in and 50% outside of the shroud for it to work efficiently...
 
You may or you may not. We have no idea what rad you are running. 2 row, 3 row, 4 row, what tube size?
Check the T-stat like I posted first. Just to rule it out. Then make sure your fan is working. On my 1970 Firebird, with a 455, the electric fan stopped working, but temps were still okay when cruising, due to airflow across the rad. At idle, temp crawled up quickly. Make sure those are both working before you move onto the rad as the culprit.
This is a fixable issue. You just need to work through the problem.

Yes, once yet again we are faced with pulling answers like teeth.
 
It’s a 5071p northern radiator from 2010. I don’t know too much about it.

3EEC8D07-AE46-4112-A145-84E9CDEDED2F.jpeg


13E8A50A-9B49-4FD2-91F1-FAE5EC18C89C.jpeg
 
You may or you may not. We have no idea what rad you are running. 2 row, 3 row, 4 row, what tube size?
Check the T-stat like I posted first. Just to rule it out. Then make sure your fan is working. On my 1970 Firebird, with a 455, the electric fan stopped working, but temps were still okay when cruising, due to airflow across the rad. At idle, temp crawled up quickly. Make sure those are both working before you move onto the rad as the culprit.
This is a fixable issue. You just need to work through the problem.
I will try that. Thanks
 
Boiling when parked/after shutting off engine tells me it is in fact running borderline hot. and fan control isnt in live battery circuit. So heat soak pushes it over the boiling point.

Rad should cool, but fan looks inadequete.
 
-
Back
Top