Steering column rebuild 67 barracuda

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clementine

clementine

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Hello FABO!
I have read a few threads on column rebuild and feel pretty good about it. When I go to source a "kit" or the bearing and lower plastic jobby thingamadobopper I went to CJ steering. It seems he has been suffering from a medical issue. So....my question is for this seemingly one year only diameter steering column (a bit more diameter?) is the bearing and lower plastic job different? If not Ill just Ebay the parts or at least have confidence that when Im buying parts that 67-9 are the same.

Sorry if this has been covered,
THANKS FABO!

David

1967 barracuda 4 speed.
 
Call Jim Fillmore @ Detroit Muscle Technologies.
He has had some issues with suppliers during this plandemic, but he can steer you in the right direction
 
"he can steer you in the right direction"
Ah HA! I see what you did there....very nice.

Will do friend
Thank you!
 
Mattax said:
There is some info on the '67 steering column both here at FABO and in the master technician's conference.
the Imperial club website isn't connecting but fortunately mymopar is.
https://mymopar.com/browse-mtsc-by-model-year-1967/
Download the pdf
Click to expand...


Hey Mattax!
I still have yet to track down a lower bearing for a 67 steering column. I bought the upper from DMT, but his second suggestion
(68 69 Mopar Charger Roadrunner Superbee Coronet Dart Steering Column Bearing NEW | eBay)...proved to be too small. I believe that the I.D. of steering column housing is +/-2.25" where the white plastic slides in. I feel like this must be a common part that needs fixing. Am I up against the "one year only" syndrome?

thank you for your time FABO!
 
Ok so I have perused the threads and cannot find anything on this. The lower bearing on most columns has a couple of solutions I saw the best being the ER 16 bearing although I do not know enough to navigate whether the engineers are using the OEM plastic piece as a failure point and the ER16 bearing is pretty rigid....but looks like it would work great. the problem is ...I have a 67 column . Seems like instead of a 52 mm OD bearing I need a 57.15 +/- OD with the 1 inch hole. Havent found one yet. Before I go hunting further....Does anyone know where to get a lower bearing for a 67 steering column? I can use the ER16 and make a bushing.....but Im checking first.

THANKS FABO!
 
Well, this is a pickle. It is super annoying, when you are hunting for some seemingly simple part, that can derail your progress.

The bearing I used on my 70 Duster is the 2" OD, 1"ID. I'm guessing it's the ER 16 that you made reference to, which won't work for you.
IMG_20210418_181801647.jpg
Screenshot_20210418-203708.png


Have you tried GOOGLE for a 2.25" OD, 1" ID, snap ring bearing?
Is there a Fastenal near you?
 
jonn6464 said:
Well, this is a pickle. It is super annoying, when you are hunting for some seemingly simple part, that can derail your progress.

The bearing I used on my 70 Duster is the 2" OD, 1"ID. I'm guessing it's the ER 16 that you made reference to, which won't work for you.View attachment 1715725483 View attachment 1715725484

Have you tried GOOGLE for a 2.25" OD, 1" ID, snap ring bearing?
Is there a Fastenal near you?
Click to expand...

Yup! Thats the same as the ER16. I need 2.25" OD as far as I can tell.

I have .....been getting lost in timken pdf files yada yada yada....decided to just ask....Seems like everything has been covered on this site.

Thanks for the response though...appreciated.
 
I know it was a Timken MB ER16. I havent dug into the column yet. I'll get bearing dimensions tomorrow if need be.
 
4spdragtop said:
Not sure if you saw this
How To Replace your Lower Column Bearing: Better and Cheaper!!!
Click to expand...

I did. That's what put me on the search for a similar bearing that had an outside diameter of 2.25" or 57.15 mm. I have yet to come up with a candidate. Does that timken mb er16 have that OD? I dont see the OD measurement there. I think the OD is 52mm, which leads me to making a sleeve to accept the smaller size. No biggie, just wondering what other 67 owners are doing to replace this. Also, REDFISH mentions the failure point being engineered into the column in one of the threads and Im not sure if replacing this part with a more sturdy part is what he was saying to avoid. Learnin....thanks for the help. I do try to not create unnecessary threads, but I havent seen this addressed in its entirety.

Thanks for the help
 
Look through the 'discussion' tab in that 'how to'. I thought that was where someone pointed out or linked to information on the '67 columns.
I can look through my notes and files later in the week.
 
I can read it. But thanks for the hint on hitting the 'discussion' tab. I thought it was a bit short winded for all ya'all.:lol:
 
Mattax said:
Look through the 'discussion' tab in that 'how to'. I thought that was where someone pointed out or linked to information on the '67 columns.
I can look through my notes and files later in the week.
Click to expand...

Ya Its in there. the 67 column starts to come up in conversation around post .....67....then like post 75.....and then a couple more....good read.... great inginuity. Some guys added a swivel right before the steering box. There was talk of binding and stuff that Ill read later but I forgot my glasses and Im at work now.

Thanks Mattax! ......again:thumbsup:
 
Ok, so Im getting back into getting this column together again and I am at this point. I have got the ER16 bearing with a 1" ID and used a bronze bushing to take up the OD difference, for the 67 larger housing. I had to split the bushing, as shown, to get it all to slide together. I may or may not JB weld the void.
20211205_093541.jpg


The next problem is at the other end of the schtick where the two housings mate. They have these square headed bolts that pass between the two housing that draw them together. They are relying on the square head to catch the square hole in the bottom housing upon tightening.
20211205_093557_001.jpg
20211205_085126.jpg
20211205_085112.jpg


The problem is that the room between the upper housing and the nut doesnt allow for even a thin walled socket to fit around the lock nut... that promotes the bolt to "****" essentially drawing it away from the square hole in the bottom housing that it is supposed to catch. I must be missing something. Im to the point that I may make a "J" bolt with a tall nut that will not extend above the surface that the turn signal plastic guy mounts to but high enough to get some action on it.
20211205_084438.jpg
20211205_084921.jpg


If I could draw up the bolt catching the lower housing by using my fingers then a couple of quarter turns might get it tight enough, but the 'lock nut' prevents this as it 'catches' right at the top of the threads, as designed. Im thinking a regular nut utilizing 'finger tight first' method then some wicking lock-tite.

What do you think???

Thanks FABO!!
 
After some more attempts.........Is it possible that the square headed bolt is a friction piece and is supposed to be 'cocked'? kind of a 'jam it up' situation? I have looked at the factory manual but to no avail.


The service manual says that its 'inch lbs' of tightness so it doesnt take much but I question weather its supposed to hook the hole or act as a 'jam'.
 
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Ok. so after a couple more attempts to make the stock bolts that hold the upper column 'bell' together, I made some that seem to work!
20211205_121233.jpg

Original on the left this pic
20211205_121240.jpg


Original on right on this pic.

Square headed 1/4" x 20 or 24 offset.....done!
they seemed to give me less headache and grabbed the square holes they seemed to line up with in the lower piece so....
There it is!!

Next need to find the plastic spacers that hold the mid shaft tube in place. They go in the "netted" looking area of the outside tube. All sources to be revealed by the all knowing FABO.....Ya?
 
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I'm just curious...why are you adding a bearing at the lower column location? I'm at a similar quandary on my 71 Demon column that does not have one but has the external wire clip holding nothing. (This is an auto trans floor shift car/column.) My column is roughly 2" id with the 1" shaft so I likely could get a bearing in there. Just not sure why it may be needed since the coupling acts to support the shaft and provide for any misalignment at the lower end.
 
The plastic 'bearing' holds the inner tube inside the outer column tube. Plastic slides in the end of the outer tube, where you have your brass piece, and is retained by 1 bolt.
Then, the inner tube slides into the plastic bearing.

With the bearing the way you have it, you can't put the plastic bearing in, and the inner tube has no support, which unlike later columns, it needs.
The inner tube is smaller at the bottom, where it slides into the plastic, where your brass piece is located.

The steel bearing is inserted over the inner shaft, (before anything else unless you press the joint pin out at the bottom), then into the plastic bearing.

The bearing 'kit' used to just contain the actual steel ball bearings and something else, I don't recall exactly, but you had to rebuild the steel bearing.

It's all a complete waste of time and money, imo. In my case, the inner shaft was reduced in diameter where the plastic/metal bearing was, wasted itself, and wore away the shaft.
Also, the inner tube was worn and cracked on the end.

After much time searching for a shaft, trying to get that stupid plastic bearing via email only, no phone # or website ordering, and this was a few years ago, trying to find a bearing that fit, and realizing even if I did I'd be eliminating the ability to put a plastic bearing between the 2 tubes, I gave up.

I forked over a chunk of change, called Norm's, and had a completely rebuilt and painted 68 column sent over.

Bolts right up to my 67 no problem, looks identical except for the lower bearing, if you know what to look for, and it's a work of art.

I have a thread or two on my debacle.

He offered up a 67 column, same price, no thank you.
 
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Yeah, so my situation is not recommended by me in any way. Im just charging it. Shaft needs to be centered and the bearing serves that purpose really well and more sturdy than what I see out there for replacement. It doesnt seem like it will affect the collapse in any way.

Next hurdle....how to stabilize inner tube. I have ordered the 'shift tube supports' for a 68 and up column shift unit. Will it work? dunno. Will I have to take the column back apart and get it figgerd? Probably....but maybe not. Ill have 50-100 bucks into seals bearings and stuff, but Ill get it and Im getting pretty good at the assembly and disassembly.

I appreciate all the input and possible pitfalls. I dont think of everything, and your experience on this build has helped me tremendously.

For instance @matthon mentioned that the inner tube is centered and supported by the ring I took off. I may have to put that puppy back on. The lower part of the column is loosely put together so no problem! I have learned that generally stuff has to be mocked up, torn down and put back together. Basically you dont build a car, you build a car twice but only end up with one car. Just have to remember to tighten all those bolts the second time through:rolleyes:

THANKS FABO!!!
 
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