400 into 65 valiant

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Glad this popped back up. I'm actually pullin the 170 out of Vixen today in fact. Not going to fit the 400 yet...even though I found a bellhousing that will work. I'm just not ready to sit the car down "that long" yet. Maybe when the weather craps back up towards the end of the year I'll look at it then.

It's funny too......I found a bellhousing that will work from the same kinda car it appears the exhaust manifolds will work form. A C body. Yup. Get this. I found a C body THREE SPEED specific big block bellhousing. Small 10.5" clutch, small 4.3 diameter center hole. A C body with a big block and a three speed. Was it a three on the tree or floor shifted three speed? Who knows? But isn't that unusual to think about?

And for the record, it's an early C body bellhousing from like a 65 C body. That had the A745 three speed. I got the guy to measure the bolt pattern and it was the same as the later A230, so I pulled the trigger and it's out in the shop all cleaned and painted. By the time I get around to fitment, I'll have found a bunch of cool stuff out about this swap.
 
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Yes, I expect exhaust clearance to be an issue so I will definitely take that into consideration.

The incline is taken with the car on stands, level as far as I can determine. It’s not easy to find a level surface I’m the car. I’ve used the top of the door side, the bottom of the window opening.

I did think of something, I will try to determine the side to side offset of the trans cross member bolt hole for the trans mount tomorrow.

One other issue with putting it that far to the pass side is centerlink/idler arm clearance to the oil pan. Mine comes VERY close at full lock. You may want to bolt up the steering linkage to make sure it clears

Honestly, I would just bolt the trans up, whatever manifolds/headers you intend to run, and steering linkage, and lock the engine in wherever it clears everything. Height-wise, put it as low as you can without having clearance issues with the centerlink/idler arm. Done and done

***EDIT*** - Also, make sure you bolt up an oil pump. Mine comes pretty close the DS K-member.
 
Yes, I expect exhaust clearance to be an issue so I will definitely take that into consideration.

The incline is taken with the car on stands, level as far as I can determine. It’s not easy to find a level surface I’m the car. I’ve used the top of the door side, the bottom of the window opening.

I did think of something, I will try to determine the side to side offset of the trans cross member bolt hole for the trans mount tomorrow.

make sure you allow for any intended body rake when at ride height on it's wheels. not many cars sit perfectly level front to back and if you plan the car to be slightly nose down that'll reduce the 3 degrees you have set up. set the body at the rake it'll ride at and most intakes set the carb mounting pad level while setting the motor at a 3-5 degree angle.
neil.
 
One other issue with putting it that far to the pass side is centerlink/idler arm clearance to the oil pan. Mine comes VERY close at full lock. You may want to bolt up the steering linkage to make sure it clears

Honestly, I would just bolt the trans up, whatever manifolds/headers you intend to run, and steering linkage, and lock the engine in wherever it clears everything. Height-wise, put it as low as you can without having clearance issues with the centerlink/idler arm. Done and done

***EDIT*** - Also, make sure you bolt up an oil pump. Mine comes pretty close the DS K-member.
Wise words. I’ll get the oil pan and pump on and go from there.

Thanks a bunch!
 
make sure you allow for any intended body rake when at ride height on it's wheels. not many cars sit perfectly level front to back and if you plan the car to be slightly nose down that'll reduce the 3 degrees you have set up. set the body at the rake it'll ride at and most intakes set the carb mounting pad level while setting the motor at a 3-5 degree angle.
neil.
Great input! I’ll see what the angle on my Team G intake is. Thanks!
 
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